Saw shed is shaping up!

[Patrick62]

Now I'm thinking about some thin insulation. I can heat it, but it takes a bit of wood. Home brew stove works great. It's a nice cozy place to hang out and fiddle with things.

I made up a couple 28" chains yesterday, got to cut some today.
What makes 33RSK better than 33RS ??
Blocking with 064, and some large pondo. Going thru it like nobody's business.

 

[sundance]

Now I'm thinking about some thin insulation. I can heat it, but it takes a bit of wood. Home brew stove works great. It's a nice cozy place to hang out and fiddle with things.

I made up a couple 28" chains yesterday, got to cut some today.
What makes 33RSK better than 33RS ??
Blocking with 064, and some large pondo. Going thru it like nobody's business.

View attachment 867571View attachment 867572

There's a lot to be said for some insulation. Walls and ceiling.

 

[JimmyT]

Patrick, nice saw shed. Put some bricks or that masonry board behind that wood stove in the corner.

 

[motorhead99999]

It’s a “he saw shed “

Anyways. Look on cL for used rigid board insulation. Also a lot of places near me anyways that sell seconds where the corners are chipped or whatever. Rip it on a table saw to fit between studs.
Commercial Ohd panels that are insulated make nice interiors to and are sometimes easy to find for free.

 

[Patrick62]

he he he, I know. I'll put a hunk of tin behind the stove, someday. however, I have already pushed that stove hard and the wall isn't in danger of catching fire. as for insulation, I was thinking about stapling some cardboard in... or maybe the double bubble stuff. Honestly a roll of ductwrap would be nice.
If I could get it to r-5, it will be fine.

 

[sundance]

he he he, I know. I'll put a hunk of tin behind the stove, someday. however, I have already pushed that stove hard and the wall isn't in danger of catching fire. as for insulation, I was thinking about stapling some cardboard in... or maybe the double bubble stuff. Honestly a roll of ductwrap would be nice.
If I could get it to r-5, it will be fine.

Cardboard? Really? Please shield your "stove" from the walls!

 

[Whiskers]

Seems like you've got it all figured out. Hope you don't burn the place down along with what's nearby. I'm sure the insurance man will understand though.

 

[Jeff Lary]

That's what I use here at home myself I use paper for fire protection as well. I ran out of cardboard last week now I stacked up some newspaper behind it that outta help...

 

[gumneck]

Next thread title: "Saw Shed is Burnt to the ground"
Seriously, maybe the pic is deceiving but stove looks very tight to the wall, Jimmy T above has sound reasonable advice for you.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

It will be fine- just dip the cardboard in paraffin wax before you stack it in between the studs, you know- just to stop the mice chewing it.
Then soak all the exposed timber in kerosene- just to stop any wood boring insects.

Then stoke up the stove, sit back and bask in a job well done!

 

[Patrick62]

Is it "pick on Patrick day" ?
It isn't that tight against the stud walls, and the fire box is a 20# propane cylinder, the pipe is 4 inch. I would estimate the output at maybe double a normal 120V electric heater. Which is enough if the wind ain't blowing.

I will source some sheet steel, and put a barrier between stove and walls. Which might actually radiate heat to me!!!

Part of the issue of insulation is that the infamous chain grinder shoots a bunch of sparks. I might have to barrier that as well. Atleast with exposed OSB I can notice that things are starting to smolder.

The stove is only in use when the operator (completely devoid of common sense) is present.

I might price that big roll of double bubble at the store. I am not sure what shiny chrome walls will look like tho...
Spray glue, or staples...

 

[capetrees]

https://www.hunker.com/13402197/how...t-board-for-a-heat-shield-behind-a-wood-stove

 

[esean]

Rockwool/mineral wool is good insulation AND fireproof, though mice might play in it if uncovered.

 

[Justsaws]

If you cannot insulate and install fire stops and or retardants then you might consider simply giving the osb a few costs of white gloss latex paint. It will help with overall visibility, cut down mold mildew etc., provides a high heat visual indicator, and increases the length of time before that high heat turns into open flame.
Similar effect on cardboard, with things being relative to their burst into flames starting point.

