I was quoted $50 shipped for a 52mm 046 piston, pin, clips, and rings. It was the most pleasant surprise I've had this week
scoring in 046....how bad is this
- Thread starter PaulB84
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I was quoted $50 shipped for a 52mm 046 piston, pin, clips, and rings. It was the most pleasant surprise I've had this week
Nice!!!
Paul.
an 046 is about a great and easy of a saw to learn on as there is.
you'll have a great saw for $450 at most when your all in from what I see now.( and I aint seen the cyl yet but looking at the piston leaves little indication the cyl is farked)
and you'll be able to tell your "in the know" friends you did it with some of the best help in the country....
when you get stuck pop back in and drop some pics for the gang. we like pics.
go over to the "beg for manuals" thread and ask for the IPL and service manual. give it a read and go.
an 046 is about a great and easy of a saw to learn on as there is.
you'll have a great saw for $450 at most when your all in from what I see now.( and I aint seen the cyl yet but looking at the piston leaves little indication the cyl is farked)
and you'll be able to tell your "in the know" friends you did it with some of the best help in the country....
when you get stuck pop back in and drop some pics for the gang. we like pics.
go over to the "beg for manuals" thread and ask for the IPL and service manual. give it a read and go.
The op sounds like a good candidate for a copy of mediacat. If you don't know what mediacat is, you want it. Ipl's, shop manuals, etc. send me a pm with your address and I will get one out to you.
cedarshark
Addicted to ArboristSite
I agree and Angelo has given you some helpful hints. As you are reading the service manual, dont be intimidated by what appears to be the need for a bunch of specialized tools. Most of the work ahead of you can be completed with hand tools found in most toolboxes of someone prepared to do this level of work.
If your not familiar with removing transfer, this may be of some assistance. I used a piece of dowel rod with a slit cut length way and inserted progressively smoother sandpaper and emery cloth to clean a few (chucked into a drill)... I think the guy in the video is new at saws though so you may want to proceed with caution..
A split mandrel flap sander also works on a drill press. I use three grits, starting at 150 and finishing at 400. I made my own flap sanders with 7/16" dowel rods and nylon line on the end to secure the paper. Amazing how log they last. I usually finish up with 400 grit finger sanding while watching a ball game. Beats the heck out of smokin' cigarettes.
Sure thing.
Tried to get everything, if anyone wants to see something more specifically let me know. Based on my very limited knowledge I'd say the piston is toast but cylinder simple has aluminum transfer, can't see any actual scoring on the cylinder walls. Wrist pin, needle bearing, gasket, impulse line and rubber carb boot all look to be in great shape. Will examine further later but for now my money is on poor tuning, dirty air filter, and/or bad gas/oil mixture. Thanks fellahs.
Tractorsaw1
ArboristSite Guru
1 things for certain Paul, if you decide you don't want to clean off the transfer from that cylinder, I am sure someone here would make you an offer for it. 
1 things for certain Paul, if you decide you don't want to clean off the transfer from that cylinder, I am sure someone here would make you an offer for it.
Forget that noise, this is more fun than the cutting!
drf255
BAD CAD
I know everyone here hates acid, but I'd carefully try in on that. Just be careful if theres a chip anywhere, especially by a port. It will undermine the chip and ruin the jug.
bikemike
loud pipes save lives
When it is all back together run no less than 40 to 1 mix and from the pics it looked like it was a bit lean and run hard on cold start up
Hey bike.mike can you elaborate? Not trying to be argumentative, genuinely curious
I agree it was prob run lean and too hard out of the cut. Why once its got new parts would I run 40:1? I've read that running rich can cause just as many problems as lean. Carbon scoring etc.
I agree it was prob run lean and too hard out of the cut. Why once its got new parts would I run 40:1? I've read that running rich can cause just as many problems as lean. Carbon scoring etc.
