saw rpm question.

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merc_man

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I just got a tach to check saw rpm. (Saw is husqvarna 353) i rebuilt it with aftrrmarket top end. Original piston had one ring and after market has two rings. Factory specs say 13 000 max rpm. I check it and its only at 11 200. i tuned it by ear and seems to perform quite well. Gurgles out of the cut. Should i try to retune with tach for higher rpm or just leave it.

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i'd be leaning it out. your ears are still to virgin to tune without a tach properly. lol a way to get real good at tuning. is play around tuning by ear and checking your results with the tach. that how i got it and i can get pretty dang close just by ear. a 353 will be very hard to tell to the virgin ear if it's 4 stroking when tuned right. of course, if it works for you then no worries but i like my saws tuned well. mostly for improved limbing and brushing. bucking cuts i like more fuel for some saws but i like to find that happy medium.
 
I might get some other saws out and just check them for curiosity sometime. I always was afraid of being too lean but guess i dont have to worry about that lol.

The plug on that saw is a nice golden brown.


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Some saws I can't hear 4 stroke for nothing. But then again I can't hear my wife either.:(

Reading plugs can be very misleading. The part that is important, at the root of the porcelain, is impossible to see with out a special optical tool.
 
i'd be leaning it out. your ears are still to virgin to tune without a tach properly. lol a way to get real good at tuning. is play around tuning by ear and checking your results with the tach. that how i got it and i can get pretty dang close just by ear. a 353 will be very hard to tell to the virgin ear if it's 4 stroking when tuned right. of course, if it works for you then no worries but i like my saws tuned well. mostly for improved limbing and brushing. bucking cuts i like more fuel for some saws but i like to find that happy medium.

I would agree to this all, but the guy said he installed a aftermarket top end. Maybe just maybe 11k is all the new top end can muster. Food for thought.

Now imagine setting the same top end to the factory recommend rpm. Can you say "burned up"

To the op. You also used a new cylinder correct?
 
Ya it was a new big bore hutzle piston and cylinder kit.

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I bet the top end is the limitation.
My guess over the internet. If the guy can hear burble at 11k I have hope in the guy hearing at at 13k. But I have no idea about his capabilities.
 
Had an issue after rebuild similar and it ended being a carb issue. Thought it was the aftermarket coil and shelled out for OEM with the same result.

Jeremy
 
You can't use a tach to tune to factory spec safely if you've done ANY modification to the saw.

If you have a tough time hearing the saw 4 stroking, try it in wood.

Richen it up before you cut. Cut and release pressure, lean a bit, repeat.

Keep leaning it out till there is a discernable burble without bar pressure and it's gone when you put pressure on the bar.

Then check with a tach. That's your max rpm.

Every adjustment to the saw you make, repeat the above. I don't have any limited coil saws, but apparently this ^^^ is how to tune them safely.

I don't tach any of my saws till there been run and broken in, and even then, just for curiosity and not for tune.
 
You can't use a tach to tune to factory spec safely if you've done ANY modification to the saw.

If you have a tough time hearing the saw 4 stroking, try it in wood.

Richen it up before you cut. Cut and release pressure, lean a bit, repeat.

Keep leaning it out till there is a discernable burble without bar pressure and it's gone when you put pressure on the bar.

Then check with a tach. That's your max rpm.

Every adjustment to the saw you make, repeat the above. I don't have any limited coil saws, but apparently this ^^^ is how to tune them safely.

I don't tach any of my saws till there been run and broken in, and even then, just for curiosity and not for tune.
same here was curious as to what rpms they are. I knew the husky was a little rich. I was timmid of the off brand top end but seems to be golding up good so far. It performs quite well for beng a oittlw on the rich side. Mihjt lean out a bit more and check with tach for curiosity.

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Most of the time people won't lean one far enough, 13000 sounds pretty fast to most and they won't take it that far.
Most i check are at least 1000 rpm slow.
 
That's my problem once they get to 13k. Some of the huskies are harder for me to tell. The 440/460 hybrid was 4 stroking @15.5k and I could hear that. A 372 after I switched from blue to black coil went to 16k with a slight burble.
 
I've got a 90cc saw that u have cn mike that will 4stroke to a very scary place but u have also cn the piston out of it as well, I don't think a big mass like a 66 piston can live over 14500 for very long, it won't seize but it will break pistons. It easily tunes at 14500 but I'm to chicken to see where it doesn't 4stroke at.
 
I've got a 90cc saw that u have cn mike that will 4stroke to a very scary place but u have also cn the piston out of it as well, I don't think a big mass like a 66 piston can live over 14500 for very long, it won't seize but it will break pistons. It easily tunes at 14500 but I'm to chicken to see where it doesn't 4stroke at.
I've had my 90cc saw over 14,400 and still 4-stroking....lowered it to 13500 or so firewood and noodling.
 
My 372 dome piston must have been over 15 at the top of the 4 stroke, I had to put another carb on today and had lots of trimming to do and though it was tac'n' out and poped my muff and thought ,right on, that feels smooth...its got to be doing 16 and as long as the wood stays small, that's were its going to stay
 
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