Saw handeling

[xtremetrees]

I dont use top handled saw when climbing or trimming.
Sure there may be more positing involved but tis worth not getting tendonitis.
Sure they come in handy when its cut and toss limbs all day or walking thru a trim job its nice to have a extra hand to hold onto with.

In order to get both hands on the wood I find I have to set my saw down quickly. That means it stays attached to me when cutting aloft. I dont like that at all and for this reason I use two handed saws.

I quickly engage my chain break and dump my saw onto its lanyard. I use a keychain carabiner to attach to my saddle and with a breaking strength less than 500 lbs. I always engage my chainbreak if I let my saw idle around my feet.

What techniques did you employ to ensure your saw dont stick to logs.?

 

[Tree Machine]

The tendonitis in the wrist and the achey shoulder went away when I quit using top-handled saws and went to the 346XP. Cuts are quicker, more cuts per tank of gas and two hands are always on the saw, something I can't say I did with much with top-handles.

When using the 395 aloft through big-diameter vertical spar (firewood length chunks) run the saw at top end, and right near the end of the cut, push extra hard, cutting clean through. I call this the 'laser light saber' method. The saw never gets pinched. Push, bomb, repeat.

 

[Sizzle-Chest]

I quickly engage my chain break and dump my saw onto its lanyard. I use a keychain carabiner to attach to my saddle and with a breaking strength less than 500 lbs. I always engage my chainbreak if I let my saw idle around my feet.

just a suggestion, but I would spend a few bucks to get a better biner on that saw cuz those keychain biners can strech out or break really easy, and then your saw goes down hard. i have broke two of those little biners in normal use, i would never put any load on them. like i said, just a suggestion