School me on carb rebuild kis

[T-Dozzer]

My 066 has several it was made with, but the dealer wants to either replace it or charge me $150 to rebuild it? Seemss outrageous.
Will just any carb kit off Ebay or Amazon work for $15?
Would it helf to attach a pic of the carb i have?
Its a full saw bebuild so trying to keep costs down.

Tyson

 

[HarleyT]

Yes, put up a pic.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

Unless someone put a Bing on it you will need the walbro kit K15-WJ. Husqvarna dealers usually stock them because a few models run a similar WJ carb.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Most modern saws have a pumper diaphragm carburetor. In more than fifty years have yet to see more than one or two carburetors that was different from the rest. They are all the same. An exploded view of all most all carburetors are available online. I keep one or two carb kits for each saw just to have on hand. So that if I have to clean a carb and damage a gasket I will have one on hand. Many carb kits will cover a host of carburetors with just a few extra gaskets. A twenty to thirty year old saw most of the time does not need any thing, but take it apart clean it blow it out reinstall and go cut wood. They have a fine mesh screen that can get plugged up from sawdust to dirt to water and rust. The adjusting needles can get a little rusty or fully gummed up with debris. They have to be clean to run just right. They are simple easy peasy and can be serviced in fifteen minutes. As the saws have progressed manufactures have made them more difficult to get to which is where the work is. Newer saws have a plastic cover over the adjusting screws so they will stay in a certain adjustment range. This has been done so that a saw will often meet EPA standards. I suppose there is a difference from Stihl brand parts to after market parts, but have yet to see any difference. When it comes to cylinders and pistons there are some indication that some are cheaper than others, but have had great results with OEM and after market. For me if I can not easily service a saw in the field then it has no value. However I have not tried to change cranks in the field. Carbs yes. I consider a 066 easy, but definitely more effort than changing carbs on my 076 or 056. Thanks

 

[Cliff R]

They have a fine mesh screen that can get plugged up from sawdust to dirt to water and rust.

+2 on that deal. Restricted fuel supply at the inlet screen will be common especially with older saws that are still seeing a lot of use.

Carburetor rebuilding is relatively easy, but you will run into scenarios where just cleaning/blowing them out woln't work correctly due to dirt/debris trapped under the welch plugs......Cliff

 

[lecbr600]

+2 on that deal. Restricted fuel supply at the inlet screen will be common especially with older saws that are still seeing a lot of use.

Carburetor rebuilding is relatively easy, but you will run into scenarios where just cleaning/blowing them out woln't work correctly due to dirt/debris trapped under the welch plugs......Cliff

Do you have any experience on removing welch plugs? Can you share any usefull advice on this?

Thanks


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[Chainsaw Jim]

With the round welch plugs you can drill a small hole in the center and stop just before breaking through. Then use a metal pick to finish poking through and carefully pry it out. You have less than 1/8" depth on most. Here's a pic of an ms440/460 carb without the plug in place.

 

[T-Dozzer]

Im no expert on carb (or saw repair), but here is the saw in question. Hoping to save some cost as this project is nearing diminishing returns on cost. Hoping a cheap rebuild kit will suffice.
Sorry no dissasembled pics.
1- which carb to i have? ( they put several on these saws)
2- can i get away with a cheap kit or few parts rather than a new carb or $150 rebuild kit from the dealer?

Thanks,

Tyson

 

[T-Dozzer]

Even by looking at the pics, if someone coukd recomend a cheap ebay or amazon kit, that would be great.

 

[SteveSr]

Even by looking at the pics, if someone could recommend a cheap ebay or amazon kit, that would be great.

That is a Walbro WJ69 carb. You want an OEM Walbro kit specific for that model. The correct kit number should be available on Walbro's website. I avoid ALL aftermarket carb kits. The cost difference is insignificant. An OEM kit should be about $10. Once you have it open be sure to spray all of the circuits out with Berryman B-12 spray carb cleaner. You should also find rebuild information on Walbro's web site as well. Also check to make sure that the fuel inlet fitting (white nylon) is NOT cracked and loose. Get out your magnifier. This is a known issue.

