Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[Ambull01]

this will go against the "grain" of what most say but i had access to some W O tops that were cut late spring 2014. i cut them in Oct. and split some in Dec. checked the with the meter last week and they were running in the 12-16 % range.just threw some in the stove a few minutes ago. your results may vary depending on the type of saw you use.

Thank you sir. Sounds like it may be ready for me next year when I start burning. I don't have a Stihl though so it may be have a bit more moisture content.

 

[SteveSS]

Lot's of variables in play there also. How big are the trees and/or rounds? Tops or trunks? How big will the splits be? How long dead standing or on the ground? Etc....

I cut a dead standing W.O. this past summer that was still a bit green and you can knock the splits together now and they have a nice ring to them. I'm burning them now also. I think some folks have a tendency to over-exaggerate the drying time of oak. Either that, or they're cutting live trees and really need the extra dry time. I try not to cut live trees.

P.s.
My Makita is here. I haven't had the chance to cut anything with it yet, but I've started it and piss revved it a few times. It's a beast!

 

[Ambull01]

Lot's of variables in play there also. How big are the trees and/or rounds? Tops or trunks? How big will the splits be? How long dead standing or on the ground? Etc....

I cut a dead standing W.O. this past summer that was still a bit green and you can knock the splits together now and they have a nice ring to them. I'm burning them now also. I think some folks have a tendency to over-exaggerate the drying time of oak. Either that, or they're cutting live trees and really need the extra dry time. I try not to cut live trees.

P.s.
My Makita is here. I haven't had the chance to cut anything with it yet, but I've started it and piss revved it a few times. It's a beast!

Yep, variables every where. I'm hoping these things are huge suckers. Hopefully I'll have to quarter the things because they're so massive. I want an excuse and a definite location every week to run the Makita.

How long was it dead standing? If you know. If you ever read about seasoned white oak on hearth you'll be convinced it needs 2-3 years to cure. I totally understand it's best to get the pieces really dry but come on now! 2-3 years is crazy. There has to be some kind of law of diminishing returns that applies to seasoned firewood.

Awesome!!! I hope you keep me/us updated on how you like it. The BBK/79 OEM kit will probably be my next and last chainsaw related purchase (not counting b&c oil, 2 cycle oil, chains, etc).

 

[zogger]

Yep, variables every where. I'm hoping these things are huge suckers. Hopefully I'll have to quarter the things because they're so massive. I want an excuse and a definite location every week to run the Makita.

How long was it dead standing? If you know. If you ever read about seasoned white oak on hearth you'll be convinced it needs 2-3 years to cure. I totally understand it's best to get the pieces really dry but come on now! 2-3 years is crazy. There has to be some kind of law of diminishing returns that applies to seasoned firewood.

Awesome!!! I hope you keep me/us updated on how you like it. The BBK/79 OEM kit will probably be my next and last chainsaw related purchase (not counting b&c oil, 2 cycle oil, chains, etc).

My various oaks here will burn after a full good long summer and fall of drying, well stacked...but they burn much mo bettah after two summers. Much mo'.

 

[wudpirat]

Totaly agree with you SteveSS, you left out one variable, Do you need to burn it now ?
The last maple I scrounged, three months ago, is going into the stove right now.
It was half dead, rotten core, split it small, 3"x4" size and stacked it loose with a cover to keep off the rain.
My mm says it's 14-19%, close enough, works fine on a bed of hot coals.

Hey Reid, many years of practice, being a good BSer doesn't come easy. Many Thursdays at the gun club, solving the world's problems helps hone the delivery. A good joke. told properly also helps. ie
Have you heard the story of "Just Fred?" or the Nun at the airport? The guy in a terrible auto accedent asking for a preist and all that could be found was a Rabbi ?
Told properly, each will make you wet yourself.
Now where wus I going with this ???

 

[MustangMike]

White Oak dries faster than Red Oak, U will be fine for next year.

 

[Ambull01]

My various oaks here will burn after a full good long summer and fall of drying, well stacked...but they burn much mo bettah after two summers. Much mo'.

See now that's what gets me. Keep thinking blank species of firewood will be good to go in blank months/year(s) but it will be so much better after whathaveyou. Sooo, I know I COULD burn it in X amount of time but I can't help wondering what it will be like if I waited.

 

[MustangMike]

It depends on the type of wood, how big U split it, how you stack it, where you stack it (sun or shade), etc, etc.

You are looking for answers on one can give you, but experience will teach you.

Also, the design of your wood stove will impact how well it digests things.

