just an fyi, one thing you want to do with that, is burn it in direct draft mode only. that means keep the top damper valve wide open, so it exhausts from the top. that stove design had a lot of issues. it's an old design and was a tech breakthrough when first released, but the design has not weathered the test of time well. let me explain:
if you close the top damper and put that stove into "indirect mode" using the mid-level flue exit, the flue path to the chimney is actually shorter inside the stove, by 4 inches. what this does is send more heat up the chimney. a lot of people buy those stoves and simply can't get them to work right in indirect mode. the ones that burn it using direct draft mode i.e. top outlet have good results. fwiw, it will also burn anthracite and bituminous coal.
I'm probably going to BLOCK the mid-flue outlet on mine and just use it as a conventional box stove, like the old Atlanta or Sears Homesteader. The low level flue exit was a feature that didn't really work all that well. What it did do was enable the entire box to be filled with wood, and burn at a slow smolder, and attempted to burn the smoke in the side combustion flue. but unless that flue is 275 degrees or hotter at all times, that system won't work- and preferably it should be 400 degrees to get the smoke to ignite on secondary ignition. to get a 400 degree flue temp you'd have to be burning it at 700-800 and that would be overfiring it.
basically the stove works a whole lot better as a conventional box stove with top outlet and manual pipe damper, if you need one.
another issue is, that design is nowhere near airtight. the air inlet control area at bottom, leaks into the upper flue area at top, through the small gap crack between the 2 firebricks in the combustion flue, that are slanted. I shined a flashlight down in mine and could see a slit of light in the inlet damper area. to really run that stove well, it should be completely resealed.
that stove is still sold by DC Machine (Riteburn) and Hitzer (models 75 and 82) today, as a coal stove. but it still has all the same inherent nuances as the original Riteway design. if you look around on the net you'll find that a lot of people have problems with them brand new. all that has to be done, is keep the big damper lever in the UP position and use direct draft top exhaust. better yet do that and BLOCK the bottom mid-flue exit completely, and block the drilled secondary air holes in the flue. they only kill the draft in the stove.
