Ryobi 10532 Build - Lots 'o Pics

[Chris-PA]

Ah....

A few more parts from an old Ryobi might fix that little issue. Then we need to figure out how to convert it to .325. Next comes fuel injection, then 4 wheel drive, and we'll need an electric start. I'll get some parts boxed up right away.

It's an illness, I can't help myself!

Regarding the 0.325 - the original RedMax GZ4000 used a smaller diameter plastic worm gear. The Earthquake, the Jenn Feng clones and the GZ400/Ryobi use a different pump and a larger diameter worm gear. I'm wondering if it is the same gear and the same diameter drive sprocket used on the mid-sized saws like all the 50/52/58cc Chinese clones (and the 45cc Earthquakes)? If so, then converting them would be easy.

If the worn from the 45 and 38cc Earthquakes will swap then it should work.

 

[ft. churchill]

You did all the stuff I do to mine, Good job! I love the difference you feel before and after, and the satisfaction you have of knowing you did it yourself.

 

[nenicu]

I know is an old thread ,i just rebuild mi Ryobi 40 cc chainsaw and i exchanged the original oil pump and worm gear whith a pump and gear from a chinese clone of Redmax 3800. The pump has adjustable flow ,the original is fixed flow. All the clones i"v seen here have the same oil pump and gear. The bigger saws[ Redmax 500 clones ] have bigger worm gear and pump. An other swap i made : i installed on the Ryobi the flywheel and ignition from the 38 cc clone and no more rev limit.

 

[Chris-PA]

I know is an old thread ,i just rebuild mi Ryobi 40 cc chainsaw and i exchanged the original oil pump and worm gear whith a pump and gear from a chinese clone of Redmax 3800. The pump has adjustable flow ,the original is fixed flow. All the clones i"v seen here have the same oil pump and gear like the 38 cc Earthquakes, the bigger saws[ Redmax 500 clones ] have bigger worm gear and pump. An other swap i made : i installed on the Ryobi the flywheel and ignition from the 38 cc clone and no more rev limit.

I have done a similar pump/worm gear swap on a Zenoah GZ4000 using an adjustable pump from a Chinese G3800 clone (sold here as the "Earthquake" brand). The pumps on the original Zenoah GZ4000 use a smaller diameter worm gear, while the GZ400/Ryobi 10432 use a non-adjustable pump with a larger diameter worm. If I recall the GZ400/Ryobi 10432/G3800 clone pumps also have larger diameter oil line fittings compared to the GZ4000, but it was not difficult to adapt.

I wondered how the diameter of the G5000 style worm gears compared to the Ryobi?

 

[mountainlake]

Too bad they put such a good motor in such a cheap saw. steve

 

[Chris-PA]

Too bad they put such a good motor in such a cheap saw. steve

If by cheap you mean poor quality, I do not see it that way at all. The castings are all top quality, and the plastic parts are well made and sturdy. Everything fits properly and works well. The A/V works well too. These saws are a joy to run.

I actually think the GZ400/Ryobi 10532 are better than the GZ4000. The differences are small but the changes are improvements over the GZ4000.

I think these saws suffer from the same problem the cheap Poulans do - the owners. Because they were inexpensive a lot of people bought them that had no clue about how to use or take care of a saw.

 

[Brian B.]

Thanks Chris, this may be the next EQ thread, I have been curious about these saws, much appreciated!

 

[Chris-PA]

Thanks Chris, this may be the next EQ thread, I have been curious about these saws, much appreciated!

Thanks! I believe these had their day in the sun here at AS before the Earthquakes, and they are no longer made. Decent used ones still come up cheap on eBay though.

 

[nenicu]

For Chris: The worm gear for G 5000 clones is bigger diameter inside and autside ,the krank is bigger, and the oil pump is diferent, a bad clone of a G 5000 oil pump.

 

[Chris-PA]

I'm reviving this old thread to double post the results of further mods to this saw that I posted in another thread. This saw has been working quite well, but I always wanted to do a little port work on it as I knew there was much more to be had. Here was the port timing stock:



I did not touch the intake port or strato port timing on this saw, only the exhaust and transfers. I had planned on increasing the exhaust duration to 142 and raising the transfers to maintain the 15deg blowdown, but somehow I measured wrong on the transfers. That meant I had to increase the exhaust to 150deg duration. The exhaust width is 56% as my cheap HF knockoff is too fat to get in at the angle needed for 60% - good enough. Here's the diagram of it ported:



It worked out quite nicely:



In the first clip it's running around 11k, but I was having trouble tuning it due to a leaky check valve. Yet another crap ZAMA C1Q. It was not all that big a leak, but enough to make tuning inconsistent, especially the L. So I put another carb on it with a check valve that seems to seal better and took the second clip, but in a different piece of wood since I had bucked the other one up. Here it's running 12k. The chain is just Oregon 91PX.

I did use it to noodle full bar and it ran great. I'll have to find a bigger piece of wood to buck make it work more, but I'm happy with the way it runs.

