Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[GrizG]

See! All that cracking in those beams. I bet that wouldn't have happened if they had used kiln dried wood .

Man what a beautiful floor. I'd kill to have a floor like that.

Nah... it most likely would have cracked sooner and possibly more significantly if it were kiln dried. I borrowed the following below from Matt Cremona... https://mattcremona.com/urban-logging/sawing/cutting-and-drying-cookies He talks about cookies but the stresses he talks about exist for whole logs and for beams that include the pith (pretty much all hand hewn ones). You need to dry them as slowly as possible to avoid cracks and then they will likely crack anyway.


So now you may be wondering why do these things crack in the first place? Why is crack free drying take so much effort and even then they probably will still crack? Well the simple answer is they’re not designed to dry without splitting. It the tree’s structure and material properties that we are fighting. Looking at the face of the cookies, we can see two of the wood’s planes. The tangential plane follows the growth rings around the tree. This plane can be thought of as the length of the growth ring. The other plane is the radial plane which goes across the rings from the center of the tree (the pith) to the outside. This plane can be thought of as the thickness of the growth rings. The cookie self destructs due to the drying relationship between these two planes. As the wood dries it will shrink but the tangential and radial planes shrink by different amounts. The tangential plane will shrink more than the radial plane. The exact ratio varies by species but it’s generally around 2x. Due to this relationship as the wood dries and shrinks the growth rings will be put into tension as they try to shorten trying to compress every ring closer than it to the center. Stress builds until the wood splits. Also keep in mind that the further from the center a ring is, the greater it’s circumference and therefore the more it will shrink.

 

[GrizG]

Ooh i forgot the regatta boats!

I had one of those blanks. We had a boat building competition in power and energy class in 7th grade. I asked if I could use the balsa versus the pine that the teacher provided, and to my surprise he said sure. This class had decades of data and I blew away the all time record. I'm curious if it was ever topped but they razed the school this summer and I missed the open house/school closing ceremony in the spring.

I did some things with those kits that led to the rules being changed... For example, I cut the hull in half length wise and put a deck between the halves. My kids could send that boat all the way down a 10' gutter with one good blow... it didn't noise dive and it rode high in the water. Anticipating an uproar I had a back up "ghost ship" that benefited from my stealth enhancements. Don't remember if it won overall or came in 2nd to my other son's boat...

 

[svk]

I did some things with those kits that led to the rules being changed... For example, I cut the hull in half length wise and put a deck between the halves. My kids could sent that boat all the way down a 10' gutter with one good blow... it didn't noise dive and it rode high in the water. Anticipating an uproar I had a back up "ghost ship" that benefited from my stealth enhancements. Don't remember if it won overall or came in 2nd to my other son's boat.

View attachment 1139180

Awesome!

 

[GrizG]

Awesome!

The rules said you had to use the kit but you could add to it... didn't say you couldn't cut the hull in half. Their way of coping with it in the later rules was requiring the boats to fit in the starting gate... a new thing they added to the gutters that was only a bit wider than the basic hull.

 

[mountainguyed67]

Since it is farwood from HVBW it is worth for more per rick/rack/face cord/cord/pickup load and even War Wagon hauled, than any other farwood. I'm certain the entire universe knows that too. Please price it accordingly, arickenly, arackinly etc.

 

[JimR]

Anyone we know?

the comments are priceless.

https://twitchy.com/fuzzychimp/2023...d-the-replies-will-leaf-you-in-tears-n2391168

I think she is looking to get poked by a hard limb. LOL

 

[cuttinstihl]

Did some milling with the G395 and made some 4x4 with the CS590 today, also cut some firewood with the 620P

 

[WoodAbuser]

Did some milling with the G395 and made some 4x4 with the CS590 today, also cut some firewood with the 620P
View attachment 1139194View attachment 1139195View attachment 1139196

Yup long past time for a name change.

 

[MechanicMatt]

GrizG


Pretty sure they made a movie about you…

 

[cuttinstihl]

Yup long past time for a name change.

Knew that was coming

 

[MustangMike]

Was that directed toward me? If so, I'm not sure what you are talking about. My chainsaw knowledge is limited.

Over time the vibration of the saw can change the carb tune settings. There are generally 3 screws, Low, High and Idle.

