Rope climbing questions

[canopyboy]

I think I'm gonna swing down and grab one tomorrow.

Might call 'em first. I know the Stihl saw shops around here seem to have them on hand. With the types of questions you're asking, it'll be the best money you can spend right now. Heck, come Saturday you'll probably be buried in it and forget about the fireworks....

 

[Garden Of Eden]

Haha I've spent countless hours making these fireworks. I've had them stored in my basement for the last 6 months almost. I doubt many will forget these. lol

I only frequent my stihl shop, it's only like a mile and a half from me.

Speaking of that, I just got one of their "new" chains, WOOOO, best $20 I've spent in a while. Amazed. I've cut a 49.5" dbh maple that was just light of 100' with it. the whole tree. Still sharp too. It's a hungry blade.

Thanks

Jeff

 

[Tree Pig]

Awesome. Looks like the way I been doing it. Does the bowline make sense?

Thanks again,

Jeff

Bowline can be used but I dont really know anyone that does. Clove is all you need or as mentioned you can tie fishermans or buntline.

Oh yeah little known secret but if your good and know how to search it you can find tree climbers guide and tree climbers companion in .pdf file on the internet. To prevent getting any sponsors in an outrage I wont say anymore.

 

[Garden Of Eden]

Bowline can be used but I dont really know anyone that does. Clove is all you need or as mentioned you can tie fishermans or buntline.

I think I'm kinda leaning towards a double fishermans, or a figure 8 on a bight, just makes sense to me. I'm gonna grab that book, tree climbers companion tomorrow.

Jeff

 

[Tree Pig]

I think I'm kinda leaning towards a double fishermans, or a figure 8 on a bight, just makes sense to me. I'm gonna grab that book, tree climbers companion tomorrow.

Jeff

Well the companion will tell you to tie a Clove/Bunt/anchor/fishermans in that order. Not that either is preferred over the other just how they list them.

 

[treemandan]

Hello,

I'm kinda new to rope climbing the smart way. I've done many crazy, stupid things in the past to get the job done, so now I'm looking to do somethings safer.

I'm wondering after I get the length of rope in the tree, and I have it around a solid crotch of the tree, what kind of knot do I tie for a SRT. I'm thinking some kind of slip knot, but I'm not sure I'm 100% thrilled about my life being in a slip knot. lol 80' is a long way down.

Also, what is my redundancy for safety on the line. Do I use an ascender for my foot, and one for my weight, then a double or triple prussik for safety? or is the ascender for safety, and the prussik for my foot, and another ascender for my weight? lol I'm so confused. lol

I'm really not a HUGE fan of spurs, as I know I'm not doing it right, and will soon hurt myself if not instructed. So, I'm leaving that for a bit. lol

Thank you all very much, and God bless,

Jeff

Don't matter, you are gonna hurt yourself no matter, don't let it bother ya, at least try not to.

 

[outofmytree]

Over here the TAFE colleges teach either bowline with yosemite or figure 8 on a bight as termination knots. Whichever knot you prefer learn to tie it in your sleep. Same applies to your friction hitch which is, in this case, the Blakes. Practise, practise, practise and then practise some more. Good luck.

 

[canopyboy]

The knot must 'cinch up' on the biner and not move around. If the knot moves around it may end on the gate and the gate on a biner is a weak point.

Not sure about the MUST there. I make an effort not to speak in absolutes, there is usually more than one way to do anything -- even if you factor in safety. It is a must that you don't gate load a 'biner. Some people 'prefer' a cinching knot to the carabiner as this makes it harder to gate load it. But open loops like the 8 on a bight or a bowline with yosemite are fine too, you just need to check the 'biner orientation after putting slack into your system.

I find when using my hitch climber that the fisherman's knot interferes with my hitch cord. There I still use a f8 on a bight in order to get the termination knot above the hitch. (Probably why they recommend a spliced eye for this.) I guess you could use one of their rubber band things to still keep the splice or loop tight on the 'biner. Of course, even with a cinching knot I've had the 'biner get itself jammed at the saddle tie-in such that the gate could be side loaded if not checked and corrected before reapplying the tension. I think a person needs to be paying attention to their carabiners regardless.

 

[canopyboy]

Good point. "Must" was a bit too strong a word.

