Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

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In my limited experience the paint on Remington saws will peel & flake if you look at them the wrong way :bang:, but that's something I've learned to live with. It strikes me as kind of odd since at one time DuPont made very durable automotive paint. Many years ago one of my history teachers told us that in the 1950s there was a 'monoply' lawsuit involving DuPont and GM; I don't know the details.

I think the saws got the reject paint from Dupont. Stuff Dupont didn't dare put on the market..................................................................................
 
The second time I hit send I caught the approval message ....

I got the saw ... its nice ... I would say very low usage the sprocket just barely has an impression in it and the paint is still mostly on the stop switch ... and of course removing the previously mentioned a/c cover didn't help it run better ... I suspect it is a flooding carb .. Might get to play with it by the weekend ... I wouldn't want to pull on it without the compression release for very long ... and I need to pull the starter cover and see why it slips when it wants to ... bar has zero wear and the 404 chain is like new ... hell the chain guide plates aren't even scratched... so we shall see so far I think I did ok , Ralph

The Fairbanks-Morse starter dogs need a friction washer on each side of the cross bar. Do Not Oil them. A dab of white lithium or bearing grease on the pulley spindle is all it needs. Sharpen with a file the engagement dogs to a narrow edge but do not make them shorter. Do not bend on the dogs.

Serviced and adjusted correctly, the starter dogs will engage in about 1/4 turn of the recoil pulley.
 
Sl-9 clutch and carb gasket needed

I appologize for the thread jump but I dont leave the main page enough to remember how to do it correctly.
I have an SL-9 that needs a clutch and carb mounting gasket and was hopeing someone could steer me in the right direction. The chain turnes all the time as it did for many years before my BIL gave it to me.I think the clutch may be in need of replacing I dont really need new just a functioning one.
As for the Carb gasket mine leaks gas badly back into the air box.I have had the carb off to rebuild it and I think I damaged it taking it off as I remember it.Or should I attempt to make one ? But all that would be a mute point without a clutch. I worked on this saw a year or so ago and would like to get it going.I found a piston on e-bay and bought seals from a bearing supply house, now I would like to finish it up. I have posted this on the main page about a week ago but no responces so this is my last hope I guess.
Thanks a lot and I am sorry that I jumped in I hate it when someone does that to an on going thread while people are trying to help with another issue. If you can tell me the right way to have done this I will make a note of it someplace.Thanks Jeff.
 
I appologize for the thread jump but I dont leave the main page enough to remember how to do it correctly.
I have an SL-9 that needs a clutch and carb mounting gasket and was hopeing someone could steer me in the right direction. The chain turnes all the time as it did for many years before my BIL gave it to me.I think the clutch may be in need of replacing I dont really need new just a functioning one.
As for the Carb gasket mine leaks gas badly back into the air box.I have had the carb off to rebuild it and I think I damaged it taking it off as I remember it.Or should I attempt to make one ? But all that would be a mute point without a clutch. I worked on this saw a year or so ago and would like to get it going.I found a piston on e-bay and bought seals from a bearing supply house, now I would like to finish it up. I have posted this on the main page about a week ago but no responces so this is my last hope I guess.
Thanks a lot and I am sorry that I jumped in I hate it when someone does that to an on going thread while people are trying to help with another issue. If you can tell me the right way to have done this I will make a note of it someplace.Thanks Jeff.

This is an on-going general Remington/Mall thread. Post away.:popcorn:

Post a pic. of the clutch. I have two junk Wards/Remy SL-9 types but want to make shure. You're welcome to one for postage.


Stop at your friendly, local auto parts store and buy a roll of Felpro gasket material. With a hobby knief, leather punch, hole punch and scissors you can make most any gasket. For holes too small for the scissors, you use a hole punch and nibble your way around the circle.
 
This is an on-going general Remington/Mall thread. Post away.:popcorn:

Post a pic. of the clutch. I have two junk Wards/Remy SL-9 types but want to make shure. You're welcome to one for postage.


Stop at your friendly, local auto parts store and buy a roll of Felpro gasket material. With a hobby knief, leather punch, hole punch and scissors you can make most any gasket. For holes too small for the scissors, you use a hole punch and nibble your way around the circle.

Thanks,.. I will take a picture for you.I am busy today I am having a 50th birthday party for my wife so maybe tomorrow. Gasket making,...Yea I thought that may be the best way. I have several types of fel-pro I have made a bunch of gaskets before. I too use paper punchs I have a reg size and a very small one as well. I will do that. send ya a photo as soon as I get a chance Thanks Jeff.
 
SL-9 clutch pictures

I will try to pm you with the pictures as my Icons are not working ? I have to hover over the blank ? boxs to see what each box allows me to do.And even then they will not let me use them? If they are like this in the pm I will leave you my e-mail and if you can send me yours I will send them that way. Jeff
 
SL-9, 10, 14 & 16 clutch.

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You need just the clutch or some of the attendent parts (large washer, sprocket drum, so forth)?

The drum is a 1/4" x 9 tooth.

Yours for postage. Just P.M. your address.

Carl.
 
I got to run a PL-7A a bit on Saturday. Pretty compact for 94cc. 'Felt' to weigh as much as most other saws of that displacement range, despite the compact layout. Lots of torque. Not much revs. To me it ran like a Homelite SXL-925 with more grunt and less 'on top'. Neat saw. This is Sheldon's saw. Here he is running it (about an hour after buying it from another member). P/C were flawless when we took a peek. Had about a 22" Remington RN with a good loop of 3/8" chipper chain.

