Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Made lots of chips tonight trying to get a good supply built up. First year at the new place with a few ash and elm already down to burn.
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Looks great I'm following your trailer post. Will be cool seeing how that turns out. Could see in the future adding leaf springs by welding the shackles and juse drop the axles.
 
Any opinions on Muck boots? Specifically for keeping your feet warm?
https://www.bekina-boots.com/en-gb/...hield-steel-toe-cap-and-midsole-s5-green~155/
That's my goto winter boot .
Plenty of room in the boot is key .
I've had the Dunlop purofort winters , they were almost as comfortable and warm but ice traction is way better with my Bekinas .
Looking at the Dunlop website I see that they have changed the tread pattern on the soles so the new ones may be better on ice .
If you get Bama socks put them on to try the new boot before purchase .
https://www.amazon.com/bama-socks/s?k=bama+socksThey wick moisture away from your feet but get a couple of pair because they will need to be changed out through the day .
 
Did I read the OP wrong? I was talking about cooling system flush.
Yes, I flushed the oil. Wynn's is I believe lots of detergents. It's aimed at shifting varnish and sludge. My car has only every had good oil and changed often.. Except this last time, should be sludge free but every engine will build vanish I guess. Mine has also always run at higher oil temps than most (Based on me asking on an owner's forum). Owner's manual says don't push on until oil at 80C so I take that as bottom end of operating range, the oil is good to 130C but VW put the engine into limp mode to protect itself at 120C. From New mine used to settle at 101-103C. Over the years this had climbed, usually stepping up after an oil change oddly, and it pre flush settled at 108-110C. I wasn't sure the cause and actually thought it more likely that the sensor was drifting out than an oil problem. I tried the flush just because..... You know, you get an idea to try, can't hurt, a can is £6 and few in this case so what the heck. Well now the oil temp is settling at 98-104.C. So back to where it was and it goes up and down much much quicker dependingding on if I'm coasting or climbing a hill or.. I wonder if the oil cooler inlet valve was getting sticky and is now free again? No idea really. Any how, use is easy, get oil hot and ready to drain, switch off and add the Wynn's, idle or fast idle for 20 mins, drain.

Oh and I've heard little using diesel as a flush, that won't shift any non gas soluble varnishes but probably shifts some sludge.

It's definitely done something although I'll never know what or if it was a help, but I've bought 2 cans and will do my wife's car and my own again next oil changes. After that we will see but I'll probably not do it more than every other oil change, at most. Wynn's suggest using every change, but then they would.
 
Almost need 2 stoves....or a variable displacement firebox (Jeff off to the patent office!). -20C/-4F which my stove handles fine but you can cook yourself out when it's closer to freezing out. Also the stove is more efficient with a full load of wood. I can put a load in and damp it for a good secondary burn and it will keep it warm all day. If I burn a smaller load, I have to keep the damper open further and burn the same amount of wood during a warmer day.

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That's about it, and with the pellet stove we have that option. If I would have fire that up at midnight and burned it until 8 this morning that would have burned 1/3 of a bag(maybe $2 worth) and I could have burned the stove at moderate temps instead of cranking out the heat. I loaded the stove around 12:45am and checked it at 7:45, I had a lot of very large coals(typical of black locust), I raked the coals to the front and opened the damper wide open and let it rip for another hr, raked the coals forward again and let it rip. At 8:40 I spread the coals out and reloaded with black locust, let it rip until 9 and then shut the damper. Its chugging along at 650f and will run like that for about 4hrs and then taper off to 350-400 for 3-4 hrs. Its great when 20f out, just not these temps, the lowest I saw here this morning was 1f.
What stove do you have, ours is a Pacific Energy alderney with the medium sized firebox, made on your side of the big puddle.
That's how ideas get turned into products, while I'd typically say go for it, dealing with the epa(or whatever it's called there) doesn't sound like a fun process/ project.
I've burned quite a bit of wood here already, smaller loads with the draft open longer, usually until you get coals so it doesn't smoke, aren't very efficient. A smaller burn chamber is more efficient in most all combustion engines (which is how I describe a woodstove), maybe a woodstove on one side and a cookstove on the other, wait they already did that lol.
 
