Didnāt like the cut . Touched it up in the field and then it cut well . Guess I need to fine tune itTried out the Foley Belsaw bench grinder . Work out well as far as I can tell the proof will be when I cut tomorrow.
Would like some critique on the chain does it look right or should I go slightly deeper with the grind ? And I set it to 30 degrees I used a chain I rocked a few days ago . I didnāt mount it yet going to clean it with diesel and lube it before I use it
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Nice buck you got there. Very smart move indeed using your logging winch. I'll have to remember that one. Plus it saves your back.I used my skidding winch this evening to skid my buck out of the woods/brush,
It was so thick in there I could barely walk in there, to hook the wire rope up!
SR
Go online to a place that sells trailer tires and look. I would think the weight is based on the load range ply ratings.I mentioned I'm looking for tires for my trailer. Currently have 185/70R14 on it. I can't go any wider than 185s or else they will rub the frame. I have a stupid question that I've searched the internet for but can't find an answer for. Will a narrower tire (say 165) hold more weight than a wider one or less weight?
Generally, the load carrying capacity is related to the volume of air a tire holds. So narrow or low profile tires usually have less load carrying capacity than a similar wider or taller sidewall given everything else is equal. The only way to know for sure is the rating/marking on the tire, so you may find something to suit your needs.Will a narrower tire (say 165) hold more weight than a wider one or less weight?
That's kind of what I thought. Just got it in my head (lot of empty space there) that narrower would hold more. Yet it's square inches on the ground distributing the weight.Generally, the load carrying capacity is related to the volume of air a tire holds. So narrow or low profile tires usually have less load carrying capacity than a similar wider or taller sidewall given everything else is equal. The only way to know for sure is the rating/marking on the tire, so you may find something to suit your needs.
The darn thing was so heavy and out in the thick brush so far, I couldn't drag him, so I went home for the tractor! lol I've used my winch before for the same thing and you are right, it's a huge back saver!Nice buck you got there. Very smart move indeed using your logging winch. I'll have to remember that one. Plus it saves your back.
Roger that!
My 661 isn't modified to the max. The jug hasn't been dropped and the piston shaved that Im aware of. Not sure on the timing either, but its opened up more than just a port job fir sure! The guy that hopped it up is a very reputable modifier.
From my experience. When it comes to racing saws of comparable power. The saw with the chain tuned best for the wood being bucked will always win! 90% of a saws performance is in it's chain! Even if one head has, lets say 10% more power than the other. The faster chain will probably STIHL win.
My 661 is pretty quick with my chains in the wood I cut.
Usually the smaller the tire, the less it will hold. However, dedicated trailer tires usually are built much better than a passenger car tire of the same size.I mentioned I'm looking for tires for my trailer. Currently have 185/70R14 on it. I can't go any wider than 185s or else they will rub the frame. I have a stupid question that I've searched the internet for but can't find an answer for. Will a narrower tire (say 165) hold more weight than a wider one or less weight?
Right now, it's got car rims on it. That's what came on it and that's what I replaced it with. Hate to change to trailer rims/tires just because I put so few miles on it in a year.Usually the smaller the tire, the less it will hold. However, dedicated trailer tires usually are built much better than a passenger car tire of the same size.
Wow! That is a nice deer. What do you think it field dressed at?The darn thing was so heavy and out in the thick brush so far, I couldn't drag him, so I went home for the tractor! lol I've used my winch before for the same thing and you are right, it's a huge back saver!
The antlers get hung up in my hunting blind.
SR
I have an Osburn woodstove that burns just like yours. There are air pipes that go thru the stove with little holes in them. Once the fire is up and running good they ignite and start reburning the gases. I think I have had this one for 20 years now. My only wish is that it was a bigger unit. We have a Jotul woodstove that works the same way over at the farm.Good dry oak burns hot even on low . Really very satisfied with the stove I would highly recommend it to anyone .
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Lowest setting and itās at 500 degrees . The stove works so well at removing the heat the flue temp is 250 this is the way it burns all winter. And there is hardly anything in the flue come spring cleaning View attachment 1033819View attachment 1033820
Rims are rims in my book. I've run car rims on trailers in the past for years without any problems. Even my old 5 lug car trailer had 4 car rims on it. The tires were load range C.Right now, it's got car rims on it. That's what came on it and that's what I replaced it with. Hate to change to trailer rims/tires just because I put so few miles on it in a year.
To be clear- I'm in Florida and not relying on wood for heat, we dont even use the HVAC heat pump at home, ever. But I do enjoy chainsaw therapy. I have a ASV RC-30 with a grapple, and I have a small Mitsubishi tractor I pull a bushog with. I've got many acres aof Oak and Hickory plus others such as Gum and Poplar, even Ironwood. I have a 25 ton splitter, and I set it up in front of my firewood building where I have a 16' long table of plywood top over 55gallon plastic barrels to cut on. I take the blowdown out of the woods to the table (10x20 carport over all of it) with the grapple, and block them up until the table is full of rounds, then roll them onto the splitter beam one at a time. On the opposite side of the splitter is a small table to put splits or re-splits. No mud on the logs, not a bunch of "specific" equipment, just laziness making me more efficent. The tablle and tent stay up year round, the splitter lives in the pole barn, with the skiddybopped and the tractor, the splits get tossed six feet or less and are easy to stack. I cut 16" and 10", for my Atlanta Stove Works #27 Box wwode stove (lives on the deck of the cabin and my wife cooks ALOT of meals on that thing- its tiny but still way to big to put in my cabin for heat, we snuggle with a sleepiong bag and are comrtable). I split everything thats hard and wet or dry- punky stuff is lucky to get to the table, but gets ran off to the brush (garbage) fire pile. I split kindling size with the splitter when I get a nice square out of a round and suffer ridicule, but I'm far too lazy to swing a fiskars camp axe any length of time...... I have a gazillion 25 and 45 gallon nursery tubs I put my stove wood and kindling in, and my wife can handle those with a hand truck to restock the deck/stove.I've been looking at a lot of different commercial splitters with conveyors and also skid steers with possessor implements. I haven't really looked into a tractor implement that splits wood. From what I understand. There is not enough oil volume in tractor hydraulics to support a good commercial splitter, but I'm not sure. I can fall and buck firewood like a mad man! The heavier log lifting/skidding equipment like tractors and skid steers. Along with firewood processing implements. Is all new to me!
I've got them all over down here in East central FloridaYou have Chicken of the Woods up in Alaska? Didn't know they ranged (pun intended) that far.
I knew they were in warmer/more humid environments, just didn't about Alaska.I've got them all over down here in East central Florida
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