You can use some modestly seasoned Ash as a baseline of what it should do.

 

[zogger]

See now that's what gets me. Keep thinking blank species of firewood will be good to go in blank months/year(s) but it will be so much better after whathaveyou. Sooo, I know I COULD burn it in X amount of time but I can't help wondering what it will be like if I waited.

Once you start burning and see what happens with your various species and sizes and length of time they dried..you'll get it.

I made an effort to get multiple years ahead, so now, no worries, anything I grab to go in the stove is about as dry as I can get it here. Still fun to check progress with the magic meter, but two years or better, it's all dry enough.

 

[Jakers]

Ambull, the best thing you could possibly do is to find as dry of wood as possible to burn this and next year. then experiment with the "green" stuff. see what burns when and what just sizzles in the stove. if you try to stay 2 years ahead on wood youll soon not remember what its even like to burn less than seasoned wood. i personally have burnt every species of local hardwood within one year of cutting. when its dry i think nothing of it but if i get some wet stuff in there, im cussing trying to get it to light. burr oak (close to white oak) will burn in one year but not very well. red oak the same. ash i can cut in the spring and burn in the fall easily as long as its split for a month or two of the warmer season. Elm i can cut and split standing green in mid june and burn it in september without a problem

 

[MustangMike]

Some pics of the addl 10" we got today, glad I got that ATV & plow this year! I plowed about 8" this morning, and it was still coming down at 3:00 when pics were taken.

 

[Greenthorn]

Once you start burning and see what happens with your various species and sizes and length of time they dried..you'll get it.

I made an effort to get multiple years ahead, so now, no worries, anything I grab to go in the stove is about as dry as I can get it here. Still fun to check progress with the magic meter, but two years or better, it's all dry enough.

The only 3 trees I make sure is 2 years is Osage, Mulberry and Locust. Other than that 4-6 months seems to be good enough for most other live trees. I cut very few live trees, most deadwood I cut can be burned 1-2 weeks after splitting (usually elms ash and cherry around here) I never have had a creosote or smoke problem and that's how I've done it. Seems to work for me.

 

[dancan]

Moved a bunch of snow with the little Bota after supper , 8° out there and ice pellets coming down like rain .
Spoused to shoot up to 33° after midnight and turn to rain then drop to 8° by 8:00am
I hope the week comes around to some scrounging weather for this weekend .
I'd hate to miss a weekend .

 

[mainewoods]

The only scrounging going on around here are the deer and turkey's. Over 50" in the last 10 days has put a damper on gettin' much wood out.

 

[mainewoods]

I did get 'em trained to make me some skiddah trails though. They eat the tops almost as fast as I drop 'em.

 

[MustangMike]

Clint, I think those are your pets!!!

 

[Ambull01]

It depends on the type of wood, how big U split it, how you stack it, where you stack it (sun or shade), etc, etc.

You are looking for answers on one can give you, but experience will teach you.

Also, the design of your wood stove will impact how well it digests things.

You can use some modestly seasoned Ash as a baseline of what it should do.

Roger that. I realize there are many variables involved but I was looking for a modest opinion on the issue. Seems like the Hearth site is filled with seasoned wood Nazis where the popular opinion is to season oak for at least 2 years but 3 is the number to shoot for. I was only looking for white oak since that's what the lady supposedly has.

Once you start burning and see what happens with your various species and sizes and length of time they dried..you'll get it.

I made an effort to get multiple years ahead, so now, no worries, anything I grab to go in the stove is about as dry as I can get it here. Still fun to check progress with the magic meter, but two years or better, it's all dry enough.

I've used the insert a few times to experiment. Seems like all the wood I have is too wet. It's a freaking pain to get started and it takes way too long before I can turn down the primary air. I have to drop the primary down by 1/8ths at a time vice 1/4. To get the red oak going I absolutely have to put in poplar and place the oak splits to the rear of the firebox. Even with the poplar in there I still struggle a bit to get it going. A few times I've felt like throwing the splits through the window. The poplar sat too long in my in-laws field so there was a ring of rot around the outer edges of the rounds. That rot is like a sponge now and soaks up a ton of moisture. I'm kind of pissed off at my in-laws for telling us we could burn that stuff this year.

