Rebuilding a Stihl 045 super

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Roygor

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Newbie to the site. My father-in-law was given an 045 super that had been in a flood, he took most of it apart and cleaned it and then lost interest. So here is where I come in. I had been thinking of purchasing a chainsaw to clear some trees off of some property that I recently bought. So when he asked me if I wanted it, I jumped. I was raised on a farm and had cut fire wood, but I'm not a timber man and have no chainsaw rebuild experience. But being farmed raised, you need to jump in and repair things when they break, so not new to wrenching and figuring it out. I've been told that the 045 is a later model, it has a SEM ignition system. So here is what I've done so far: Took the jug off, cleaned and re-honed, washed out and cleaned crank case, install new Carber piston rings and upper rod bearing, replace crank seal on flywheel side, replaced ignition due to damage to the original, cleaned fuel tank, replaced fuel pick up filter, replaced impulse hose, put a pressure / vacuum test on the crankcase and cylinder, rebuilt carburetor and new spark plug. It's got good blue spark and it will fire for about 3 to 5 seconds and than back fires and blows the muffler apart. I've noticed that there is excessive gas at the back of the carburetor, in the cylinder and the exhaust port. So I've been adjusting diaphragm control arm to try and correct the gas flooding issue with no success. Also, don't know a lot about magnetos, but do all four magnets on the fly wheel need to have a charge, only two on one side are magnetic?
Does anyone have any ideas on going forward to get this cool old saw running? I couldn't wait on myself to finish this rebuild, so I could cut my trees on the new property, so bought a 064 from a friend that he just rebuilt.
 
I think on your flywheel the 2 besides 2 magnetic are just weight for counter balance.
You must have the correct flywheel for the particular ignition.
I was wondering if there is any chance the piston could be on backwards ?
Hopefully u didn't get to aggressive with the hone and get through the plating?
 
I had a friend who is a husky addict and has rebuilt a few stihls along the way. Helped me with the hone work and the position install. There was an arrow on the top of the position and we pointed it towards the muffler. It only has one key slot and I lined the marks on the module to the one on the case. I'm going to take the carb apart tomorrow and try cleaning the needle port. I seen that on the post "rebuilding a stihl 024".IMAG0104.jpg IMAG0103.jpg IMAG0107.jpg IMAG0116.jpg IMAG0110.jpg IMAG0104.jpg
 
A while back, a guy I work with had an FS55 Sthil trimmer, that had a bad coil. He ordered a cheapie from eBay and it was doing the same thing. He sent it back and they told him they sent the wrong one, sent another and it was fine. So my take is that either the coil is faulty or it's somehow out of time.
 
Where can you get crankshaft bearings for the 045/056's? My dad has an old 056 that runs nice and strong but has a bad crank bearing on at least one side and eBay has nothing and Stihl dealer claims they don't make factory replacements for these models?!?!
 
I got a used ignition from cheapchainsawparts.com It's about 80 miles away. Everything matches,except where it bolts to the case. The one I took out has 1/4" stand offs, the one I put in is flat. The flywheel seal, I got from an old local dealership, they still has some old new stock. I did see some after market on a web site in Germany when I typed in stihl 056 sem ignition. Good luck.
 
Not neccessarly saying but I would suspect the used ignition unless you knew for sure it worked at removal. They may of just checked it for spark and assumed it was usable. Do some checking if u haven't and make sure ignition and flywheel match. Any chance some one has a known working ignition system u can try ?
 
Here is the new one installed. You maybe right Bushwhacker. And I want to thank everyone for their input. But believe me, these things are like gold. I've been late on a half dozen or so and so I will keep looking and buy one just for a back up in the future. I'm going to try a few carb things that have been suggested and buy an in line spark tester. If that doesn't work, I guess I will have to concede and see if a friend wants to get it running.
 

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Also..The lever in your carb should be adjusted exactly like this in the picture.
View attachment 509401

Depending on the carb kit, the metering diaphragm center post may be the notched version vs. solid button and need to slide into the fork of the metering lever for proper metering function.

Here is a link to some PDF material on the 1115 series that may prove helpful. Depending on browser, add ons, etc., the files may or may not directly open online, but all should be downloadable.

https://drive.google.com/folderview...pGZVV1OFNYdGptSVJhUmNVWkJ0SWlkYTg&usp=sharing
 
Depending on the carb kit, the metering diaphragm center post may be the notched version vs. solid button and need to slide into the fork of the metering lever for proper metering function.
The setting for the metering lever still stays the same. Hold each diaphragm side by side and you'll see that they both share the same measurement on the little tab that presses the lever. I usually file that little notch off because sometimes it prevents the lever from traveling all the way down.
 
The old one that I took out was of the notch style, the new kit that I installed has the flat button style. Before I installed it, I asked a friend if it mattered and he said no, as long as the button contacting the metering rod is the same height. I took the carburetor all apart again and I'm going over it to see if I've missed anything. The only thing I did not replace with the kit was the valve jet plug, so I may do that and make sure nothing is plugging the jet. I think I will buy a new kit, I've had this one apart 4 times.
 

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