Is this the new oil thread ?

View attachment 956760

Summer oil that was on clearance at carquest for 4$ a gallon , I bought the 6 cases that they had in stock .
Works just fine during our Igloo summer lol
I usually get the stuff from TSC or Farm home garden for summer. haven't found a really great winter one I've been using husky winter mix at least until I find a better one.
 
Is this the new oil thread ?

View attachment 956760

Summer oil that was on clearance at carquest for 4$ a gallon , I bought the 6 cases that they had in stock .
Works just fine during our Igloo summer lol
Nice.
I haven't seen a deal on bar oil all yr, the last case I bought was 12 a gallon and that was cheaper oil.
I don't see it going down in the future, may have to look into buying a 55 gallon barrel lol.
 
Summer oil that was on clearance at carquest for 4$ a gallon , I bought the 6 cases that they had in stock .

Nice.
I haven't seen a deal on bar oil all yr, the last case I bought was 12 a gallon and that was cheaper oil.
I know! I had to check the carquest website to see if they had a similar clearance locally. Doesn't look good, though the website is lousy.
 
That's about it, and with the pellet stove we have that option. If I would have fire that up at midnight and burned it until 8 this morning that would have burned 1/3 of a bag(maybe $2 worth) and I could have burned the stove at moderate temps instead of cranking out the heat. I loaded the stove around 12:45am and checked it at 7:45, I had a lot of very large coals(typical of black locust), I raked the coals to the front and opened the damper wide open and let it rip for another hr, raked the coals forward again and let it rip. At 8:40 I spread the coals out and reloaded with black locust, let it rip until 9 and then shut the damper. Its chugging along at 650f and will run like that for about 4hrs and then taper off to 350-400 for 3-4 hrs. Its great when 20f out, just not these temps, the lowest I saw here this morning was 1f.
What stove do you have, ours is a Pacific Energy alderney with the medium sized firebox, made on your side of the big puddle.
That's how ideas get turned into products, while I'd typically say go for it, dealing with the epa(or whatever it's called there) doesn't sound like a fun process/ project.
I've burned quite a bit of wood here already, smaller loads with the draft open longer, usually until you get coals so it doesn't smoke, aren't very efficient. A smaller burn chamber is more efficient in most all combustion engines (which is how I describe a woodstove), maybe a woodstove on one side and a cookstove on the other, wait they already did that lol.
I wonder how a bigger woodstove would do if you added a row of fire brick during the shoulder seasons. It would effectively have a smaller firebox. Would that upset the combustion in an EPA stove?
 
https://www.bekina-boots.com/en-gb/...hield-steel-toe-cap-and-midsole-s5-green~155/
That's my goto winter boot .
Plenty of room in the boot is key .
I've had the Dunlop purofort winters , they were almost as comfortable and warm but ice traction is way better with my Bekinas .
Looking at the Dunlop website I see that they have changed the tread pattern on the soles so the new ones may be better on ice .
If you get Bama socks put them on to try the new boot before purchase .
https://www.amazon.com/bama-socks/s?k=bama+socksThey wick moisture away from your feet but get a couple of pair because they will need to be changed out through the day .
Thanks Dan! You still cutting wood? Miss your pictures and stories.
 