I think acid would be a better idea on that one. Dump some into a pop bottle cap. I use a small piece of old fuel line and hold my finger over the end of it, making a vacuum, to get it from there to the inside of the cylinder. Doesn't take much. Get a couple drops in there and move and scrape it around with a screwdriver. If it quits bubbling, either the aluminum is gone or you need more acid. But like drf255 said, keep it out of the ports. That one looks minor to me and should clean up without sanding much or even at all. And I agree on the oil ratio. I run 3 oz/gallon (which is about 42:1. I'm not gonna talk brands) and in 30 years I've never burned one up. I can't wrap my head around anything over 50:1 regardless of what's advertised. Good luck with it
MarylandGuy
ArboristSite Operative
I just rebuilt an MS440 which is similar in construction. The only tool I didn't have in my box was a T27 Torx long enough to pull the four cylinder bolts. I think most here use a T-handle Torx for the job. I was in a hurry and didn't want to wait for one to come in off the net, so I bought a standard drive from NAPA Autoparts instead. It worked perfect, but if you have time go for the T-handle. Here is the NAPA part:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...ocket-T27-Long-Star/_/R-CHQS38LT27_0151353511
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...ocket-T27-Long-Star/_/R-CHQS38LT27_0151353511
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I also didn't have a t handle 27 long enough to pull the cylinder bolts. My stihl screntch was too wide. I had a long enough #27 torx bit but wasnt about to use an impact driver to undo something I've never messed with. Picked up a no name t27 from the local stihl dealer. He initially tried to sell me the same wrench combo I already had an insisted it would work. Reason number 4 I'll never go there w questions again, only to pick up a part.
Acid vs grinding...seems like theres far more margin for error w grinding. Again, I'm just a noob but my instincts have served me well so far.
As far as oil mix goes I'll wait for someone else to chime in but new stihl platinum comes at 2.5 oz per gallon which comes to about 49:1. While richer may be better to a point I'd rather run the correct mix and make the adjustments at the carb
My opinion is worth exactly what you paid for it....
Acid vs grinding...seems like theres far more margin for error w grinding. Again, I'm just a noob but my instincts have served me well so far.
As far as oil mix goes I'll wait for someone else to chime in but new stihl platinum comes at 2.5 oz per gallon which comes to about 49:1. While richer may be better to a point I'd rather run the correct mix and make the adjustments at the carb
My opinion is worth exactly what you paid for it....
Q-tips work real well for applying the acid solution. Have some water and baking soda solution handy in case you get any in a port or spill. Wear safety goggles too.
Alternate the acid with some sanding with wet/dry paper and detergent solution as any carbon or oily residue won't let the acid do it's job. Rinse out the acid before any sanding.
Alternate the acid with some sanding with wet/dry paper and detergent solution as any carbon or oily residue won't let the acid do it's job. Rinse out the acid before any sanding.
MarylandGuy
ArboristSite Operative
I wanted to avoid acid if I could, especially after viewing Randy's video above using sandpaper. Not knocking acid, but I figured if something else would work, that might be easier. I bought a 1-1/2 in. Cylinder Buff Bob from Harbor Freight that worked so well, you would have thought it was designed for the MS440's particular bore size. Considering your bore is slightly larger than mine, this product should work great for you as well.
My cylinder wasn't too bad, so I skipped the sandpaper step and went straight to a heavy duty scotchbright pad from Home Depot, wrapped around the Buff Bob. I then spun it with a drill inside the cylinder. Talk about perfect. The previously scored cylinder had a mirror finish when I was done. Here you go:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-2-half-inch-x-2-inch-cylinder-buff-65000.html
My cylinder wasn't too bad, so I skipped the sandpaper step and went straight to a heavy duty scotchbright pad from Home Depot, wrapped around the Buff Bob. I then spun it with a drill inside the cylinder. Talk about perfect. The previously scored cylinder had a mirror finish when I was done. Here you go:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-2-half-inch-x-2-inch-cylinder-buff-65000.html
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bikemike
loud pipes save lives
More oil in the gas will lubricate the engine better less friction on the rings when running hard and bearings too. The downside of more oil is youl need to clean ur screen more often if you have one in it. And spark plugs get carboned up faster. Those are cheep vs say a jug piston rings bearings then the gasket kit needed when those parts are replaced
