replacing Brake spring on Stihl 029

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jim in gold bar

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Aug 3, 2009
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Location
Gold Bar WA
Am new here, apologies.
Have several saws, make things out of trees that fall down, I cut down, or
that folks give me. have 24" bandsaw that allows me to process almost
any tree that I can lift onto the plate. Anyway have a Stihl 029.
Brake spring broke, got another one, spring is very stiff, can not quite make it go on , am a pretty strong guy , but just can not do this. Saw nifty handle
device someone had fabricated on this board...Would like to know if
there is a trick for streaching that spring. I just can not do it. Tried a
vise grip on one end, and no luck. Short of rigging a turnbuckle up to
a nearby tree I can not figure out how to do this thing.
I have a pretty complete machine tool shop, so making something to work is
not a problem. The shop I got the spring from is a 2 hour drive each way,
would like to avoid it if possible.

Thanks
Jim in Gold Bar
 
Use a cheap flat tipped screwdriver, and cup-shape the flat tip, like a
rear brake tool. A thin flat tipped will work too, in a pinch.

How much did you pay for the spring?
 
Spring was like under eight bucks, and it came with a replacement cover plate, which is nice, but the old one is in good shape, so if anybody needs a brake spring cover plate for a Stihl 029.... should only cost about a buck to ship..
I like your suggestion, I tried something
very similar. Problem is I am just not strong enough to push - or pull
the spring to full tension. Was hoping there was some sort of way to get
a mechanical advantage other then a simple muscle powered push pull.
Like some sort of action specific tool. The photo of a handle made out
of what looks like tube aluminum, with a hook that fits inside of the spring
looks like a possibility...What I was hoping for was some sort of "spreader"
that would work like an inverse set of channel locks...

Thanks again
jigb
 
Throwing out ideas, not sure how strong the spring is. some may be overly complicated.

mill a groove lengthwise in a round rod, like a brake spring tool as descirbed already.

large truarc snap ring tool?

thinking pipe/bar clamps, or c clamps, but in reverse.
could you machine up some sort of blocks with dowel pins that fit into the spring ends, and mount on a jack screw/acme screw in a channel or block to guide it.

Of drill some holes in the top of a machine vise, add dowel pins, etc. Opening the vise spreads the pins.

Or like old fashioned valve spring compressor for flat head engines. They were two levers, pinned at center like a teeter totter. Far end had cups, in this case pins to fit the spring. Near end had a bolt/threaded screw. pulling the near ends together with the jack screw made the far ends move apart because of the pivot at the middle. I have one for Model A ford, but can't get pictures for a week or so.
 
First off, make sure that the brake is ON before trying to put the spring on. You will have to stretch it less that way. I have a large set of vice-grip needle nose pliers that I use to "grab" the spring in the long straight portion. I can get quite a bit of purchase on those pliers, and then stretch the spring right into place.
 
First off, make sure that the brake is ON before trying to put the spring on. You will have to stretch it less that way.

:agree2:

Problem is I am just not strong enough to push - or pull
the spring to full tension.

I'm not sure, but I'm only 150lbs and didn't have any problem putting the spring on my 025 for which I used just regular needle-nose pliers.
:confused:
 
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Thanks guys.. Lots of good ideas here...Supposed to cool down soon -
we have been having 100 plus temps here (no biggie for most of you,
but those of us living in the pacific northwest have a very low tolerance
for heat :) soon as it cools a bit will take your ideas and see what
I can come up with.. Can always chain the saw to the ground and
hook up the ol John Deere :)

Thanks again,, and best to all of you

jigb
 
Can always chain the saw to the ground and
hook up the ol John Deere :)

jigb

I'm sure you are joking, but just to be sure, please don't do it!!! I have replaced ALOT of rear handles on those that were broken by people yanking on them after pinching the bar. Not real hard to snap the front handle that way either.
 
I did it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks to you all, it took a combination of all of your efforts, a large set
of channel locks, vise grips, a bit of fence wire, a few bungie cords and an
8" C clamp...I think the folks in Index (about 12 miles away) could hear my
yell of joy when that spring set down in the hook from the brake bar linkage...
In the process put on new drive sprocket set and one of those nifty
bar/chain sets that Oregon sells (the Yellow tag PLUEESE not that safe
sane blue stuff ))).
Ya know it is funny, am in late 50s have been using a chain saw since 1976
and it is only this experience that has taught me how to really use and care
for a chain saw...Never knew 3/8 pitch from pine pitch or 72 link from a
chain link fence.. Got my chains from the local hardware store where
.325 and 3/8 were just sorta interesting variations and were considered pretty
much interchangeable....Always wondered why that expensive orange and
white chainsaw would just not cut no matter HOW sharp the chain was...

Well thanks again.. It is tinder dry here right now, but soon as we
get a good rain, I got 4 alders to take down, and a few maples to
suss out for trim back later this fall...We need not even go into the
hemlock blight..sigh.....so many trees - and only one me..

jim in gold bar
 
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