Small WT carb improvements

[Ketchup]

Hey everybody.

I have found the smaller WT carbs unreliable with flooding issues. I have a couple saws that are not easily converted to an HD carb (or any other that I know of) due to linkage and carb box design.

Are there any tricks to these carbs that improve there reliability? Jet mods? Boring?

The two I’m really sick of are the hated WT 194 and the newer WT 1208.

I’m all ears for higher quality replacement carb models too, though fitting them is an issue.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Mad Professor]

Never had a problem with OEM Wt-194 or Wt-426 (compensator carb) on 026. The Wt-194 is the go to carb for a 026/260. Pioneerguy600 is about the best here for 026 stuff.

Nor 036 carbs and 038/038M carbs (Tilston or Bing)

You need to clean them well when rebuilding (sonocator helps) and use OEM quality parts. Set up needle. Don't put parts in wrong/backwards. Watch for air leaks.

If carb ran ethanol and it's corroded then toss it.

Maybe explian why your rebuilds failed and someone here can help.

New carbs might be O.K., or made of Chinesium Coors cans.....

 

[HarleyT]

Are we talking about cheap chinese bootleg carbs, that are not made by Walbro?

 

[pioneerguy600]

OEM Walbro carbs do not have flooding problems I am aware of and I couldn`t possibly count the numbers of them I have worked over, rebuilt and tuned. If a carb is flooding there is something physically wrong with it as in corroded needle valve seat, needle valve height set wrong or crappy diaphragms. For me the OEM carbs are best although I did get some AM ones 4 -5 years back that were better than OEM for ported saws but they dried up rather quickly and now the AM carbs are not worth a capital D!

 

[Ketchup]

Factory WT 194 - NIB. On an 026 fully rebuilt with new OEM seals and lines. Holds vacuum and pressure perfectly. Dies at idle, dies off throttle. 2 tanks through that carb, 91 MoGas.

Many rebuilt WT 194. OEM kit. Carb cleaner, heated ultrasonic for 20 minutes in clean wd40, gentle air. Won’t hold a tune, die at idle, die off throttle. Ethanol is probably a factor here as I get carbs from all over. Curious where the corrosion is. Can’t find any.

Many of the 194 carbs run well at first, but soon lose the tune, or die at idle. Air filter choke springs complicate the issue.

WT 1208 - came new on new 2511t. Tune changes weekly, dies off throttle. Hard starts when hot. Cold blooded.

 

[Ketchup]

Both saws show dye from mix in the air filters.

 

[HarleyT]

I thought you said "flooding issues".

 

[HarleyT]

Are these saws modded?

 

[HarleyT]

New pistons?

 

[Mad Professor]

Factory WT 194 - NIB. On an 026 fully rebuilt with new OEM seals and lines. Holds vacuum and pressure perfectly. Dies at idle, dies off throttle. 2 tanks through that carb, 91 MoGas.

Many rebuilt WT 194. OEM kit. Carb cleaner, heated ultrasonic for 20 minutes in clean wd40, gentle air. Won’t hold a tune, die at idle, die off throttle. Ethanol is probably a factor here as I get carbs from all over. Curious where the corrosion is. Can’t find any.

Many of the 194 carbs run well at first, but soon lose the tune, or die at idle. Air filter choke springs complicate the issue.

WT 1208 - came new on new 2511t. Tune changes weekly, dies off throttle. Hard starts when hot. Cold blooded.

Dying off idle to throttle is a lean symptom, need to turn out low. May be same thing with idle problem.

When you do this will have to go back/forth fixing idle/low. Then reset hi, and check low again, then high in a full cut WOT to get high right. Clean filters/sharp chain to set high in cut.

If you want to get rid of the used OEM wt-194 people will buy them.

P.S. if a Gorilla seats the hi/lo screws, the carb will be screwed and not ever tune right

 

[HarleyT]

Both saws show dye from mix in the air filters.

This is why I asked about mods and pistons,

"spitback"?

 

[Mad Professor]

Are parts # 24 and # 28, sleeve and special washer, 026 IPL pg 12. In place?

 

[Ketchup]

I thought you said "flooding issues".

Both models flood at normal settings and leave the muffler black and sticky with H 1/2 turn out. I live at 5000”, but that’s still too lean on my other saws. But maybe they aren’t flooding. They don’t behave like saws I’ve had with too high of a metering lever.

Are these saws modded?

Not the 026s. I only mod the ones that will run properly stock.

The 2511s are mostly modded. The carb limiters leave the saw too fat here, so I pull those. I usually bypass the Cat as well.
I do have one stock saw with the similar symptoms. None of the current saws have changes in timing. Intakes are stock. They all spit. I’ve never seen one that didn’t. I was considering raising the intake on a future mod.

New pistons?

2511 - less than 40 tanks, no new parts

026 - a couple have gone down the road with meteor pistons and cabers. Everything that is giving me trouble now is stock. Re-ringing might help, but it’s hard to do much work on a $200 saw and get your money back.


What I’m hearing is mostly that the 194 carb is fine, just get better at tuning. I’ll keep on that.

 

[HarleyT]

When the carb is off, look at the pistons through the intake.

 

[Mad Professor]

This is why I asked about mods and pistons,

"spitback"?

This is why I asked about mods and pistons,

"spitback"?

Harley, always use OEM pistons , they "swallow", the intake charge, no spitback.

 

[HarleyT]

Same with biker chicks!

 

[HarleyT]

But a piston with a badly scored piston at the intake {dirt ingestion},
well, they will run like ****....

 

[HarleyT]

And cause fuel to spit back and stain the air filter with oil mix....

 

[HarleyT]

One may think that his carb is flooding.....

 

[Ketchup]

I check the pistons first thing on both sides. All look good through intake and exhaust.

I would much prefer swallowing to spitting. Neither model has a low intake. Maybe I need to just get over the spitting and concentrate on other areas of performance.

Thanks for the IPL reference. I’ll check that out.