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Grandriverrat

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Talking with a friend today who was cutting down a big ash tree thinking it was going to go one way he made the face cut but,the tree ended up coming back while making the back cut. Now the tree is standing straight up and the back cut is sealed up tight to the point he dosen't think he can get a wedge in it. Pulling over with a rope and truck is not an option so what do you think is the best way to get this tree on the ground. 20inch base 60 to 70 feet tall. I am thinking making a new face cut above the old back cut on the side of the tree where it wants to go and make a new back cut to drop the tree. What do you all think. We don't want to rush into this for safety concerns. By the way the tree is in an isolated area so not an immediate danger to people or property. Thanks for any advise you can offer.
 
back drop it

You miss judged the lean of the tree (I do that now and then)
Either you pull it over, somewhat hazardous
Or back drop it. Still somewhat hazardous. If you don't have much holding wood in the hinge... this could be dicey.

What you described, move up about 6 inches, cut a new notch, don't get terribly deep the thing is dangerous now.
Make darn sure your new back cut is above the wedge, and when it starts to move, you do too!

Wedging one back over that has settled into the back cut is a #####. It can break the holding wood, or barberchair on ya.

Lots of luck.
 
Get someone with experience felling trees help you. Doesn't sound like you're qualified.

I have dropped hundreds of trees in my day safely so I think I have some qualifications. I am sure I could make a safe decision that would result in the tree being on the ground when I can actually see it for myself. Sitting at a desk i am just trying to picture it in my mind and wonder what others did when they came across this same situation.
 
I would NOT try to re-notch on the other side. If he's already made a face cut and part of a back cut you're begging for a barber chair and death ( especially with ash.) What kind of equipment do you have. Good long rope, block and tackle, throwball?? It might be best to walk away and wait for a good wind storm to bring her down.
 
You miss judged the lean of the tree (I do that now and then)
Either you pull it over, somewhat hazardous
Or back drop it. Still somewhat hazardous. If you don't have much holding wood in the hinge... this could be dicey.

What you described, move up about 6 inches, cut a new notch, don't get terribly deep the thing is dangerous now.
Make darn sure your new back cut is above the wedge, and when it starts to move, you do too!

Wedging one back over that has settled into the back cut is a #####. It can break the holding wood, or barberchair on ya.

Lots of luck.
Thanks for the advice . Kinda what i was thinking too. Proceed with caution and be ready to get the hell out!
 
I would be real careful trying to reface that tree. It sounds like you need a big gust of wind and come back when it's on the ground. Sounds like he should have stuck a wedge in when he got the bar in deep enough for space for a wedge. It's a security blanket for stuff like that.
 
I would NOT try to re-notch on the other side. If he's already made a face cut and part of a back cut you're begging for a barber chair and death ( especially with ash.) What kind of equipment do you have. Good long rope, block and tackle, throwball?? It might be best to walk away and wait for a good wind storm to bring her down.

Also very sound advice. Thanks!
 
I would be real careful trying to reface that tree. It sounds like you need a big gust of wind and come back when it's on the ground. Sounds like he should have stuck a wedge in when he got the bar in deep enough for space for a wedge. It's a security blanket for stuff like that.
I believe you have the right idea. I did try and explain to him about putting the wedge in before it comes back especially if the lean looks goofy to begin with. Thanks!
 
If the tree is stable and you want to try to wedge it over can you start a wedge closer to the hinge like you were bore cutting and leaving a back strap? I hate to mess with trees like that. I was cutting one on a fence row that got right at the tipping point and the wedges were falling out as a little breeze came up and was fighting it. It hung up for around 15 seconds which seems like 10 minutes waiting to see what it's going to do.
 
Had an ash about that same size do the exact same thing a couple days ago. Two steel wedges and a 8lb sledge, took some pounding but it went where originally intended. I am by far no expert but thats what I did.
 
if he got the bar out there is room to get a wedge in on each side.if youre not familar with wedging flag the area and wait for the wind
 
Grandriverrat, someone with experience really needs to see the tree and be on the scene. I don't know much about Ash but I do know that large canopy trees can fool you. I was fooled this past Saturday. I cut a fairly straight but large canopy 3' oak that I had roped it off to a 6000# 4wd, wedged the backcut with two wedges and left a thick hinge for safety as my intent was to pull it over. Even with a back cut gap 4" high it still wanted to fall back due to the asymmetrical canopy. No amount of wedging would have ever put that tree where I wanted it to go unless you could stack wedges 6 high. Two 4wds (10,000#+), a 1" rope and some further thinning of the hinge did. My point is none of us really know what your friend is up against and the best techniques shared here could be useless and even dangerous on this particular tree. While the fact that he got his bar out might indicate that it could be as simple as cutting a small notch to get a wedge started, the safe falling of this tree could just as easily be as complicated as backfalling or some serious rigging. In any case, the "know-how" needs to be on scene. Ron
 

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