Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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I have a drill similar to that. It has 1/2 pipe thread on all sides to give you at least a chance of controlling it if the bit hits something hard. Chances are tho there will be bruises involved. It will twist a bit in half before that beast would stop turning. It's my drywall mud stirring drill. It doesn't even notice when the paddle goes into the bucket.
My dad had one of those. It needed repair and he took it to a motor shop around 1970. He didn't want to pay the bill so it never came home. He got used newer one but it didn't have the guts the original Monkey wards one had.
 
Nice looking fish. Sure beats working!
1/4 ounce gets down pretty quickly in most situations, but in the grand river next to the dam we'd use 3/4-7/8oz you don't want to hit with one of those lol.
That would be perfect lol but the regs on our salmon rivers are unweighted artifical fly only. Best I can do in these conditions is sinking line, extra fast sinking poly leader, and short fluoro leader to the fly. In regular conditions I can get away with floating line and poly leader which casts MUCH nicer.
 
That would be perfect lol but the regs on our salmon rivers are unweighted artifical fly only. Best I can do in these conditions is sinking line, extra fast sinking poly leader, and short fluoro leader to the fly. In regular conditions I can get away with floating line and poly leader which casts MUCH nicer.
Same here.
We run backing, then amnesia, blood knot to a 6-8' tippet(length dependingon rod length), slide a snap swivel on that the weight connects to, then a swivel to hold the snap swivel above this point, leader off that and a fly on the end.
It's far from a fly fishing purists setup, but we slay them. Also it's 100% legal here.
 
That's smart. How'd it work.
I think it worked fine. Of course it does take up wall space. I suppose you could then use the back of the door if you wanted to. As mentioned before, I would suggest something to keep the door from coming off the rollers - when my wife was a young lass visiting her parents she parked her car inside the barn overnight to keep it out of the weather. Unfortunately, the wind lifted the door and it landed on her car since they were both inside the barn. :crazy2:

Years later the FIL replaced the barn door sliders with overhead doors with openers, mostly as a matter of convenience. Plus he also had the money then.
 
I think it worked fine. Of course it does take up wall space. I suppose you could then use the back of the door if you wanted to. As mentioned before, I would suggest something to keep the door from coming off the rollers - when my wife was a young lass visiting her parents she parked her car inside the barn overnight to keep it out of the weather. Unfortunately, the wind lifted the door and it landed on her car since they were both inside the barn. :crazy2:

Years later the FIL replaced the barn door sliders with overhead doors with openers, mostly as a matter of convenience. Plus he also had the money then.
That money part lol.
Whatever I would build would not be able to just fall off the track, but would be easily removed if I needed to. My only concern is that it could blow in on the bottom and then it wouldn't catch whatever closure mechanism I make at the end to keep it sealed to the wall/jack studs(which are actually 6x6 posts.
As for loosing the wall space I'd probably just keep something parked there like a tractor. If it was needed I could build a wall to the ceiling and the door would be like a giant pocket door. Other options would be; a knee wall, cabinets with a tall back, angle iron on the floor with benches.
Lots of options, I mainly want something that will seal up better than a standard overhead door and has a greater r-factor, and I'd like the ability to use a fairly standard electric opener.
 
What about your neighbors . After I turned them down they approached my neighbors who had open land one was across the street . He also flat out refused even though there is no way he would even see them but I would . He approached me when they did I told him I sent them packing he said he told them to go have coitus with themselves too .
We own the top of the hill across the street from our house and the farmhouse aside of us. Another owner owns most of the surrounding property of our woodlot and hill. The backside of the hill would be perfect for solar if they clear cut the woods. They have one big field just North of the hill that could be used for solar.
 
That money part lol.
Whatever I would build would not be able to just fall off the track, but would be easily removed if I needed to. My only concern is that it could blow in on the bottom and then it wouldn't catch whatever closure mechanism I make at the end to keep it sealed to the wall/jack studs(which are actually 6x6 posts.
As for loosing the wall space I'd probably just keep something parked there like a tractor. If it was needed I could build a wall to the ceiling and the door would be like a giant pocket door. Other options would be; a knee wall, cabinets with a tall back, angle iron on the floor with benches.
Lots of options, I mainly want something that will seal up better than a standard overhead door and has a greater r-factor, and I'd like the ability to use a fairly standard electric opener.
I have outside top and side seals on my insulated overhead garage doors. The bottom edges have replaceable seals. These doors and seals do keep the wind out.

Our barn at the farm was built between 1860 - 1865. Those sliding doors are not windproof by any means.
 
My only concern is that it could blow in on the bottom and then it wouldn't catch whatever closure mechanism I make at the end to keep it sealed to the wall/jack studs
He did use these overcenter latches on the sliders to pull the door against the seal:
1713460961426.png
 
It’s defiantly a dry well not hooked up to anything as there is no water in it . I’ll bet it was put in and tied to the septic at one time . House has a new 1000 gallon tank and fields I’m just going to fill it in IMG_8274.jpegIMG_8275.jpegIMG_8276.jpegthe lid was poured in place there’s evidence of plywood under it most like made a box frame filled it and covered it IMG_8277.jpeg
 
It’s defiantly a dry well not hooked up to anything as there is no water in it . I’ll bet it was put in and tied to the septic at one time . House has a new 1000 gallon tank and fields I’m just going to fill it in View attachment 1170773View attachment 1170774View attachment 1170775the lid was poured in place there’s evidence of plywood under it most like made a box frame filled it and covered it View attachment 1170776
Make sure to tell the county so they can get theirs via permit and inspection fees
 
It’s defiantly a dry well not hooked up to anything as there is no water in it . I’ll bet it was put in and tied to the septic at one time . House has a new 1000 gallon tank and fields I’m just going to fill it in View attachment 1170773View attachment 1170774View attachment 1170775the lid was poured in place there’s evidence of plywood under it most like made a box frame filled it and covered it View attachment 1170776
I would hook the kitchen sink to it, it sure saves the sewer!

SR
 

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