Ya'll think skip chain makes the saw lighter? So do you ever completely fill the tanks or just go 1/4 at a time to save weight?
Why didnt I think of that!
Why didnt I think of that!
semi skip or full skip
- Thread starter 350jeepcj5
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Slamm
Addicted to ArboristSite
I don't use gas. Gas wears the engine out and its too heavy.
Sam
Sam
dingeryote
Blueberry Baron
Ya'll think skip chain makes the saw lighter? So do you ever completely fill the tanks or just go 1/4 at a time to save weight?
Why didnt I think of that!
Nah, Ethanol weighs less than gasoline by volume, and Hydro weighs less than bar oil.
Just run the 10% pump gas and cut the Bar oil with cheapo hydro and save .00073oz for better handling.
It's cheaper than Titanium Dawgs.
Stay safe!
Dingeryote
So you have caught on to the modified CnH2n+2,(I like C3H8) gas craze that is exponentially lighter per tank which lasts for days?
I guess I wont have to be your mentor after all...
I guess I wont have to be your mentor after all...
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Nah, Ethanol weighs less than gasoline by volume, and Hydro weighs less than bar oil.
Just run the 10% pump gas and cut the Bar oil with cheapo hydro and save .00073oz for better handling.
It's cheaper than Titanium Dawgs.
Stay safe!
Dingeryote
I use ceramic dawgs that are extra light & extra tough cause I have to pull so hard on my saw. Thats because of my extra light weight chain, I filed off 80 percent of the bits and am saving almost 3 1/2 ozs!!! It really helps me in the steep ground!
dingeryote
Blueberry Baron
Ceramic Dawgs are cool! Just the ticket for cutting in a Petrified forrest. LOL!!
Nikko is gonna wonder if we have lost our friggin minds.
Stay safe!
Dingeryote
I think I lost a good portion of mine posting on another thread earlier so. . .
To be of some help. Ide go with full skip. see if you like it. It really eases the sharpening woes involved with longer bars. Dont know much about semi skip, but I was never impressed by it. . I really dont even know how it was supposed to impress. Maybe if you like running full comp but need some hp and clearance the semi would be for you.
To be of some help. Ide go with full skip. see if you like it. It really eases the sharpening woes involved with longer bars. Dont know much about semi skip, but I was never impressed by it. . I really dont even know how it was supposed to impress. Maybe if you like running full comp but need some hp and clearance the semi would be for you.
Swamp Yankee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Both are hanging in the basement
Full skip can be made to cut as fast as just about anything else on the market. The key is learning how to sharpen it especially the raker depth. Instead of each tooth taking a small chip, allow the chain to pull fewer but bigger chips. This approach requires two things, one your saw has the grunt to pull a big chip with a long bar, and second you have enough experience running a saw with lowered rakers.
The other consideration is semi-skip is a lot smoother than full skip in the cut, and not quite as "grabby". Full skip has a tendency to chatter in the cut so you want a saw with good AV or you'll really feel it after a day of cutting.
I've used Stihl, Oregon and Woodland Pro. Like their full comp chains, the Stihl seems to hold a better edge but no complaints with any of them. Warch the gauge on the bar. At least in this area finding either skip or semi skip in .058 gauge can be tough, .050 seems more prevalent.
Take Care
Full skip can be made to cut as fast as just about anything else on the market. The key is learning how to sharpen it especially the raker depth. Instead of each tooth taking a small chip, allow the chain to pull fewer but bigger chips. This approach requires two things, one your saw has the grunt to pull a big chip with a long bar, and second you have enough experience running a saw with lowered rakers.
The other consideration is semi-skip is a lot smoother than full skip in the cut, and not quite as "grabby". Full skip has a tendency to chatter in the cut so you want a saw with good AV or you'll really feel it after a day of cutting.
I've used Stihl, Oregon and Woodland Pro. Like their full comp chains, the Stihl seems to hold a better edge but no complaints with any of them. Warch the gauge on the bar. At least in this area finding either skip or semi skip in .058 gauge can be tough, .050 seems more prevalent.
Take Care
teatersroad
What's a henway?
saying no to a double cheeseburger is the weight saving device I'm most concerned with.
I wonder if the chain you choose has anything to do with the powerhead or the wood you are cutting. I know it doesn't have anything to do with personal preference, as that's not allowed here at little old ladies sewing corner.. er.. um.. where am I again?
I wonder if the chain you choose has anything to do with the powerhead or the wood you are cutting. I know it doesn't have anything to do with personal preference, as that's not allowed here at little old ladies sewing corner.. er.. um.. where am I again?
testlight
ArboristSite Operative
Semi skip has my vote, unless you have a little powerhead on that 28"
You need to know the pitch .325 or 3/8(most likely) and the guage .50, .58, .63 this needs to match the groove in your bar rail. Your bar should have that information on it.
You need to know the pitch .325 or 3/8(most likely) and the guage .50, .58, .63 this needs to match the groove in your bar rail. Your bar should have that information on it.
350jeepcj5
ArboristSite Operative
its a 3/8 .050, just dont know the drive count
teatersroad
What's a henway?
ok, what's the saw (again) ?
DangerTree
ArboristSite Operative
Full house is the only way. If you find yourself filing a lot stop rototilling or cutting sand or nails! use a peavey and cut both sides. As for filing when you get used to it shouldn't take much more than a couple minutes to file up a 24" bar. If you find you don't have enough power to drag the chain then the bar is too long for the power head or the rakers are too short. And lastly it takes practice to file well and cut properly. I can can make a rancher cut sweet just as easily as make an 090 cut crappy just by the sharpen alone! I watch groundies nic dirt all day and wonder how come they have to push down on the saw. A dull saw no matter what kind of chain is on it can cut performance in half and that translates into time and money and wear and tear! Full house hands down!!!
350jeepcj5
ArboristSite Operative
This was just kind of hypothetical, but lets say on a mac 10-10 (because that's the biggest saw i have right now)
SawTroll
Information Collector
A good starting point would be what saw and use it is for!
Since that is a "secret" , I vote that you are a Troll! :notrolls2:
350jeepcj5
ArboristSite Operative
I just said on a mac 10-10
