RKI: Help getting this Sears H47G Gear Drive to run. (pic)

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

TonyRumore

ArboristSite Guru
Joined
Aug 22, 2010
Messages
700
Reaction score
154
Location
USA
Reasonably Knowledgeable Individual (RKI) needed to help me get this old gear drive to run. Keep in mind, I have never worked on any saws other than modern Stihls, but have worked over/rebuilt 50+ of those.

An 85 year old active T28 pilot gave me this saw that he bought new around 1965. He said the last time it ran was in the late 70's, and then it was stored in one of his hangars since then.

The bad - Motor locked up, chain won't turn, and no spark.
The good - Its all there, unmolested, reasonably clean, good P/C, oiler works, and the 1/2 inch chain is nearly new.

It didn't take much to break the motor loose....spins over nicely.....bearings seem fine. I got the chain turning freely and it blows 115psi. Low of course, but it feels like enough to get it fired at least. I'm not sure what it should blow in nice shape. Could have stuck rings.

Other than fuel/air delivery (I will handle that) I need advise on fixing the spark issue and any maintenance requirements on the gear drive.

I am assuming the points are under the flywheel? What do I need to pull the flywheel? I only have Stihl pullers/tools.
Grease the gear drive?

Tony Rumore

SearsH47G2_zpsb9844f74.jpg
 
Last edited:
Tain't worth fixin'............the more you work on it the more work it will need. Get yourself a Homey or Mac gear-drive with a Tilly or Walbro carb and you can more readily get a grip on all that is gear-drive. I wouldn't hit a hog in the butt with a Carter diaphragm carb such as that one on the Sears saw. I might even be mistaken that it's a Carter, but it's Gay regardless. I wouldn't wish that saw on an enemy.
:cheers:
 
I'm not "getting myself anything". I have 48 Pro Stihls that I can use for cutting wood.
I just want this thing running before it goes up on the shelf.

Tony

P.S. This is half of them. They run all around the other side of the shop as well.

StihlSaws5_zps785f5c8d.jpg
 
IIRC that saw has a Tecumseh diaphragm carburetor. They're easy to spot, as the choke and throttle shafts are vertical, rather than horizontal. Weird. The diaphragms are the same as what was used in MANY Tecumseh 2-stroke engines on augers, saws, mowers, snow throwers, and other OPE. They're still available, and cheap. Tony post the Sears model #. Should be 917.xxxxxx.
 
917 62803

Tony

Here's the Acres listing for it. Doesn't tell us a whole lot unfortunately. Also, the listing incorrectly states that your saw has an AH58 engine, when it actually has a Tecumseh/Power Products AH47 engine.

Model Profile: 917.62803

115PSI actually isn't too bad for these engines. They didn't have much more than that when new, and will run just fine at 115PSI. The ignition is indeed all under the flywheel. Probably just some corrosion on the points. The flywheel can be pulled with a gear puller. Should be two or three 1/4-20 holes in the flywheel (been about a year since I pulled the last one).

You can also do the 'trick' of grabbing the flywheel by the root of a fin with some pliers and lifting the saw slightly........then rapping the side of the flywheel with a plastic-faced hammer (after removing the starter cup, then threading the nut back on until flush with the end of the crank). If it's really stubborn, some heat applied to the flywheel around the crank followed by some raps on the end of the crank with a plastic or brass faced hammer (while holding the flywheel with pliers like before) will make 'er pop right off). You'll see the tin points box once you remove the flywheel. The recomended gap should be cast into the face of the flywheel.

Here's a good thread about the Tecumseh/Power Products engines in saws.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/147859.htm

The gear box will do fine with 90W gear oil. Should be a fill/drain plug somewhere on the side of the case. Fill the box to the point where oil just dribbles out of the fill plug hole when the saw is sitting level on the bench.

Edit:

Here's the Sears listing and IPL for your saw. You'll see that a few parts (including carb parts and the points and condensor) are still available from them.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...247/1503200?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=91762803
 
Last edited:
Back
Top