Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Not much difference in smaller wood, both are great saws for your use. The biggest difference to me is the dolmar has bigger dawgs than the 365 at least here in the states. When you get into wood over 20" and have a bar length greater than 24 then the 7910 will start to gain a little. I don't think of the dolmar as performing as well as a 79cc saw should, that doesn't mean I don't like them though :D.
You would most likely notice more of a difference based on the chain type or condition in up to 20" green wood.
If we can be honest here the small amount of gain can easily made up by the way we process the wood as in hauling/splitting/stacking, besides is a few seconds a cut on 50 larger cuts a year going to net you much time saved o_O.
Think of how long it takes to restock a pile of wood that tips over :innocent:.
The 2166 is the same basic saw as the 365XT, but in a red wrapper with a straight handle ;).


Stock 7910 with a 20" round filed chain.

Ported 372 xtorq which is the same 71cc cylinder on the 365xt.
 
Free wood courtesy of the township. Any idea on species? Seems light and if decent, I may return to grab the rest.

100% silver maple - which is a fast growing and soft maple. They can be curly and you can make nice things from it, though it's density is pretty low so as a firewood it is not good unless you're cold.

I find lots of people around here putting lots of silver in and selling it as mixed hardwoods. It is hardwood, but if it isnt very dry it is a waste. Maybe a shoulder wood at best.
 
That's my understanding, 365 is the same exact saw as the 372 but with stuffers in the transfers, which are easily removed.
Here the 365 has smaller dawgs and different top covers/air filter ie high top on the 372 and low top on the 365.
You say easily removed, yes, by pulling the jug and then removing the caps(after purchasing a safety torx bit), and then grinding the small piece of aluminum baffle(not a stuffer) out of the cover and then repeating the process in reverse, it's easy. I have a friend who is a mechanic, if you ask him if a job is hard he will say no, it just takes longer lol. So now you have the transfers removed after an hr or two, what is the ROI on doing it, you save a few seconds a cut on 20" wood and larger, you may "pay" for the mod in a couple years, but you've also lost any warranty you gained buying a new saw. Also don't forget I didn't even get into the time it takes to remove the carb limiters and retune the saw(tuning the saw should be done anyway, but).
Don't get me wrong, it's all fun and games and as a hobby sure you can do it, but the actual amount of time saved for most firewooders is minimal at best.
 
Here the 365 has smaller dawgs and different top covers/air filter ie high top on the 372 and low top on the 365.
You say easily removed, yes, by pulling the jug and then removing the caps(after purchasing a safety torx bit), and then grinding the small piece of aluminum baffle out of the cover and then repeating the process in reverse, it's easy. I have a friend who is a mechanic, if you ask him if a job is hard he will say no, it just takes longer lol. So now you have the transfers removed after an hr or two, what is the ROI on doing it, you save a few seconds a cut on 20" wood and larger, you may "pay" for the mod in a couple years, but you've also lost any warranty you gained buying a new saw. Also don't forget I didn't even get into the time it takes to remove the carb limiters and retune the saw(tuning the saw should be done anyway, but).
Don't get me wrong, it's all fun and games and as a hobby sure you can do it, but the actual amount of time saved for most firewooders is minimal at best.
Man! Do you know how to take the fun out of working on saws!:buttkick::crazy2::hi: You are correct, but come on!
 
Errrr, where did i say i'd do it? I don't recall advocating doing it at all.
Never said you did :popcorn2:.
now this is why i'm talking saws here, not in the saw section. here is honest views expressed well, saw section is.....different.
Just figured I'd speak some honest views :), did I not express them well :oops:.
 
Chipper brings up some good points. Even if it’s kind of party pooper-ish in our more is better world. ;)

In the past month I’ve helped friends and family clear some big trees with little saws, which were the only thing available at the time. I’ve cut a couple of 30” trees with 35-42 cc saws and several trees over 20”. The main time killer with yard trees is cleanup, not the bucking cuts.

While it’s certainly not advisable for cutting all day every day, if you have an occasional big tree you certainly can tackle it with a smaller saw. And the actually difference in time spent bucking is minimal when you are looking one cc class up or down.
 
I cut over 30 cord with my poulan pro 5020. Whole trees 30”+ ash and elm and maple. It doesn’t have the snap of a 50cc pro saw but it will pull 70 links of 3/8 full chisel in hardwood if I use a sane amount of pressure. $220 brand new vs 800 for a 261/550. If I had money for a brand new firewood saw, I’d honestly take a hard look at the Stihl 362 or the 562 husky. That 365xt is a great bargain however and I challenge you to find a “dang I wish I’d bought a 372 instead” thread. Mine was a full time forestry saw for 3 years before I got it, I used for 3 years and sold it for what I paid for it.
 
The biggest problem I see with the cheap poulans is the average person that buys one doesn't know how to maintain it. Give these same people any "pro" saw and it would suffer the same fate.
Oh yeah. Poor gas, cheap oil, no bar oil, and running with a chain so dull you can’t throw powder.
 
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