The low and high (hi) change the air/fuel mix ratio. If the low is out of wack, your saw will not idle correctly. If your Hi gets to lean your saw can burn up. This is a major cause of saw failure and can result in scoring (the aluminum piston melting) on the exhaust side. This will ruin your compression, and your saw will lose power or stop running all together.

 

[MustangMike]

When adjusting the Hi screw, you want to back it out enough so at wide open throttle the saw "4 strokes" (breaks up a little) but cleans up when you put the chain in the wood. If it does not break up w/o a load you are too lean, if it does not clean up in the wood you are too rich.

Adjust the low to give you a good idle (w/o the chain running) and good throttle response. Only adjust the idle screw if the saw is idling too fast or two slow (at the best settings). It does not change the mix, just raises or lowers the idle.

Check your owner's manual for proper setting, modified saws (including muffler mods) need richer settings.

 

[GrizG]

GrizG


Pretty sure they made a movie about you…

Yeah... that movie made the rounds of the Pack. My sons are a lot older now and terms like "daughter in law" and "grandson" are in my vocabulary. Discussion items now include home, vehicle and outdoor power equipment repair and maintenance, and insurance, tax and retirement planning. Gotta set them on a solid path... they are pretty good at finding opportunities .

 

[GrizG]

Anyone else having McAfee warnings triggered on this site? Mine has been going crazy here today...

 

[svk]

Yup long past time for a name change.

Knew that was coming

I was going to say, millinhusqvarna has a nice ring to it.

 

[svk]

When adjusting the Hi screw, you want to back it out enough so at wide open throttle the saw "4 strokes" (breaks up a little) but cleans up when you put the chain in the wood. If it does not break up w/o a load you are too lean, if it does not clean up in the wood you are too rich.

Adjust the low to give you a good idle (w/o the chain running) and good throttle response. Only adjust the idle screw if the saw is idling too fast or two slow (at the best settings). It does not change the mix, just raises or lowers the idle.

Check your owner's manual for proper setting, modified saws (including muffler mods) need richer settings.

This right here! Best advice for 98% of the saws out there.

If you have one of those RPM Limited coil saws, you need to play around a little bit more.

Also, the Poulan 4218 runs best when the screw is set halfway between lean bog and rich bog. It’s a weird one lol. Thank you to @Modifiedmark for figuring that one out.

 

[djg james]

This right here! Best advice for 98% of the saws out there.

If you have one of those RPM Limited coil saws, you need to play around a little bit more.

Also, the Poulan 4218 runs best when the screw is set halfway between lean bog and rich bog. It’s a weird one lol. Thank you to @Modifiedmark for figuring that one out.

Stihl 038. I don't know if it is one of those. When I cleanup/fuel filter it, I check the carb settings that was mentioned above. Never adjusted them before.

 

[MustangMike]

Yes, my advice will work with your saw.

Generally, on the older Stihl saws, you want to start with the screws about one turn out on each (Hi + Low). I always make the Hi 1 1/4 just to be safe. If the saw has a muffler mod, open it a bit more.

Gently turn the screw clockwise till it "bottoms out", then open it one plus turns. The older Stihls generally have springs under the screws that keep them in place. They wore out on my 044 and I had to replace them. They DO NOT come in a rebuild kit. (They were cheap when I got them but had to order them from the dealer).

If it gets colder, or you increase altitude, you may have to make your tune richer. This is the benefit of the computer-controlled saws, they do it for you.

Some saws like being a bit rich, others don't. With a few of them, it makes a big difference. Keep your filters clean (air + fuel) and your plug fresh!

A good running saw with a sharp chain gets so much more done!

 

[MustangMike]

For the newer saws (I'm dating myself) ... when they went from 044 to MS 440, etc. the newer saws have limiters on the carb adjustment screws. (0 series saws did not have limiters). I always recommend removing them, especially if you have a muffler mod.

The limiters generally restrict the Hi to 3/4 turn out, making it vulnerable to burning up if it is hot out, if the chain gets dull, etc. On the older MS saws you can just remove the plastic limiters as there are screws (with a slot) under them. Not so with the current adjustable carb MS saws. You have to pull the limiter out, remove the tab with a razor knife, then re-install the plastic.

 

[svk]

Limiters, one of the dumbest things ever!