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Model Profile: PL-7A
 
"Stumped and Stupid" not a good combination !

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You need just the clutch or some of the attendent parts (large washer, sprocket drum, so forth)?

The drum is a 1/4" x 9 tooth.

Yours for postage. Just P.M. your address.

Carl.

Carl or anyone for that matter,.. I have a question.
I just noticed somthing strange on the SL-9. I put your clutch on( I am buying a used clutch from Carl cause I figured mine may be bad ) and then the chain and put the cover on and was tighting up the 2 cover nuts/ bar nut's. I wanted to turn the chain some to be sure it was not to tight but with my fingers I could not make it budge. So I put on a glove and tried again thinking there if I slip at least I wont get cut.
When I did get the chain to move the engine also turned over? The plug was out so I took a plastic probe thing and put it into the cylinder and on the piston .Sure enough when the chain moves around the bar so does the piston move? No wonder the chain wont stop turning when the saw is running?
It is like everything is welded to the crank as one unit when the engine turns over so does the chain? This is the way I have it assembled ,.. from the crank out there is the lg washer with all the holes in it, then the clutch is spun on, then the drum and bearing, then the flat washer then the nut ? do I have somthing in the wrong order or.....am i missing somthing?
Maybe the clutch is not bad but what could be causing this? As it is now there is no sence to try to start it when you pull the recoil the chain spins around the bar? Stumped and Stupid
 
Yes, that is a hardened washer to control endplay of the needle bearing.

Hope you didn't loose it. It's to one closest to the clutch in the picture.

Well yes and no, Many years ago my bil had Agway work on his saw for some reason and I think they lost it back then. When he got it back not ony did it not run any better but the chain turned all the time as well.I had what I think is a hardened washer (straw colored yellowish ) that I re-drilled to the correct diam.
I got the clutch to (work) correctly as the chain can remain stopped while the saw runs but... The carb gasket is still an issue( go figure it didnt heal up ) so I want to get a rebuild kit and make a gasket. I got the saw to run but she leaks gas badly from some place under the saw. When you pick up the saw huge puddle beneath it? The air box seems to have a very little leakage into it but there is a leak some other place that shows up from the underneath.
How do you change the gas line out? This has the orig gas line but I can see no way to re-connect the line to the tank nipple? (which I assume is there but cannot see) In the mean time I need to see if I can get a re-build kit for the carb and make a gasket. If you have any thoughts on this stuff that would be great. Jeff
 
If you look at the IPL, part #17 is the crankcase/fuel tank/oil tank all one piece with a cover. If you remove the flywheel and then the tank cover you can easily get to the fuel line. The tank gasket is likely leaking so you can practice your gasket making skills. Check for cracks as it may have been dropped onto a hard surface.

Note: Some were assembled with a glued on tank cover (i.e. no screws). If so, you are S.O.L.

Find a diaphram & gasket kit on evilbay. DG-5HS Carbs. seldom need the full rebuild kit. Be shure to assemble in the correct diaphram gasket order. Metering lever level with chamber floor.

I have two parts carcasses your are welcome to for cost of shipping.
 
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If you look at the IPL, part #17 is the crankcase/fuel tank/oil tank all one piece with a cover. If you remove the flywheel and then the tank cover you can easily get to the fuel line. The tank gasket is likely leaking so you can practice your gasket making skills. Check for cracks as it may have been dropped onto a hard surface.

Note: Some were assembled with a glued on tank cover (i.e. no screws). If so, you are S.O.L.

Find a diaphram & gasket kit on evilbay. DG-5HS Carbs. seldom need the full rebuild kit. Be shure to assemble in the correct diaphram gasket order. Metering lever level with chamber floor.

I have two parts carcasses your are welcome to for cost of shipping.

Ok I will go at it ,.. Can I use three bond for the tank gasket? Thanks Carl
 
I got to run a PL-7A a bit on Saturday. Pretty compact for 94cc. 'Felt' to weigh as much as most other saws of that displacement range, despite the compact layout. Lots of torque. Not much revs. To me it ran like a Homelite SXL-925 with more grunt and less 'on top'. Neat saw. This is Sheldon's saw. Here he is running it (about an hour after buying it from another member). P/C were flawless when we took a peek. Had about a 22" Remington RN with a good loop of 3/8" chipper chain.


Model Profile: PL-7A


Found these pics of the pl7 I sold a few years back. Sat it next to the SXL 925 for comparison. :cool2:





 
Super 754

Does anyone know if there are aftermarket seals for this saw? Also, does anyone happen to have 1 new piston ring. I found 1 new one, at a local repair shop, and need another. The part number is 65293.
 
This saw arrived yesterday. Remington Super 770. Looks to be very nice
shape. Has a missing screw in the rear handle. It has nice compression
and is suppose to run but i haven't tried yet.


Lee






 
I was invited to display some antiques and run my Mall 7 at the logging competition during the 4th of July festivities in Willamina, Oregon. It started reliably for both cuts, and I was able to kick start it the first cut. The second cut it just popped when I tried to kick start it a couple times, so I gave in and pull started it because it fouls the plug quickly with the 12-1 mix. What a heavy saw! View attachment 303479
 
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