Resurrecting a Mac 10-10 carcass-I need help

[SpikeDmax]

I can't believe I'm doing this but it's been a long boring winter. I've taken on the challenge of resurrecting an old McCulloch 10-10 parts saw that's seen better days.

The good news is compression is 130ish psi and it runs. Sort of.

I need some parts and hoping I can get some help here.

*I need a Tillotson HS "H" needle screw for the carburetor.

*I need a clutch and drum and accompanying hardware.

Those are the two big items I need to get it going but there are other parts I could use if someone has a similar saw they are parting out.

The saw originally had no spark so I installed an ignition chip and got it to fire and run with mix down the carburetor. I found an old Zama carb and pulled off the "H" screw and it fit the Tillotson carb but doesn't' have the correct shape needle end to regulate the high-end fuel delivery. The saw idled and would run but was getting flooded with fuel at higher RPM's.

Really hoping to get this old carcass back in the game and cutting again.

I have a couple other quick questions if someone can help answer them...

 

[SpikeDmax]

Here's a picture of the Tillotson HS carb with the missing 'H" needle screw

 

[SpikeDmax]

One of the other questions I have is the saw will not turn off with the "off" slider switch. I've checked the switch wire with an Ohm meter and it is good. I think the issue is either the grounding tab on the slider switch or my connection with the ignition chip. Any suggestions? Here's a picture for reference.

 

[heimannm]

Your wiring is correct, try moving the switch more slowly, sometimes they go too far and move beyond the point of making contact. I have a few that won't turn off if you move the switch fully in the off direction, but will stop the saw if you fiddle a little with the switch position. You can always remove the throttle trigger to get at the switch and see what's going on in there.

I have clutches, drums, sprockets, bearings, washers, and most anything else you'd need but I rarely encounter the Tillotson HS carburetors. Most of the saws were equipped with Walbor SDC carburetors of which I have a few.

Mark

 

[SpikeDmax]

Your wiring is correct, try moving the switch more slowly, sometimes they go too far and move beyond the point of making contact. I have a few that won't turn off if you move the switch fully in the off direction, but will stop the saw if you fiddle a little with the switch position. You can always remove the throttle trigger to get at the switch and see what's going on in there.

I have clutches, drums, sprockets, bearings, washers, and most anything else you'd need but I rarely encounter the Tillotson HS carburetors. Most of the saws were equipped with Walbor SDC carburetors of which I have a few.

Mark

Thanks, Mark.

I'm not opposed to swapping to a Walbro SDC, assuming it's "plug and play". Probably easier to change carbs than to find an "H" needle screw.

Is there a way to contact you to purchase items I need?

Thanks again for your help.

 

[heimannm]

You can start a conversation (used to be referred to as a Private Message or PM). Just click on my screen name below the avitar and start the conversation.

Mark

 

[SpikeDmax]

Hi Mark;

I'm trying to start a conversation but apparently I've reached my maximum allowed without paying or donating.

 

[SpikeDmax]

Feel free to contact me at my user name plus gmail

 

[heimannm]

Check your email, I tried to send a message earlier today.

Mark

 

[undee70ss]

Hi Mark;

I'm trying to start a conversation but apparently I've reached my maximum allowed without paying or donating.

Delete some of your old conversations

 

[tom maslar]

Here's a picture of the Tillotson HS carb with the missing 'H" needle screw

I just saw a tillotson carb on eBay for cheap. You might want to upgrade to a spline drive sprocket from little red barn. Your sprocket is 3/8 pitch and seven spline. If you are running less than a 20 inch bar go on Amazon and buy an eight tooth when you order the clutch. You will increase the chain speed and improve the functionality significantly. For 17 dollars, go on Amazon and buy an Oregon electronic ignition module. Simple install, huge performance gain.