White paint giving the best visual indication of heat saturation, meaning it is much easier to see the white paint turning off white than it is to see the brown osb turning slightly more brown.

 

[North by Northwest]

Rockwool/mineral wool is good insulation AND fireproof, though mice might play in it if uncovered.

Roxal mineral wool is rodent proof , hard on the digestive track , so the mouse whisper says !

 

[North by Northwest]

Next thread title: "Saw Shed is Burnt to the ground"
Seriously, maybe the pic is deceiving but stove looks very tight to the wall, Jimmy T above has sound reasonable advice for you.

Some corrigated roofing or wall sheeting is a cheap fix , also allows a air space between the metal and wood framing and wall sheeting / insulation when proper woodstove clearances are marginal . Also a few cement. Patio stones 24" x 24" under or in front of the stove door will prevent any hot coals or spark issues . Alternately a 36" x 50" sheet of body metal tacked down under the stove will suffice , have fun . Don't know the physical shed interior dimensions however with the uninsulated surface area of the unapproved propane bottle stove and "A" vent piping should heat up well , hope you boxed in and left better air space or shielding at your through roof flue wooden structure area . Better Safe than sorry . P.S. Buy a good door lock to keep you local building inspectors out !

 

[Canyon Angler]

I would consider a metal heat shield crucial, particularly with it that close to the wall...not for insurance purposes (since no insurance carrier would pay a claim on an outlaw propane-bottle "stove" anyway) but because it might prevent the place burning down. In a house, without a heat shield, you can't have a woodstove closer than 36" to the wall, IIRC. It looks like your stove is less than 12" from the wall. And since a propane bottle is so much thinner than any wood stove, it's going to radiate one hell of a lot more heat than any wood stove.

I'd also shield the stack all the way up to the ceiling with it that close to the wall. Sheet metal is cheap ... new sheds and saws, not so much. Also, you want unobstructed air space behind your heat shield to promote convection (moving air to cool the heat shield). You don't want it hard up against the wall...at least an inch hold-off to the wall or whatever is behind it. (with non-flammable spacers in-between) and space underneath to allow cool air to get under it and rise as it gets heated, cooling the heat shield. If you don't ensure convective cooling of the heat shield, it doesn't really do much except "even out" the heating of the substrate through conduction. The wall behind it will still get hot...just more evenly hot.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Just drill and tap a nipple fitting to the top of the old propane bottle so you can rig up a used oil drip feed.
Then you can ramp up the BTU output of the stove and not need insulation.

 

[North by Northwest]

I would consider a metal heat shield crucial, particularly with it that close to the wall...not for insurance purposes (since no insurance carrier would pay a claim on an outlaw propane-bottle "stove" anyway) but because it might prevent the place burning down. In a house, without a heat shield, you can't have a woodstove closer than 36" to the wall, IIRC. It looks like your stove is less than 12" from the wall. And since a propane bottle is so much thinner than any wood stove, it's going to radiate one hell of a lot more heat than any wood stove.

I'd also shield the stack all the way up to the ceiling with it that close to the wall. Sheet metal is cheap ... new sheds and saws, not so much. Also, you want unobstructed air space behind your heat shield to promote convection (moving air to cool the heat shield). You don't want it hard up against the wall...at least an inch hold-off to the wall or whatever is behind it. (with non-flammable spacers in-between) and space underneath to allow cool air to get under it and rise as it gets heated, cooling the heat shield. If you don't ensure convective cooling of the heat shield, it doesn't really do much except "even out" the heating of the substrate through conduction. The wall behind it will still get hot...just more evenly hot.

Excellent post Canyon , you only live once !

 

[PV Hiker]

Might consider how tight you built the shed for combustible air delivery to the stove. Do it safely, protect yourself and investments inside. Not to mention if it did burn down could it also burn down surrounding property? It would be a hassle trying to explain after the event.