Ambull, the best thing you could possibly do is to find as dry of wood as possible to burn this and next year. then experiment with the "green" stuff. see what burns when and what just sizzles in the stove. if you try to stay 2 years ahead on wood youll soon not remember what its even like to burn less than seasoned wood. i personally have burnt every species of local hardwood within one year of cutting. when its dry i think nothing of it but if i get some wet stuff in there, im cussing trying to get it to light. burr oak (close to white oak) will burn in one year but not very well. red oak the same. ash i can cut in the spring and burn in the fall easily as long as its split for a month or two of the warmer season. Elm i can cut and split standing green in mid june and burn it in september without a problem

Thanks. I have about 2 cords of sugar maple I split up and stacked for next year. I want to get about 2 more cords of pine or another fast drying species to get through the shoulder season and use the maple for the meat of winter. That will probably get me through the whole chilly season. I'll save the white oak and let it sit 2 years.

The only 3 trees I make sure is 2 years is Osage, Mulberry and Locust. Other than that 4-6 months seems to be good enough for most other live trees. I cut very few live trees, most deadwood I cut can be burned 1-2 weeks after splitting (usually elms ash and cherry around here) I never have had a creosote or smoke problem and that's how I've done it. Seems to work for me.

Nice, 4-6 months is great.

 

[svk]

Roger that. I realize there are many variables involved but I was looking for a modest opinion on the issue. Seems like the Hearth site is filled with seasoned wood Nazis where the popular opinion is to season oak for at least 2 years but 3 is the number to shoot for. I was only looking for white oak since that's what the lady supposedly has.




I've used the insert a few times to experiment. Seems like all the wood I have is too wet. It's a freaking pain to get started and it takes way too long before I can turn down the primary air. I have to drop the primary down by 1/8ths at a time vice 1/4. To get the red oak going I absolutely have to put in poplar and place the oak splits to the rear of the firebox. Even with the poplar in there I still struggle a bit to get it going. A few times I've felt like throwing the splits through the window. The poplar sat too long in my in-laws field so there was a ring of rot around the outer edges of the rounds. That rot is like a sponge now and soaks up a ton of moisture. I'm kind of pissed off at my in-laws for telling us we could burn that stuff this year.



Thanks. I have about 2 cords of sugar maple I split up and stacked for next year. I want to get about 2 more cords of pine or another fast drying species to get through the shoulder season and use the maple for the meat of winter. That will probably get me through the whole chilly season. I'll save the white oak and let it sit 2 years.



Nice, 4-6 months is great.

Wood nazis LOL.

Fortunately most of those type left AS. I remember a few more surly dudes when I joined 6 years ago, maybe they migrated to hearth lol.

 

[MustangMike]

Find some Ash, it is about the easiest Hardwood to dry, and will light about everything else. Up at the cabin, we depend on it when you get up there in the freezing cold and need to get a fire going. It is also very humid up there, and most wood just does not dry until you bring it in the cabin and leave it near the fire. We always leave a supply inside, for starting the next fire, along with some birch bark. It is also easy to split Ash thin when you need to.

We only use the Cherry & Hard Maple after the fire is really rolling, and often we only burn Ash.

 

[Ambull01]

Wood nazis LOL.

Fortunately most of those type left AS. I remember a few more surly dudes when I joined 6 years ago, maybe they migrated to hearth lol.

Seriously. Go to Hearth and read about seasoning. Also read about wood stove installation. I know a proper setup is paramount and the consequences of shoddy installations can be catastrophic but they will make you think the northern lights can be seen in every town/city because of all the homes burning to the ground. If most "seasoned firewood" people try to sell is above 20% mc, majority of people have no clue how to properly operate a wood stove, and a lot of installations are not exactly up to code I would think whole streets would be going up in flames every year.

Find some Ash, it is about the easiest Hardwood to dry, and will light about everything else. Up at the cabin, we depend on it when you get up there in the freezing cold and need to get a fire going. It is also very humid up there, and most wood just does not dry until you bring it in the cabin and leave it near the fire. We always leave a supply inside, for starting the next fire, along with some birch bark. It is also easy to split Ash thin when you need to.

We only use the Cherry & Hard Maple after the fire is really rolling, and often we only burn Ash.

Will do, thanks. I may have some ash mixed in with the maple. So far I've learned I really need a super dry storage area for splits I'm about to throw into the stove. Sooo, from reading about wood drying methods from an Alaskan experiment, I'm going to top cover my splits with plywood and stack them somewhere that receives the full force of winds/sun. I'll convert my current little shed to a wood shed for splits about to come into the house to burn (probably keep a cord in there that's fully seasoned) and keep about 3 days supply of splits in the house near the stove (I converted a portion of a attached book case structure to a firewood holder).