Donnieboy
chainsaw guy
thats what mine looks like too....AV mount on one side....nothing on the otherside. That must me how they come.
Scored my first project saw...Stihl 026 - pics
- Thread starter Jimbo45
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thats what mine looks like too....AV mount on one side....nothing on the otherside. That must me how they come.
Mine is the same.
man i have my buddies 026 i've been meaning to clean up for him in my garage. no rebuild just a carb kit, filters etc. i'll have to reference this thread if i have any questions lol. i know i was confused on how the choke worked, i dunno i'll be back 
Ok, as parts trickled in, I got it almost done the past couple nights. Replaced almost everything needed to make it run like new, and be as reliable, as new. New A/v bushing, cleaned and lubed and rewound the pull start, replaced a missing crankcase screw, added the missing bumper spike, new pre filter, new plug, fixed ragged wiring, set coil gap, new air filter, fixed leaky tank with vent valve, cleaned clutch and brake, fixed stripped muffler bolt and painted muffler, checked all fasteners, new 18" bar and RM chain.
I have a new oem intake boot, fuel hose, impulse line and fuel filter on the way, and after that, it will be done. But, I finished the inspection today, and simply patched the split impulse hose with a length of shrink wrap, until the parts come in, so I could run it today.
Here, I was soldering the new wiring together....
Wiring done....
Crap! When taking the engine out of the tank housing, I noticed this.....looks like someone patched the bottom of the crankcase with JB weld. I wonder if this motor broke a crank or rod at some point, and the case was punched? Man, after all the money and effort to make this saw reliable, now this. Oh well, it seems to be holding up, since it appears to be an older repair. I guess if it lets go at some point, I will have another project, with new cases....
Edit: On second thought, now that I look at the pic of that JB weld, it appears to be too far forward, for a crank/rod failure punch repair. That spot is mainly under the B/C oil tank. I am wondering if that was someone's way of sealing what they thought was an oil gasket leak at the case joint? That would be a better senario. Oh well, I guess I won't know until I have a failure, and I need to get in the cases, whenever that may be....
All done...
I filled it with fresh no ethanol 90 Oct and HP oil, and B/c oil . Set the carb at factory settings and it fired right up! After some tuning, It liked about 3/4 out on L, and 7/8 out on H. Idles like a dream and rips from there!
Someday, it will get replacement cases all painted up pretty, and new crank seals, but I am going to put it to work for now! Thanks for all the help guys!
Before....
After...
I have a new oem intake boot, fuel hose, impulse line and fuel filter on the way, and after that, it will be done. But, I finished the inspection today, and simply patched the split impulse hose with a length of shrink wrap, until the parts come in, so I could run it today.
Here, I was soldering the new wiring together....
Wiring done....
Crap! When taking the engine out of the tank housing, I noticed this.....looks like someone patched the bottom of the crankcase with JB weld. I wonder if this motor broke a crank or rod at some point, and the case was punched? Man, after all the money and effort to make this saw reliable, now this. Oh well, it seems to be holding up, since it appears to be an older repair. I guess if it lets go at some point, I will have another project, with new cases....
Edit: On second thought, now that I look at the pic of that JB weld, it appears to be too far forward, for a crank/rod failure punch repair. That spot is mainly under the B/C oil tank. I am wondering if that was someone's way of sealing what they thought was an oil gasket leak at the case joint? That would be a better senario. Oh well, I guess I won't know until I have a failure, and I need to get in the cases, whenever that may be....
All done...
I filled it with fresh no ethanol 90 Oct and HP oil, and B/c oil . Set the carb at factory settings and it fired right up! After some tuning, It liked about 3/4 out on L, and 7/8 out on H. Idles like a dream and rips from there!
Someday, it will get replacement cases all painted up pretty, and new crank seals, but I am going to put it to work for now! Thanks for all the help guys!
Before....
After...
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DexterDay
Addicted to ArboristSite
Very nice job restoring that saw. Looks 100 times better..
Very nice job and and a very nice saw. Congrats
Very nice job and and a very nice saw. Congrats
How did you make the plastic look new again?
On the white stuff, just a soak and scrub with purple power degreaser ( still looks yellowed a little in person), and with the orange top cover and air filter cover, I disassembled all the small parts from them, scrubbed them with degreaser and alcohol, and sprayed 4 coats of rustoleum (I think) ultra clear which is supposed to be made for plastic and is oil, fuel resistant. I was surprised how well they came out!
duramaxd
ArboristSite Lurker
Looks great
Nice job.
Beware of the flywheel side crank seal as it is the notorious weak point of the 026. If she's idling ok now and the revs aren't running up erratically, you're probably ok. But....
A vac/pressure test will tell the ultimate tale of how well the crank seals are holding up (among other things).