The deal on the bar lube was not an advertised deal .
The sales rep gave me a list of chem/oil that was on clearance and I spotted the bar lube .
They still had bar lube in stock at the regular price .
Discontinued sku is what the rep told me .
You had me at clearance and then even added discontinued to seal the deal! :heart:
 
Yes, I flushed the oil. Wynn's is I believe lots of detergents. It's aimed at shifting varnish and sludge. My car has only every had good oil and changed often.. Except this last time, should be sludge free but every engine will build vanish I guess. Mine has also always run at higher oil temps than most (Based on me asking on an owner's forum). Owner's manual says don't push on until oil at 80C so I take that as bottom end of operating range, the oil is good to 130C but VW put the engine into limp mode to protect itself at 120C. From New mine used to settle at 101-103C. Over the years this had climbed, usually stepping up after an oil change oddly, and it pre flush settled at 108-110C. I wasn't sure the cause and actually thought it more likely that the sensor was drifting out than an oil problem. I tried the flush just because..... You know, you get an idea to try, can't hurt, a can is £6 and few in this case so what the heck. Well now the oil temp is settling at 98-104.C. So back to where it was and it goes up and down much much quicker dependingding on if I'm coasting or climbing a hill or.. I wonder if the oil cooler inlet valve was getting sticky and is now free again? No idea really. Any how, use is easy, get oil hot and ready to drain, switch off and add the Wynn's, idle or fast idle for 20 mins, drain.

Oh and I've heard little using diesel as a flush, that won't shift any non gas soluble varnishes but probably shifts some sludge.

It's definitely done something although I'll never know what or if it was a help, but I've bought 2 cans and will do my wife's car and my own again next oil changes. After that we will see but I'll probably not do it more than every other oil change, at most. Wynn's suggest using every change, but then they would.
So I’ve used the little can of flush, I’ve used a half quart of parts cleaner, and I’ve also used a half quart of diesel. Ran the engine for a bit then changed the oil. Only did it to my old truck that had a sticky lifter and to my Yukon that had a failing oil pressure sending unit as sometimes gunk gets in that little hole and the sending unit is expensive to replace as you need to take the upper intake manifold off.
 
I use Natural Gas instead of pellets!

Have not found the right chain to make those pellets!
No natural gas here, it's about half a mile down the rd.
At this point pellets are much cheaper, I haven't used it in at least two seasons, I wonder if it has pellets in it lol. It owes me nothing as I bought it used and it heated our home along with a 3 panel propane wall heater the first yr we were here. I'd like to get a newer one that has the automatic start, that way I could fill it and the wood stove, then leave for a couple days and it would still be warm in here. I've been waiting for a deal on one, but the ones I find are free standing and I need an insert.
If they bring natural gas up the hill or down, I'll definitely be getting set up for it.
 
Nice.
I haven't seen a deal on bar oil all yr, the last case I bought was 12 a gallon and that was cheaper oil.
I don't see it going down in the future, may have to look into buying a 55 gallon barrel lol.
Boss bought a 55 gal drum, came out to about $4 a gallon but that was over a year ago, not sure what it would be now.
 
I wonder how a bigger woodstove would do if you added a row of fire brick during the shoulder seasons. It would effectively have a smaller firebox. Would that upset the combustion in an EPA stove?
That might work okay, that's a great way to get your wife from overfilling it in the shoulder season :laughing:
 
What flavor 427???

I ran a 427 Ford engine in my 70 Boss 302 Mustang Body ... told folks I had the "Real" Boss Mustang!

Was a great sleeper, no one suspected the engine change! Was a 66 Holman and Moody seasoned block with the crank cut 10 + 20. (side oiler with cross bolted mains) 850 double pumper Holley on and Edelbrock duel port manifold, Hooker Headers and header mufflers, Mallory Photocell electronic ignition, TRW double roller timing chain, Hurst T handle shifter and Mr Gasket slapper traction bars with BFG radial trans ams all around.

Had a 3.50 pumpkin, but I stole a tranny from a 289 Mustang which was wider ration, so the first gear made it like I had 4:11s.

Handled great and beat about everything that was not tubbed on the street, including a 454, 440 mopar and a 69 Camaro with two 4s on a tunnel ram. (He could not modulate the power with street tires and left jet black lines all the way down the street).
oops, sorry! L-88 Chevy. the Corvette version. '68 version...

mine was not a sleeper!!! lol... with 10.5 M&H's on the rear... 4:88's, too

would set one in the seat hard!

your H-M sounds like a thumper!! :)
 
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