Solution to the 21" Mingo marker wheel

[Haywire Haywood]

Just got off the phone with the fellow that came up with the Mingo marker.. Great jolly gentleman to chat with. I was asking when he was going to come up with a 20" wheel for the marker and he said it wouldn't be anytime soon as it was $20K to have the mold made.

BUT, he said that he had a solution for me.

He said to get a 14" wheel and add a cam 180 deg to the original so it marks twice a revolution, that is, every 7". Make your cut on every third mark and you have a 21" piece of firewood. I ordered a wheel from him and he threw in the extra cam for free. It'll use more paint, but you'll know your firewood when you see it. It'll have 2 dots on every piece.

Ian

 

[outdoorlivin247]

Never used a Mingo before...Do the wheels get larger or smaller for longer wood...If they get larger/longer, couldn't you just wrap tape around the largest wheel until you acheived the desired length?...Then if you wanted you could make a spacer out of plastic that would press on the old wheel for a more professional look...

 

[DJ4wd]

Anyone try this? I cut my wood 20"-22" in long so the 24" is a waste so is the 18"

 

[Slick]

I use my mingo with the 24" for my owb....would love to make it 23 or 23.5"...all it takes is one cut at a bit of an angle and it doesn't fit in my 24" splitter...grrrr...I was just jumping on two pieces to cram them in last night....

 

[Haywire Haywood]

I have one made up, but have not used it other than just playing around. It does work however. Here's a pic. I used some plastic cement in addition to the screw. --Ian

 

[DJ4wd]

With both wedges on the wheel , is that the one that makes a mark ever 7 inches?

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Yes, that's a 14" wheel with an added wedge for marks every 7"

Ian

 

[mga]

Yes, that's a 14" wheel with an added wedge for marks every 7"

Ian

is that 14" diameter or circumference?

(doing a little thinking here.... lol)

never mind...i figured it out..

 

[2FatGuys]

We use a 16" wheel. Cutting everything to 16" works great for selling (3 rows 4'x8'), storing (3 rows per pallet), and QUICK splitting.

 

[super3]

22" works out best in my stove but, the 2 guys that cut with me have a hell of a time getting 2 pieces the same length. Here is my fix for the mingo for 22" wood.

Cut off the outer ring

Cut out a section to end up with 22" circumference

Spread some epoxy on the ring and clamp back on

End result

 

[Haywire Haywood]

That would work great if the outer ring was good and secure.

Anyone have access to a water jet cutter? You could cut a disc out of a piece of 1/16" aluminum plate with teeth cut into the outer rim. Weld a spacer into the center for a hub, a little wedge for a cam and bob's yer uncle.

Ian

 

[super3]

That would work great if the outer ring was good and secure.
Ian

What................no confidence in my epoxying?

 

[Taxmantoo]

That would work great if the outer ring was good and secure.

Anyone have access to a water jet cutter? You could cut a disc out of a piece of 1/16" aluminum plate with teeth cut into the outer rim. Weld a spacer into the center for a hub, a little wedge for a cam and bob's yer uncle.

Ian

21" / pi = 6.68"

A 42 tooth bicycle chainring is almost exactly 6 3/4". You could probably get a worn out one from a bike shop for free if they don't throw them out the minute they remove them. You'd really want a 41 tooth, but that's rare and you can't have the one I possess.
http://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?ID=10218

 

[Haywire Haywood]

What................no confidence in my epoxying?

I wasn't implying anything against your epoxying skills... I just know that gluing thin plastic is a challenge.

Ian

 

[Haywire Haywood]

21" / pi = 6.68"

A 42 tooth bicycle chainring is almost exactly 6 3/4". You could probably get a worn out one from a bike shop for free if they don't throw them out the minute they remove them. You'd really want a 41 tooth, but that's rare and you can't have the one I possess.

Problem with that is weight (thick steel), plus the center arbor is too large. You'd have to scab a patch on there, redrill the center and then weld in the spacer.

Ian

 

[4seasons]

seems like a lot of trouble

I guess I just don't get it, why buy a plastic tool and paint to make something as simple as firewood? My saw has a 20 inch bar on it, if I want to measure I just put the dog in my last cut and then cut were the nose lands. I can burn up to 24 so as long as it is under it is fine. I just eyeball it and get 18-20 inch with a few oddballs from time to time. But would rather have a few 24s and 16s than have to carry another tool around to keep up with and buy paint.

Am I alone in this or does anyone else think these things are pointless?

 

[Haywire Haywood]

depends on how anal you are about a neat even wood pile... I mean stack.

Ian

 

[Taxmantoo]

Problem with that is weight (thick steel), plus the center arbor is too large. You'd have to scab a patch on there, redrill the center and then weld in the spacer.

Ian

That one I linked was, IIRC, 7075 aluminum, not steel. (and on closeout for $10 if you can't find a used one for free)
A nice crankset (2 arms, two chainrings, and bolts) weighs about a pound and a half. The smaller (42 tooth) chainring alone probably weighs less than 3 ounces. I was thinking you could screw the chainring to a 18" Mongo wheel, but maybe that wouldn't be feasible.

 

[super3]

I guess I just don't get it, why buy a plastic tool and paint to make something as simple as firewood? My saw has a 20 inch bar on it, if I want to measure I just put the dog in my last cut and then cut were the nose lands. I can burn up to 24 so as long as it is under it is fine. I just eyeball it and get 18-20 inch with a few oddballs from time to time. But would rather have a few 24s and 16s than have to carry another tool around to keep up with and buy paint.

Am I alone in this or does anyone else think these things are pointless?

To begin with this thread was about altering an existing tool.

If selling wood consistent lengths make a lot of difference.

My stove also will take 24" wood. 18" wood is just wasting the firebox. Less burn time, less btu's. More cutting, more splitting, more stacking.

Besides as I all ready stated this was done to aid an occasional cutting partner that has a problem with consistency.

 

[4seasons]

To begin with this thread was about altering an existing tool.

If selling wood consistent lengths make a lot of difference.

My stove also will take 24" wood. 18" wood is just wasting the firebox. Less burn time, less btu's. More cutting, more splitting, more stacking.

Besides as I all ready stated this was done to aid an occasional cutting partner that has a problem with consistency.

I get that customers can be picky and would want a consistent length. I wouldn't take someone that was buying wood my odd length, badly split stuff, but it will burn in my stove just fine. I just don't see using spray paint to mark it. I must have overlooked the part about a cutting partner's problem. My father-in-law cuts some short crap so last time he helped me cut I took him a sample length piece and said "This length please." But I know if I had a plastic wheel tool with a spray can it would get broken the 1st time out in the woods.