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Potman44

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I have three problems, all with different trees. One is an older tree, one is brand new, and the other was a tree transplanted from another part of my property.


Let me try to give as much detail and even some pictures so somebody can best help me.



First, the old.

I inherited my grandfathers house last year. During the winter a 75 foot pine was severely damaged in a storm and needed to be taken down. By taking down that pine, an older magnolia tree that previously 75% blocked of sun... now gets full sun 90% of the day.

The other day I noticed bark damage. My mother said it was like that 25 years ago when the house was purchased.

View attachment 141570

But there is another problem, maybe. Half of the tree's canopy was totally blocked by the sun. Leafs and flowers were thin (amount), and some smaller branches looked dead. While the other side of the tree... the part that always got full sun, and has no bark damage..... looks fuller and more alive than ever.

View attachment 141571





Is it going to take a season or two of full sun for the bad half of the tree to regain some life?
Is there anyway to fix the bark?
Is the bark a sign of a bigger problem?
Is the tree on the way out?
Is there anything I can do?




Problem #2. A transplanted tree.

I had a Jap Maple in my backyard. It had close to zero life for as long as I can remember. It was stuck between 2 giant bushes in the corner of my yard under a giant oak. In mid-march before any trees started to bloom I transplanted the tree to another part of the yard that receives plenty of sun, and direct unobstructed rainfall.

In April 80% the tree bloomed. More leafs then it ever had, and they were redder than they ever were. One lower branch never bloomed and since has completely dried out. The smaller branches of the "dead" part snap very easily. In recent weeks, the bright red leafs have started to look unhealthy. Turning a very dull red with some green and yellow. I do water it regularly... so I'm not sure thats a problem....

View attachment 141574

Is this tree dieing?
Is the new sunlight, or the transplant putting the tree in shock?
Anything I can do?



Okay, 3rd problem..... a newly purchased White Dogwood tree.

I said above that I took down a very large pine in January. I had extensive stump and surface root grinding done. I'd say that a 10x15 foot portion of my front lawn was destroyed. All the chippings and mulch was removed and a large "hole" remained in my lawn til early April. I predug a hole where the new tree was to go... right about where the old tree stood. The hole was there waiting for the new tree to arrive for about two weeks. During that time, I noticed that whenever it rained, the hole for the new tree filled with water and stayed for a few days.

Mid April the new Dogwood arrived with 3 yards of top soil and grass seed. I took all standing water out of the tree hole, followed all directions on planting that came with the tree.

The grass grew beautifully, and for 2-3 weeks the Dogwood looked great. Leafs were alive, flowers held on......

About 2 weeks ago I noticed the tree wasnt looking so good. The flowers fell off, and the leaves were turning brown around the edges and drooping. Since then, every leaf has fallen off.

one neighbor said the tree was in shock. Another said it was dead.... and another said it was overwatered.

View attachment 141572

The branches are still flexible and dont snap....

View attachment 141573


Will this tree come back?
Is it dead?
What can I do?



Thanks, I hope somebody can help.
 
Last edited:
Potman, welcome to the site.

The magnolia will take a bit to adjust to the new level of exposure, not just sun but any wind and frost that will be different.

It may, or may not like the change. Unfortunately, that is a matter of time. Perhaps someone with more experience with magnolias will give you a better idea of what to expect. I can just go by other species of trees that we have here and how they have responded to sudden release. Some of these took a full year to come out of their "slump".

The damage to the bark does, indeed, look older. This injury from the past may also explain why that side of the tree has always been thinner than the healthier side. Not just a matter of sun vs shade. Unless you see current insect or fungal activity, there is nothing to do.

Your Japanese maple has also experienced a sudden and complete change. Although your timing for transplanting was good, it is now in full sun as opposed to full shade. This may be hard on the stems and branches that are accustomed to the protection and are now exposed to harsher elements. I would be a bit concerned about sunscald.

You mentioned drainage issues with where your dogwood is planted. What about here with the Japanese maple? They like well-drained soil with a high organic content. If it is sitting in a puddle of water, that could explain the decline as well.

On the new dogwood...I'm going with the overwatered crowd. If it is sitting in a puddle of water...well, same comment as for the Japanese maple.

When planting a tree in an area that has drainage issues, barring putting in underground drainage systems, we recommend to plant them on a berm which will get their roots out of the water. You could create a tree island in the area that was dug from the pine, the 10 X 15', bring in more dirt to build it up and create quite a lovely focal point for your dogwood, enhancing the front yard.

Sylvia
 
MAGNOLIA - the lead has failed as a result of the vascular tissue being exposed by the loss of bark. There are 2 conductive tissues, zylem which carries water up to the leaves, and phloem which brings the sugars/carbs the leaves have "created" (from photosynthesis) to the roots. BOTH of these tissues have been comprimized by the loss of bark. This is called girdling. The affected lead cannot function thus decline.
JAPANESE MAPLE - If some of the lower branches have failed but the rest of the tree is still holding leaves then you may have a case of transplant shock, very common for these trees. Also, if you moved it from an area of partial shade to full sun the tree WILL take time to adjust. Japanese Maples prefer some shade (they are native understory trees) their leaves can over heat in full sun. The leaf picture shows a leaf that I suspect is being OVER watered. Once a week in absence of natural rainfall is plenty of moisture for this tree. Oxygen is the key component of life not water, i.e. how long can a man live without water, how long without oxygen? When too much h2o is applied oxygen is driven out of the pore space in the soil, inhibiting root growth by depriving VITAL soil micro-organisms of the oxygen they need to multiply and attach to the roots.
DOGWOOD - This tree has failed, most likely from transplant shock.
 
Magnolia
So all I can do is sit back and watch over the next few years to see if the "weak side" rebounds from the new surroundings..... well, and I guess hope the bark damage doesnt get any worse.

I read somewhere that if cut around the damaged area into healthy parts of the park, it could help regenerate and heal the wound. But does that only work in terms of fresh damage?

Should I peel off and remove any bark that may be dried out and curling back?



Maple
It was still fairly young. About 8 years old, and about 4.5 feet high. Now it gets direct til about 11am, then it gets only the sun that peaks through the northwestern trees. No real drainage issue in the new location. But you're right, its a drastic change for the tree. Still I think I made the right move... the tree wouldnt have survived in the old location.

So, stop watering it and wait it out? Thats all I can do, right?



Dogwood
When you say "failed"..... what you mean is dead, right? So if I took that tree out of that spot, and redid it.... or put it someplace with better drainage it wont come back to life? Once a tree "fails", there is no coming back?
 
You can remove any bark that is not attached. But reinjuring the healthy tissue will not cause the tree to seal over the old injury. It will simply have to seal the new injury. Can you take another picture of the injured bark up close? What we would be looking for is to see how much callus has developed over the years. This injury could get worse if wood decay fungi sets in that has the ability to also go pathogenic and start engaging live tissue.

Before watering any tree, check the ground first. If it is still wet from the previous watering, wait. However, on new transplants it is better to water less volume and more often as opposed to the mature tree regimen of less often and more volume.

Your dogwood may not be dead. You say that the limbs are still flexible. It could simply have shed its leaves due to the transplant stress. But watch its water also, because this could be a response to overwatering as well. With poorly drained soils, you may have to lengthen the intervals between watering even more. Again, check the soil prior to watering.


Sylvia
 

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