Yeah, generally I would agree that fans are not the right way to go, unless you are trying to dry wood in the Pacific northwest in the winter rains! They cause the surface to dry too quickly relative to the inside of the wood, so you can actually cause splitting, warping, etc.
But you did say that you have your stack in the shop already. The problem with drying in an enclosed space is that the moisture can't escape readily enough from that space. Unless the room is huge the air will quickly get saturated with moisture. The fans won't help, they just blow the moist air around and you will probably find mold developing, especially on the sapwood. Worse, all your other tools will start to rust.
As Bryan suggested, stack it outside to dry. Weigh it down, and cover just the top with something other than a tarp to keep the rain out. A sheet of old ply, some corrugated plastic, etc. Let the wind and air circulate freely through the stack.
Once the moisture content is down to ten-ish percent, then you can consider taking it back inside to equalize it before you use it. 1 3/4" is not that different from 1 1/2", just means it'll need a little longer to dry.
It is good that you have not seen any cracking in the wood yet, perhaps the fact that the tree was dead for six years helps. I think that the moisture content already being down to 25% may be a sign that the wood came to you somewhat dry. If so, you may be golden as most splitting/warping etc happens at the start of the drying process.
I would at least seal the ends if you have not done so. It takes little time. A couple coats of old latex is good enough.
Keep your eye on the sapwood too, I find that is where cracking tends to start in cherry, more so on thicker pieces than thinner like yours though.