 

[T-Dozzer]

That is a Walbro WJ69 carb. You want an OEM Walbro kit specific for that model. The correct kit number should be available on Walbro's website. I avoid ALL aftermarket carb kits. The cost difference is insignificant. An OEM kit should be about $10. Once you have it open be sure to spray all of the circuits out with Berryman B-12 spray carb cleaner. You should also find rebuild information on Walbro's web site as well. Also check to make sure that the fuel inlet fitting (white nylon) is NOT cracked and loose. Get out your magnifier. This is a known issue.

Ok, ill contact then & go from there. Appreciate it. Does the fuel inlet come in the kit or sold seperate if found bad?

 

[DND 9000]

You need the K15WJ repair kit.

 

[Cliff R]

"You want an OEM Walbro kit specific for that model. The correct kit number should be available on Walbro's website. I avoid ALL aftermarket carb kits."

+2 on OEM rebuild kits. I will not use any of the cheap off-shore kits here either. We've been doing this full time since 2003 when I retired from my first job and although we specialize in restoring automotive carburetors we do a LOT of carburetors for small power equipment. To date I've done just about every possible type or model of carburetor at one time or another, and we never use anything but the very highest quality parts in them.

This new fuel is very hard on rubber, neoprene, nitrile and even leather. Case in point, for our carburetor rebuild kits we have custom parts made for them as nothing we've found over the counter or thru our suppliers will hold up in this new fuel. The accl pump cups, for example, are a pretty blue color and dubbed "Viton", but they swell up and fail in contact with ethanol in any percentage.

The pump cups we sell are custom made for us from a very high grade of flouroelastomer, which is basically a flourocarbon based synthetic rubber with high chemical resistance properties. Some companies dubb it as "Viton" which is a trade mark name often miss-used in many industries to boost sales more than anything else (IMHO).

Anyhow, I'm sure for those that have spent much time working on saws you've seen fuel lines completely ate up by this new fuel and carburetor parts as well so it's always best to source out the highest quality parts, if you want things to hold up better in long term service.......Cliff

 

[T-Dozzer]

You need the K15WJ repair kit.

Perfect, you rock. Ill reach out to them and get it ordered! Thanks.

 

[T-Dozzer]

Unless someone put a Bing on it you will need the walbro kit K15-WJ. Husqvarna dealers usually stock them because a few models run a similar WJ carb.

Thanks!

 

[HarleyT]

The elbow is not in the kit.
As far as I know, it is not replaceable

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

Ok, ill contact then & go from there. Appreciate it. Does the fuel inlet come in the kit or sold seperate if found bad?

Judging by your pics I'd say the inlet barb is in good shape and doesn't leak.

Stihl used a handful of different carbs on the 1122 series saws, but all are WJ with the exception of the bing that came on the earlier 064's. The k15 kit I mentioned covers all of them except for the bing carb.
Most think a walbro or zama kit is aftermarket if it says made in China, but that's where most of them are manufactured. Make sure the package actually says walbro.

 

[HarleyT]

He asked about the elbow for a reason.
It is usually bad.

 

[SteveSr]

The elbow is not in the kit.
As far as I know, it is not replaceable

Not included... But they are replaceable! They are brass press fit. Basically destroy the plastic part of the old one and then use a pair of good vice-grips to remove the brass barb. I have so far successfully changed a handfull. I just use the drill press to press the new one in. Luis at Walbro Aftermarket tech support can give you part numbers. I believe Stihl even has some of these available but at 3X the price of Walbro.

 

[HarleyT]

Not included... But they are replaceable! They are brass press fit. Basically destroy the plastic part of the old one and then use a pair of good vice-grips to remove the brass barb. I have so far successfully changed a handfull. I just use the drill press to press the new one in. Luis at Walbro Aftermarket tech support can give you part numbers. I believe Stihl even has some of these available but at 3X the price of Walbro.

No part numbers?
Luis's phone number?