Also, those needle adjustments seem a little lean to me (not turned out CCW far enough) and could spell trouble if you don't have a tach or know quite how to tune by ear yet.
I love both my 026's, but they're temperamental and need the proper attention when they act up.
Sounds like you've done everything to put yours back in order except the most important r&r inspection on any saw getting the treatment you're giving your 026...of all saws...
...a vac/pressure test to ensure the integrity of the crankcase to hold both pressure and vacuum.
Beware of the flywheel side crank seal as it is the notorious weak point of the 026. If she's idling ok now and the revs aren't running up erratically, you're probably ok. But....
A vac/pressure test will tell the ultimate tale of how well the crank seals are holding up (among other things).
Also, those needle adjustments seem a little lean to me (not turned out CCW far enough) and could spell trouble if you don't have a tach or know quite how to tune by ear yet.
I love both my 026's, but they're temperamental and need the proper attention when they act up.
Sounds like you've done everything to put yours back in order except the most important r&r inspection on any saw getting the treatment you're giving your 026...of all saws...
...a vac/pressure test to ensure the integrity of the crankcase to hold both pressure and vacuum.
Yep, that is my only concern.....the seals. I am going to look into acquiring the equipment to test this. Any suggestions for a cheap setup for a hobbyist? I think the carb settings are pretty close, the L was fattened a bit from the strongest idle, and I adjusted the H back until it just fourstroked. I know it could probably be better. I have a tach on the way! So what Rpm am I shooting for with a stock older 026 (well the muffler screen was removed from the old owner)?
Brought the old 026 out saturday, to buck some oak. I burned about a tank of gas, and it ran very strong! I would say it runs stronger than my new ms290! But, it is pulling an 18" b/c and the ms290 wears a 20", so that may be the difference. But, I would say they are pretty close, power wise.
It ran great, but the idle did want to hang a couple times, so I think new crank seals are in order.
I put a new fuel hose/filter, impulse hose, and carb boot on today. So, the only thing left to replace would be the top end and crank bearings and seals. I ran a cold compression test today with a result of 152 PSI cold. So, I expect the top end will last a while. The crank bearings also appear to be good and tight.
So, I ordered both crank seals, and will install them next week. Then, this saw will be my go to saw. I really like the way it handles and cuts!
It ran great, but the idle did want to hang a couple times, so I think new crank seals are in order.
I put a new fuel hose/filter, impulse hose, and carb boot on today. So, the only thing left to replace would be the top end and crank bearings and seals. I ran a cold compression test today with a result of 152 PSI cold. So, I expect the top end will last a while. The crank bearings also appear to be good and tight.
So, I ordered both crank seals, and will install them next week. Then, this saw will be my go to saw. I really like the way it handles and cuts!
Well, Jimbo, I know you already ordered new crank seals, but my experience is that these seldom fail. However, it appears that you like to tinker, so good luck. It's a great saw and will probably last you forever.
Very nice work. I just recently finished an 026 as you but did not get into the athstetics as much. Just a very good cleaning and verify of the mechanics.
My 026 wears a 16" 3/8 chain. Before and after the mm was a world of differnce.
My 026 wears a 16" 3/8 chain. Before and after the mm was a world of differnce.
Those little Homelites use two duckbill valves, one on the side of the fuel tank toward the top and the other on the end of the line going from the crankcase to the oil tank, it helps to pressure the oil tank so it will oil the bar. The one on the fuel tank is used for a vent since the gas cap isn't vented. Stihl uses those screws since they haven't figured out how to vent their tanks.
rallen
ArboristSite Operative
If you do end up replacing the oil seals it is not as difficult as it sounds if you understand what you are trying to pull. I did a post with pics sometime ago about replacing the oils seals on my 026; you might want to look for it to give you a clear idea of how it can be done with a modified screwdriver. Of course, a Lisle seal puller would do the trick, or even better yet, the very nice Stihl seal puller (but very pricey), but the modified screwdriver worked quite well for me.
One other thing to check out before you order seals, if you have not already done so: in all the complete gasket sets I have purchased from Stihl, the oil seals are included, and the cost of the gasket set is less or close to equal the cost of buying the two seals separately. Might as well get the whole set, especially if you think sometime you may split the case.
Robert
One other thing to check out before you order seals, if you have not already done so: in all the complete gasket sets I have purchased from Stihl, the oil seals are included, and the cost of the gasket set is less or close to equal the cost of buying the two seals separately. Might as well get the whole set, especially if you think sometime you may split the case.
Robert
Before I go to the trouble of changing the seals on my 024 I'm going to take a closer look at the intake boot and pulse hose, might save me some work.
Robert, did you have to split the case to change the crank seals? Some people have told me you do..
I'll probably give it a try when the weather around here warms up. I acquired a spare engine crankcase since mine is partially eaten up with corrosion. Former owner must have stored this saw in his cellar or something.
