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And it is accumulative, once in the body it accumulates until it becomes a lethal dose- does your Mother In Law like sweet coffee?
Re-wedging an Axe, bad idea?
- Thread starter klaus von herten
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simonmeridew
ArboristSite Lurker
Back to Ethylene Glycol, I did that trick once, worked well for a while, but one day the head broke right off, with the handle plug still inside the head.. Come to find out Ethylene glycol is hydroscopic, absorbs water and the water still makes wood rot.WorkekedAnd it is accumulative, once in the body it accumulates until it becomes a lethal dose- does your Mother In Law like sweet coffee?
Golf club shaft adhesive must also be hydroscopic,,
I have a neighbor that golfs,, it seems like EVERY time he misses a shot that he thinks he should have made,,
the water attracts that club,, usually into the deep end of the golf course pond........
YEP, the adhesive just attracts the club to the water,,,,,,,,,
Cricket
ArboristSite Operative
Behind me and off to the left. I didn't move a muscle, because I had no clue what was going to qualify as a safe place and what wouldn't. Major cringe.Where did the ax head end up?
Way back in high school shop class, I vaguely remember them saying that a new handle should be soaked in something (Boiled Linseed Oil?) but memory fails me. Maybe it was.
Hello buddy,Howdy all! Hope you are having a blessed Easter Week!
I have a question regarding the practice of re-wedging an axe that had become loose?
I inherited a True American USA Michigan-style axe from my pop, and it’s sat in my Phoenix garage for 5 summers. Don’t know too much about these axes but apparently you can still buy them.
As you might imagine, nearly all of the moisture has been driven out of the wood and the axe head is now a little loose.
The handle looks like it’s in great shape there are no cracks to be found anywhere that I can see.
I have driven in another wedge closer to the front where it seems like it had been a little loose. Now it’s tight. The kerf has seemed to have moved a bit downwards, however. Is this a false sense of security, or is this generally good to go?
I have another handle a 34 inch one, that I just received but I might let it stay in the garage for a couple summers so this doesn’t happen again.
What would you guys personally do? Rehandle?
Thanks for your responses.
Sand the handle first to remove the varnish and go with 50/50 terps and boiled linseed. Could put a tiny bit of heat on the handle and scorched grain will really pop and that additional heat will really such in that 50/50 mix. Keep treating everyday until the handle will take no more. Best treatment for a lovely handle.
Please explain this. What conditions would cause this? And what alternative would a person use then on axe handle wood if not boiled linseed oil?
rags, dust, paper towels, clothing with boiled linseed oil can self ignite. Look around on google for more information.
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True- but there has to be a more specific set of circumstances for it to happen.
A bit of linseed oil on the bench, or a flat rag laying over a shelf won't burn the house down, or an oiled tool handle suddenly burst into flames.
Throw an oil soaked bunched up rag in a trash bin, dump the contents of the table saw dust collector on top....... and you better have an extinguisher handy!
Bearcat22lr
just some guy that burns wood
oil deck stain rags ignited in the back of my dads truck on a hot summer day while driving. Friends apt burned down, his neighbors were refinishing furniture with linseed oil... rags ignited.
So is that why I see most people applying boiled linseed oil to axe handles with either their hands and gloves on instead of a rag? Makes sense now.
Ahhh gotcha. So there are a certain set of circumstances that would lead to a combustible situation. Got it. Thanks!!!
Never knew that. I'll google some of these instances. Thanks!!!
Surface area, the linseed oil is exposed to oxygen causing rapid oxidization and thermal breakdown. It self heats up to the point of ignition. When I stain or reapply oil to axe handles I now use paper towels or just a rubber glove then hit it with water to rinse it or throw it into a metal bucket in the open or fire pit.
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Yeah, but you have to compact/condense it or bury it in dry woodchips to get the best effect, seldom with an oily rag laying flat combust alone, or spilt oil on a bench- a scrunched up well soaked rag- more likely, one in a trash can with wood shaving dumped on top- almost a certainty and how we used to do controlled panic teaching to apprentice carpenters.
Had a rag catch on fire this year, was well squeezed out and thrown on sandy ground mostly spread out. I'm also under the impression it becomes more volatile with age when the bottle is opened to only use a small amount then reclosed for 6 months to sit in a hot shed or garage.
Yup, just don't clench your fists or they will ignite!
But seriously, I know of two housefires near me caused by rags with linseed oil on them. At one of them at least, the whole place burned down and they lost everything.
I prefer the handle to protrude past the head, which is then held on by 1) the friction fit of the head onto a gradually tapering handle (ie not sitting on a ledge), 2) the spreading apart of the handle when the wooden wedge is driven in, and 3) the end of the handle 'mushrooming' over the eye when this is done. A metal wedge is seldom needed when you do this.
Charlie Coyote
ArboristSite Member
Uh-huh. Looks like someone giving advice here from doing. Why though is it so many of little or no experience seem to pipe up so quickly in such greater numbers?