 

[Chris-PA]

I had to replace a split fuel line on the saw, and I decided to pull the muffler to see how things looked. Unfortunately I saw a couple of thin stripes which bummed me out. Something was left in there, which goes to show that you must keep it scrupulously clean. I decided to pull the just an look.

There were two very thin grooves that did not extend all the way up, and I decided they would not amount to much. I went over the cylinder with 400 grit and the rings with 800 grit, cleaned it all and put it back together. Interestingly, as I was scraping off the old sealant from the case, I realized that the case gasket was extending above the case surface just enough to catch my tool. So I cut it flush with a very sharp small chisel. When I reassembled the engine was noticeably harder to pull over than before. I figured it might be due to the assembly oil, but after letting it set and running it has not changed. I'm not sure if it's better ring seal or if that gasket edge was lifting the cylinder - likely it would not have mattered if I was using a base gasket.

I put on an 18" bar and a loop of Carlton N1 and made it work full bar in some hard ash. It's pulling between 11.5k and 12k through the widest part of the wood - I'm quite happy with that for 40cc! The strato porting is still intact - I wanted to show that gutting the strato ports is not the only way to make these saws run well.

 

[Chris-PA]

At the beginning of the video I free revved the saw for a moment and you can hear it break up. I could not tell if this was 4-stroking or a rev limiter - I was unsure if it even had a rev limiter. I looked at it with the spectrum analyzer at a really short interval (from 2 to 2.38s), and it would appear to be a rev limiter:


The main rpm spike is at 14520rpm, and there is another spike at 4840rpm which is exactly 1/3. If it were 4-stroking then I would expect to see something at 1/2rpm (I have seen this before). There is another spike in between, but that is at 9680rpm - it's the second harmonic of the 4840rpm and does not mean much.

I have seen this in other video plots, where the rev limiter cuts out 2 out of every 3 firings, while 4-stroking really does seem to fire every other rotation (I don't know why).

 

[Chris-PA]

It turned out that I liked how well the Ryobi ran with an 18" bar, but the one that was in the video above was an old abused piece of junk I got on some used saw, and the tip sprocket fractured just after I made that. It was my last spare 18" 62DL 3/8 lo pro bar, so I decided to get another - but I wanted a 9T tip sprocket. I found a Laser bar on eBay (yes I know it's Chinese), but the price was good with a chain and a bar cover. I think it's going to be a nice combination.

 

[rynosawr]

Hey Chris!

I just picked one of these saws up used but running and for cheap.... because of your posts! It was too cheap to pass up at $40 with the case and running.... I did notice the bar was dry with no oil coming out, but, there was no oil in the oiler.... The saw looks to be in nice shape, but I pulled the clutch and sure enough.... the worm drive gear was messed up....

I went on Aliexpress and ordered 3 of the adjustable oiler pumps and new worm drive gears for the 3800 Earthquake saws, because they were so cheap.... I figured I might help someone else on here if they mention their oil pump failing on them....

In the meantime, I am going to go ahead and install the oiler and see how everything does.

It has the stock bar, and a crappy chain..... I am thinking of dressing the bar a bit and throwing a better round chisel chain on it to try it out.

Do you like your new bar and chain setup? What do you feel is the ideal bar and chain for this saw?


I may make this my "loaner saw" that I will send a jug of mix fuel with so it will minimize the chances of something stupid happening.... plus, I just want a really light little saw for keeping little stuff cleaned up around the house.... this CAD sickness is ridiculous!

 

[TBS]

These are good stout little saws, I've got 2 and it was my first saw. They are a good saw to beat on with plenty of aftermarket and oem parts available.

 

[Chris-PA]

Hey Chris!

I just picked one of these saws up used but running and for cheap.... because of your posts! It was too cheap to pass up at $40 with the case and running.... I did notice the bar was dry with no oil coming out, but, there was no oil in the oiler.... The saw looks to be in nice shape, but I pulled the clutch and sure enough.... the worm drive gear was messed up....

I went on Aliexpress and ordered 3 of the adjustable oiler pumps and new worm drive gears for the 3800 Earthquake saws, because they were so cheap.... I figured I might help someone else on here if they mention their oil pump failing on them....

In the meantime, I am going to go ahead and install the oiler and see how everything does.

It has the stock bar, and a crappy chain..... I am thinking of dressing the bar a bit and throwing a better round chisel chain on it to try it out.

Do you like your new bar and chain setup? What do you feel is the ideal bar and chain for this saw?


I may make this my "loaner saw" that I will send a jug of mix fuel with so it will minimize the chances of something stupid happening.... plus, I just want a really light little saw for keeping little stuff cleaned up around the house.... this CAD sickness is ridiculous!

They really are wonderful little saws. They need at least a muffler mod, which makes a large difference. With that, I think they work great with a 16" bar.

This particular saw continues to amaze me, and will pull that 18" bar easily. It's one of the most successful mods I've ever done, and I see no point to bothering with any other saw in this size class. The mods I did on this saw were really pretty easy, not radical at all.

Good luck with yours, and those Earthquake pumps work fine.