Rebuilding Stihl 360

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I've used an impact to take off hundreds of clutches and FW's with nary a problem. What I don't use is a piston stop. I've seen many pics of the failed use of a piston stop on AS.

I do cinch the FW nut and clutch down before hitting it with the impact. I did shear a FW key because I hit the impact bf finger tightening the nut. My mistake...and one I won't repeat. Regardless, all I had to do was to line up the FW and tighten it up. The key is just there for alignment, it shouldn't be relied upon to hold the FW in place. Heck, I sheared a key a couple of weeks ago, and the FW was properly installed.

Faster goes to an impact.
Cheaper- well an impact and compressor is more expensive, but most of us have both. The cost of pistons broken from the use of stops adds up quickly.
Smarter - well, looking at the number of piston with holed tops vs the number of cranks I've seen from using and impact leads me to believe there is less risk of damage from an impact. I would be leary of using an impact on a 066 though.
 
Does the bearing have to be removed to replace the seals?


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No, the seal can be pulled from the "outside". There is a specific Stihl seal puller, but they're expensive. You can use a drywall screw to carefully puncture the metal part of the seal (I make a starter hole with an awl) and get the screw started into the seal. Do this on both sides, then use pliers to pull on the screws to pull the seal out. Be careful not to go in to far with the screw and hit the bearings.

The other way is to cut a slot into the end of a flat head screwdriver to make a hook. Then push the hook into the seal and grab the edge and pull.

You can lightly tap the seals down to make sure they are broken free before you start to pull.
 
No, the seal can be pulled from the "outside". There is a specific Stihl seal puller, but they're expensive. You can use a drywall screw to carefully puncture the metal part of the seal (I make a starter hole with an awl) and get the screw started into the seal. Do this on both sides, then use pliers to pull on the screws to pull the seal out. Be careful not to go in to far with the screw and hit the bearings.

The other way is to cut a slot into the end of a flat head screwdriver to make a hook. Then push the hook into the seal and grab the edge and pull.

You can lightly tap the seals down to make sure they are broken free before you start to pull.

I'm thinking the other easy way to do it is to ask a Stihl dealer if they didn't mind helping me out to pull the seals if I bought the seals from them. In northern NY in the dead of winter most dealers aren't too busy. But, I need the flywheel off first is all.
 
The sthil flywheel puller is about $20, fits a lot of their saws.

My favorite dealer will pull and install seals on a CLEAN saw with the clutch and flywheel off for $20.

Make sure your crank bearings are OK before you do the seals.
 
stihl pn# is 1110 890 4500 for that flywheel puller...if theres a dealer out there getting 200 bucks for those flywheel pullers that's quite a nice margin!!! I don't think his 20 dollar quote was that far off in all honesty.
 
stihl pn# is 1110 890 4500 for that flywheel puller...if theres a dealer out there getting 200 bucks for those flywheel pullers that's quite a nice margin!!! I don't think his 20 dollar quote was that far off in all honesty.
An aftermarket "Stihl" flywheel puller is around 20 bucks. The Stihl brand puller is a little more.

Randy, I think you're thinking of the Stihl seal puller, which I think is around $200.

If you're taking the saw to a dealer to pull the seals, have them pull the flywheel too, it literally takes 45 seconds with the puller.
 
An aftermarket "Stihl" flywheel puller is around 20 bucks. The Stihl brand puller is a little more.....

.

nah...if your paying more than 20 bucks even for the stihl brand flywheel puller (the number i gave) then youre getting juiced...and im not trying to be an argumentative know-it-all jerkface poopy pants, just lettin folks know...carry on with the rebuild thread
 
Yep... the seal puller is around $200, flywheel puller is around $20... needed cup #2 this morning.

If he's the only dealer, charge anything he wants really. There are several dealers here that are horrible... The one guy who isn't so bad charges $90 an hour shop rate because he can and they pay! The line is out the door waiting for "his service" because he's not a total jerk, just somewhat of a jerk. Won't hesitate to tell you your welcome to go down the street, there reply is instantaneous... %&*& NO!
 
Yep... the seal puller is around $200, flywheel puller is around $20... needed cup #2 this morning.

If he's the only dealer, charge anything he wants really. There are several dealers here that are horrible... The one guy who isn't so bad charges $90 an hour shop rate because he can and they pay! The line is out the door waiting for "his service" because he's not a total jerk, just somewhat of a jerk. Won't hesitate to tell you your welcome to go down the street, there reply is instantaneous... %&*& NO!

Sounds like Tom T.!!!
 
They should make a Large/Small Stihl flywheel puller like this. One on each side. Then I wouldn't have to have two separate pullers in my drawer. I think I'll send an email to Heartland and suggest that.
 
Where might one obtain the schematics for the 036 & the 046 ? My local dealer refuses to install the aftermarket parts I bought on eBay. The lawnmower shop a few blocks from my place can install them, but wants the exploded view.

Is it just a coincidence that the rebuild cost is the same as replacement cost ?
 
Where might one obtain the schematics for the 036 & the 046 ? My local dealer refuses to install the aftermarket parts I bought on eBay. The lawnmower shop a few blocks from my place can install them, but wants the exploded view.

Is it just a coincidence that the rebuild cost is the same as replacement cost ?
Try the beg for manuals thread in the sticky's
No, seems lots of shops are not into repair like they used to be. Truly sad, since that is really where the business is made.
 

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