I find it a draw back to the hitch climber that spliced tress cords and climbing ropes are required for it to be at it's best. It adds a lot to the cost of what can be an almost cost free climbing system.

Yeah, I'm not completely sold on the hitch climber. I bought it, I've been using it, I kind of like it, but not sure I would buy it again if I had it to do over.

 

[Bermie]

Good point. "Must" was a bit too strong a word.

I find it a draw back to the hitch climber that spliced tress cords and climbing ropes are required for it to be at it's best. It adds a lot to the cost of what can be an almost cost free climbing system.

Splices are the best but not absolutely required...I use a hitchclimber...my friction cord is spliced icetail in a VT but my climb line is not spliced. I use a double fishermans to tie it and clip my biner into the middle hole. This keeps the knot just far enough from the friction hitch that interference is minimal and all is well, put the biner in the top hole and the knot hits the friction hitch and makes for a scary day...

I REALLY like the hitchclimber...got there after using prussik loop, blake's, distel with a single pulley, distel with the hitchclimber, finally VT with the hitchclimber. Each change got better and better. With each change you make to your climbing system, some bits will work, some won't, it's a matter of tailoring to suit you, and that can have a lot to do with your weight, physique, type of climb line and hitch cord, the types of trees you climb and the kind of work you do.

Keep at it!

 

[canopyboy]

Seems like I tried the center hole with a fisherman's early on with the hitchclimber and didn't like it for some reason. I know I run a pretty short eye-to-eye. But I think it's worth revisiting now. In the mean time, this is how I got around the problem without a spice and still using the top hole.

You're right, I'm always tweaking the system, each time it gets a bit more personal and a bit better.

 

[SINGLE-JACK]

Hitch Climber?

Yeah, I'm not completely sold on the hitch climber. I bought it, I've been using it, I kind of like it, but not sure I would buy it again if I had it to do over.

I got the Fixe and am not completely sold on it. I've been thinking of trying the Hitch Climber and am interested in why you're "not completely sold on the hitch climber".

Your setup looks good. Which I2I are you using?

 

[canopyboy]

I have the fixe and that worked well. The hitch climber works well too, just not sure if I think it was worth the extra money. We'll see with time if I ever want to go back though...

The i2i is 8mm bee line, been splicing them myself at 26" between eyes. This way I can get the eyes nice and tight as well as have my custom length. (30" is too long.) Costs about $7. Takes me about an hour.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=101918

Since that thread I've started whipping the eyes to keep the vectran fibers from fuzzing when taking on and off the biner. You can see the black, waxed electrical lacing cord I've used for that in the picture with my setup. Took that picture when it was still fresh on a short length of tachyon I sometimes hang in the sunroom to play with.

 

[SINGLE-JACK]

I have the fixe and that worked well. The hitch climber works well too, just not sure if I think it was worth the extra money. We'll see with time if I ever want to go back though...

The i2i is 8mm bee line, been splicing them myself at 26" between eyes. This way I can get the eyes nice and tight as well as have my custom length. (30" is too long.) Costs about $7. Takes me about an hour.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=101918

Since that thread I've started whipping the eyes to keep the vectran fibers from fuzzing when taking on and off the biner. You can see the black, waxed electrical lacing cord I've used for that in the picture with my setup. Took that picture when it was still fresh on a short length of tachyon I sometimes hang in the sunroom to play with.

Nice work!!! I recognized the bee line. I thought you bought it. Yale makes very similar i2i's at 24" & 30". But, your work is better - their eye's aren't whipped - good idea - certainly worth some rep, but I'm outta bullets - maybe someone will rep for me.

 

[canopyboy]

Nice work!!! I recognized the bee line. I thought you bought it. Yale makes very similar i2i's at 24" & 30". But, your work is better - their eye's aren't whipped - good idea - certainly worth some rep, but I'm outta bullets - maybe someone will rep for me.

Yep, I'm digging the whipped eyes. Seems to be holding up well and it just seems less vulnerable. But one of the reasons I've been following Moray's splicing tests closely.

 

[robert549tree]

distel with hitch climber

whats the distel look like with the hitch climber? i been useing it with a reg micro pulley and a foot assender blaze climbing line spiced eye and 26" hrc eye to eye