Sihl 066 problem.....

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BigWill1985

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OK, so here is a little background...

I just recently started my own arborculture business. My business partner has an extensive amount of experience in the business (25+ years, working for many different companies in our area and an insane amount of knowledge of all aspects of tree care) and I have an extensive amount of experience in mechanics of all sorts (hyraulic systems, gas/diesel cars and trucks of all kinds, boat repair, small engine repair, fabrication, modification, and many more). I have a garage full of tools and can generally repair anything I encounter sooner or later.

Anyway, we bought a used Stihl 066 as our trunk cutting saw. It runs a 36" bar, and ran great when we first got it. We used it on 2-3 jobs, and finally decided to take down a tree on my property that has been bothering me (25' tall locust that was rotten from the inside out). We were cutting away at the trunk, and the saw just bogged down and died. I messed with it for 20-25 minutes, and finally gave up as I couldn't get it to fire at all. The saw had great spark, but just wouldn't fire. I noticed that the compression release wasn't shutting, and also checked the compression on the motor (was somewhere around 100psi, can't remember exact figure). So, I pulled the jug. Replaced the compression release, and found that the rings were all sticky and gummed up (carbon mixed with thick grime). I picked up a new set of rings, drained the fuel, and replaced it with Trufuel. Honed up the cylinder, replaced the spark plug, and threw her back together. The saw started up that time after 4-5 pulls, and seemed to run OK although I needed to tune on the carb to get it just right. While I was tuning the saw, it died and will not start now. I noticed the compression wasn't as strong as before, so I sprayed a little PB Blaster into the cylinder. The spark plug looked dry, as if I wasn't getting any fuel at all. Still has strong spark, just a weird fuel issue. The fuel lines looked fine, as far as I could tell.

I have a few questions regarding this saw. First off, I searched about these carbs and noticed that I have a carb with the red plastic plugs. Can I just remove these with an O-ring pick and have full control of the carb settings? Also, how difficult is it to rebuild these carbs? Is it even worth rebuiding, or should I just order a replacement carb if I sense issues with it? I have done a lot of work on different carbs over the years, and generally have pretty good luck with them. However, my uncle works on small engines for a living and always claimed that chainsaw carbs are nearly impossible to rebuild and do any good.

What are your thoughts?
 
sounds like you have more problems than just a carb. you need to figure out why it went down on compression whether it is an air leak ,lean carb or whatever it may be or your spinning your wheels
 
OK, so here is a little background...

I just recently started my own arborculture business. My business partner has an extensive amount of experience in the business (25+ years, working for many different companies in our area and an insane amount of knowledge of all aspects of tree care) and I have an extensive amount of experience in mechanics of all sorts (hyraulic systems, gas/diesel cars and trucks of all kinds, boat repair, small engine repair, fabrication, modification, and many more). I have a garage full of tools and can generally repair anything I encounter sooner or later.

Anyway, we bought a used Stihl 066 as our trunk cutting saw. It runs a 36" bar, and ran great when we first got it. We used it on 2-3 jobs, and finally decided to take down a tree on my property that has been bothering me (25' tall locust that was rotten from the inside out). We were cutting away at the trunk, and the saw just bogged down and died. I messed with it for 20-25 minutes, and finally gave up as I couldn't get it to fire at all. The saw had great spark, but just wouldn't fire. I noticed that the compression release wasn't shutting, and also checked the compression on the motor (was somewhere around 100psi, can't remember exact figure). So, I pulled the jug. Replaced the compression release, and found that the rings were all sticky and gummed up (carbon mixed with thick grime). I picked up a new set of rings, drained the fuel, and replaced it with Trufuel. Honed up the cylinder, replaced the spark plug, and threw her back together. The saw started up that time after 4-5 pulls, and seemed to run OK although I needed to tune on the carb to get it just right. While I was tuning the saw, it died and will not start now. I noticed the compression wasn't as strong as before, so I sprayed a little PB Blaster into the cylinder. The spark plug looked dry, as if I wasn't getting any fuel at all. Still has strong spark, just a weird fuel issue. The fuel lines looked fine, as far as I could tell.

I have a few questions regarding this saw. First off, I searched about these carbs and noticed that I have a carb with the red plastic plugs. Can I just remove these with an O-ring pick and have full control of the carb settings? Also, how difficult is it to rebuild these carbs? Is it even worth rebuiding, or should I just order a replacement carb if I sense issues with it? I have done a lot of work on different carbs over the years, and generally have pretty good luck with them. However, my uncle works on small engines for a living and always claimed that chainsaw carbs are nearly impossible to rebuild and do any good.

What are your thoughts?


The carb is easily rebuildable. We do several a week. I do use an ultrasonic cleaner though.

You can use a drywall screw to remove the limiters. When you get them out just trim the tabs and put them back in, it helps keep the screws from vibrating out of adjustment and makes it easier to find with a screwdriver when adjusting.
 
Low compression bad piston or bad cyl or any combination .What is the current compression reading from that saw?Not supposed to hone it there is only a thin crome lining electroplated to that cyl.Get me the Compression reading if low rip it down send CLEAR pics and start measuring piston to wall ring end gap and ring side gap and post those numbers?Sounds like you need a new piston at minimum.
 
You said the plug is dry, so I'd try a carb kit and impulse line. Contrary to what your uncle said, Stihl carb jobs aren't hard at all.
 
066 Woes

Based upon my experience the first thing to check is why it went down on compression. The 038 Magnum II I had ate two pistons and cylinders because we did not check the rubber boot from the carb to the piston which had a hidden big crack under the edge of the clamp.

May not be the cause of your problems, but worth checking.

Think of it as an "opportunity" to freshen the saw up.
 
OK, so I guess I over reacted! Tore into it today. Found out that one of the jug screws backed itself out from the vibrations, and the saw wouldn't build compression. I think that the drop in compression was just my mind playing tricks on me while pulling it over. Replaced the screw, and cleaned the carb just for good measure. Diaphragm was in good shape, and didn't see anything that worried me in the carb. I did as you guys recommended, and pulled out the plugs to file off the raised nib so I could adjust it. Then put them back in the carb. Reassembled everything, and the saw fired off on the fifth pull! Retuned the carb, and it runs great. The impulse tube was in perfect condition (supple and flexible), and the intake boot was in great condition (fit snugly in both ends, and had no cracks or wear spots).

I guess I was trying to overthink this.... I keep forgetting that these chainsaws are such simple machines..... :D

~Will Courtier~
 

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