paccity
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50". i know where some beautiful 40/ 50/60", nos generals are , but i have patients.
Roller Nose Bars!
- Thread starter Dennis Cahoon
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Mr. Bow Saw
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Somebody's home made electric chainsaw.
Mall
Mall
Bill G
ArboristSite King
I do not see any pic. So have you seen ole Marky Mark??????????????????
He is HELLS KITCHENS TRAPPER and I need advice
RBurtcher
ArboristSite Operative
I do not see any pic. So have you seen ole Marky Mark??????????????????
He is HELLS KITCHENS TRAPPER and I need advice
C'mon it's the infamous 3 1/2" Mall/Remington roller tip Everyones talking about.
thomas1
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Brian13
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This is the only other on I have. Need to get a few more.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
cpr
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Every once in a while, I time something right.
Just bagged 2 NOS 2.75 Torrington tips on feebay. Probably overpaid, but they never come up for sale. I have a 4' bar with a blown-out tip I need to fix and the other can be a spare.
There's still a .050 2.5" Oregon one listed.
Just bagged 2 NOS 2.75 Torrington tips on feebay. Probably overpaid, but they never come up for sale. I have a 4' bar with a blown-out tip I need to fix and the other can be a spare.
There's still a .050 2.5" Oregon one listed.
Dennis Cahoon
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes, you paid to much......and......hope they're the right hole pattern. Torrington tips do have 2 different patterns.
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cpr
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We'll see which they are. The one that matches the others will go in the drawer. In the case of the bar I need to fix, the whole nose of the bar is going to have to be cut off and redone, so it doesn't matter what pattern it is. A friend's machine shop is going to do the work once the parts get here.
EDIT: In the mailbox when I got home. Rivet pattern is the same on both, but one has a larger "tail" on the blade that may not work on all bars. Consequently, the "Homelite" p/n one I'll save, the other I'll use on the bar that needs to be modified. Also, all of my bars have Oregon tips except the new Cannon and all except 2 are 2 7/8. The profiles are right enough to use the 2 2/3 in their place if I ever had to.
I'll have to talk with the shop owner, but in case he has no idea, is there anyone out there putting studite on bars anymore? The one I have to chop down will lose some or all of it once reprofiled. While I have a couple of bars that don't have it, I'd consider putting it back if the price isn't outlandish (not full-rail, just last 6" at the tip).
EDIT: In the mailbox when I got home. Rivet pattern is the same on both, but one has a larger "tail" on the blade that may not work on all bars. Consequently, the "Homelite" p/n one I'll save, the other I'll use on the bar that needs to be modified. Also, all of my bars have Oregon tips except the new Cannon and all except 2 are 2 7/8. The profiles are right enough to use the 2 2/3 in their place if I ever had to.
I'll have to talk with the shop owner, but in case he has no idea, is there anyone out there putting studite on bars anymore? The one I have to chop down will lose some or all of it once reprofiled. While I have a couple of bars that don't have it, I'd consider putting it back if the price isn't outlandish (not full-rail, just last 6" at the tip).
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paulhogan87
#PaulBunyan
I know this is an extremely old thread but thought I'd ad to it. I debated selling my dad's old S10 but have since started using it again. Upon trying to track down a new chain, and knowing the bar wasn't stock but had been in the saw for 30+years, I couldn't find much info on the bar itself. The bar is marked "Windsor" on the bar and "Torrington" on the roller tip, which lead me to this thread. Any modern equivalencies? I'd like to buy a new chain too but only marked Oregon and 30 on the links
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Windsor bars were top notch in quality and any chain will fit them no matter who makes them, only the gauge and pitch must match the bar groove and the nose sprocket if it has spurs, if its a roller nose then any pitch can be run on it. The bearings in the tip are likely Torrington. The chain on your saw is on backwards by the way, it will cut much better turned so the sharp edge of the cutters face the tip on the top of the bar.
paulhogan87
#PaulBunyan
Windsor bars were top notch in quality and any chain will fit them no matter who makes them, only the gauge and pitch must match the bar groove and the nose sprocket if it has spurs, if its a roller nose then any pitch can be run on it. The bearings in the tip are likely Torrington. The chain on your saw is on backwards by the way, it will cut much better turned so the sharp edge of the cutters face the tip on the top of the bar.
Haha, yes, I know. It's an old picture! That was taken a while back and was previously mentioned when I was asking about parts for it. A little oversight after putting it back on after taking it to be sharpened. Thank you for the info. Growing up my dad used it and it's oretty much the only saw I ever "saw" and used so I didn't realize how little the roller nosed bars were used anymore.
There is no real reason not to use them, they work fine on my saws. There are modern sprocket nose bars that will fit your saw but they really wouldn`t work any better if the bar you have is still in tight shape.
paulhogan87
#PaulBunyan
Yeah, it's never given us any problems so I plan to use the bar as long as it will last.
paulhogan87
#PaulBunyan
So, help me out. I need to replace the chain. It appears it's a .404 pitch and .063 gauge. I'm a little unsure of the bar length. Measuring from tip of chain or bar back to the sprocket cover (as how my understanding of bar measurement goes)gives me between 21" and 22". My research is showing very little as far as chain availability and what I can find is both designed for 65cc+ saws (mine only 55cc) and in lengths other than what I need.
The chain currently reads only "Oregon" and the number 30.
Should I swap the bar and sprocket for something 3/8" compatible? The top edge of the bar rails have seen some mushrooming over the sides over the years. I'm wondering too as to weather it's even safe to be using that bar?
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Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here's a couple of my favorite roller tip bars. Marky Mark gave me the smaller one and I don't know who made it and haven't ever seen another one. Does anyone know who made that bar and tip? The other is the famous 3 1/2" Mall/Remington roller tip. The tip slides into the slotted bar and isn't riveted to the bar itself. I personally use these on my big bellyed hotsaw bars, run on my cr 500 hotsaw.
These bars with the exposed roller nose are new on eBay for partner saws cheap. I bought five for my collection of partner saws he has plenty left
File off the burrs (mushrooming) on your bar, you can do it with a bar dresser or flat raker file/bastard file. Don't measure your bar, count how many drive links the chain has and know what pitch it is for replacement. Bars need maintenance, you can't just cut for years without dressing them. How many drive links does your chain have?
Older slower revving saws often used .404 chain, its perfectly fine for your saw and there is still plenty of it around in both chipper and chisel tooth. As already mentioned, count the number of drivers on your chain, that is how chain is measured. The bar can be dressed up and still has plenty of life left in it especially as it won`t likely see hundreds of hours of use from here on. A flat file used correctly will remove the burrs and even out the bar rails, for me I would keep the bar and just file up the chain.
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