Rope sheath bunching

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Wilson_tree

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I've been lurking on this site for a while and learning a ton. After reading last week's posts about new hitches I decided to try the distel hitch. I have been climbing with a split tail and blake's, but experimented with the distel a few times this week. I love it, but on descent I have a small problem. The rope sheath slips and gets pretty sloppy and loose by the time I'm on the ground. I wonder if this is a function of cord diameter on my hitch. I'm using a 9mm cord.

thanks,
 
Which rope? Your lifeline or tail?
I've been using the distal made with a Blue Streak tail on Safety Blue lifeline and notice a tendancy for my lifeline to twist on long descents.
 
The sheath of my climbing line is slipping. I always thought that when using a friction hitch that it's diameter should be smaller than the line it is supposed to grab. Maybe that's only for old style hitches like the prussik or backman, etc. I'll give it a try with a larger diameter cord that doesn't have a hard kernmantle weave.

thanks
 
Most 2 part ropes will milk some when new. This includes virtually all 16 strand climbing rope. Best bet is to milk the slack all to the end, then cut and melt.
Whenever I get a new rope, I usually do this after the first long descent I make on it. Bailing out at 75' and repelling all the way to the ground will milk out a new rope in one shot. Although my Safety Blue doesn't need it as much as some ropes.

I think the issue is more with your lifeline than your hitch cord.
 
Wilson,

I`m using the eye and eye prusik cord and it works well.
What type of rope is your climbing line?
 
Many folks think a rope is such a simple thing. It is deceptively, seductively so. Actually, ropework is an incredibly deep art form and can be a way of life.

Rope manufacturers are very concious of arborist rope slippage. They recognize how bombproof a rope must be to put up with our brutal treatment.
braided-safety-blue_hi-vee.jpg

Because of the radius difference and the braids reversing themselves back & forth in the weave, the sheath stretches more then the relatively parallel core. The rope manufacturing process puts incredible tension on the strands to minimize this stretch during construction. When I had a Blue Streak eye spliced in Seattle, I was told that the rope design had been modified to unify the core & sheath, and lessen this tendency. It used to be very milky rope early on in it's design life. I wish I could get more info on the process of design evolution.

Todays climbing lines are an incredible advancement in technology that make our lives a lot easier. The gift of the miracle materials we have been handed make the natural fiber lines of yore seem like inquisition torture devices. The number of stories of catastrophic line failure instances is much rarer, now. My own score is: Falls from treacherous manila-2; Falls from synthetic-0. Yet, the development cycle has only been possible by a responsive cordage industry. Thanks, guys. It's a good thing climbers are patient and hard-headed.

The use of different color lines is a good illustration of the fact that we live in the 21st century. A climber involved in complex rigging situations can become oriented at a glance, due to the color coding of the different lines. Communication with ground support is greatly simplified. Merely by indicating the color of the line, treeworkers can be trained in the function & usage of a particular rope. Multiple climbers are safe in the knowledge that their particular line is sacrosanct by this distinct visual identification.

Different lines have different handling characteristics, which can be a burden to sort out. Being professional, we're expected to be familiar with all of the qualities of the tools we elect to use. This isn't Kansas, anymore, Toto! Know the diameter, loadhandling capacity and tackiness for running thru different friction devices & knots. For example, some mountaineering devices have low tolerance for excessive diameter line.

Above all, know the lengths of the several lines you will be using. Don't get so lost in the intricacies that you forget how short a line is, and run off the end of it!

Get to know your lines intimately, for they are your friends. Force yourself to go thru the formality of an introduction. Establish a relationship by reading the product information that comes with a new line, for you are becoming aquainted with a new partner. Don't ever step on a climbing line. Would you step on your friend? Take care of your tools and they will keep giving back to you.

Just make sure to carefully break in the rope when new. Mount the spool on a spindle, such as a rake handle, and roll it off the spool to prevent twisting. If a rope is coiled, make sure it is put up and flaked out from the proper end. Did you know that the two ends are not identical, they are mirror images of each other? Only the sheath is symmetrical. The core has a twist in one direction only. This is the personality, part of the hand (feel) of the line.

Melt one end, if it is not eye-spliced, and use that end only for a few trees. Run the climbing hitch all the way out to the end, and off of the line. Don't melt the end until some of the glaze has worn away. Beware of the changing properties a rope will metamorphize thru while the slickness wears away! Another practice to avoid during break-in is rapelling down from both ends in a double tie-in situation, which will bunch up line in the center.

Bag your climbing lines, for coiling them can introduce kinks. Coiled ropes seem to get laid on the ground, which introduces dirt in between the fibers, and cuts them. This is what causes a rope to become limp with age. A bag also protects it from harmful sunlight, and keeps gasoline & oil drops, etc. away, which breaks down the ropes strength.

Don't wear gloves when bagging lines. Train yourself to go thru a ritual of removing your gloves before you put the line away. Feel the line as it slides through your fingers, for this is the best time to inspect it (a daily ANSI requirement).

Check for swelling or skinny spots, picked strands, long black melt marks, etc. Correlate these bits of damage to the activity that created them while the memory of what occurred is fresh in your mind. Then, you can modify your practices (which is called training) to prevent abuse in the future.

Here's a couple places to start when looking at product info.

samson

New England Ropes
 
The replies so far have been very helpful and I appreciate your advice. This is embarrassing but I can't remember the brand of the line I was climbing on while experimenting with the distel hitch. It is a 16 strand rope I got on sale from Wesspur because it is 100ft long. The most helpful identifier is that it is green. When it stops raining tomorrow I am going to try tieing the distel with another piece of .5 inch line and see how that works.

take care
 
learning curve again

Manila could be wraped in large loops for storage and the 16 strand has a tendency to figure eight not one open loop for storage.:D Try it and see.
 
Wow, very good OxMan, thanx!

i have some Wall VMax that i got once, it must have been a bad lot. Out of 120', i have cut at least 20' of due to milking. Finally i cut it down to its present 85' length and only run it one way, if i run it the opposite way through the hitch, i would have problems again with it as the cover would still bunch towards the center. i have gone many long drops with it in one direction, had it on the ground with a Tiny on it (280# wall mover) working a friction hitch down it by slamming weight on it about 6 times over time to get it milked. Funny how a guy like that can act like the climbing isn't much of a trick but will complain about having to work a friction hitch down the length of the line!!!

Was the line in question a Vmax? It used to be one of my favorite rope types, after this, not so sure, probably will stick with Sherrill lines now, but always liked the bright Vmax before.
 

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