Spalted Pecan

[flht01]

This is a picture of a pecan log I'm going to cut up in a few days. As you can see, the hinge caused it to split partway up the log.

Any suggestions on the best way to cut it? I'm planning on doing a 3 sided cant just like it is in the picture and cutting either 1" or 5/4" boards right thru the split. Maybe I'll get a spalted board or two.

I'm also playing with posting pictures

Kevin

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

I have a big stack of pecan I milled earlier this year. Quarter saw as much as possible. This stuff warps like crazy and the quality of your stack will determine the quality of your lumber. Sticker at 18"-24" o.c. weight it down generously. I determine the thickness of the boards I mill by the width I want them to be ie. up to 4" = 4/4, 4"-6" = 1 1/8, 6"+ = 5/4 (assuming I want flat 3/4" finished stock). Pecan, especially spalted, is beautiful wood but it can be a bugger.

 

[woodshop]

As for how to slice it Kevin, I think you're plan of a 3 sided cant is right on target. Not sure quartersawing pecan is worth it. I suppose the wood would be more stable, but not sure you're going to get any significant grain enhancement from pecan by quartersawing. Just don't know. Slicing through and through as you plan to will get you some quartersawn boards so you can see then. Can't wait to see your boards sliced from that, you might get some nice spalted stuff. If aggies says quartersaw it, go for it, he seems to have more info than us on this wood.

Here is a pecan I cut down few months ago that I havn't gotten to yet, it's not spalted YET, but I can't let it go much longer. The tree has been dying for the last few years, and was dropping limbs, had to come down.

 

[flht01]

I have a big stack of pecan I milled earlier this year. Quarter saw as much as possible. This stuff warps like crazy and the quality of your stack will determine the quality of your lumber. Sticker at 18"-24" o.c. weight it down generously. I determine the thickness of the boards I mill by the width I want them to be ie. up to 4" = 4/4, 4"-6" = 1 1/8, 6"+ = 5/4 (assuming I want flat 3/4" finished stock). Pecan, especially spalted, is beautiful wood but it can be a bugger.

This is a fairly small log, about 14" dia, and will probably get boards 8" to 9" wide +/-. Do you get better quality with the narrower boards? I could rip it to 4" +/- wide before stacking if the end results would be beter. I sure hate the thought of putting these on the bottom of an existing stack but if it's spalted I'll do it for good flat boards. Thanks
Kevin

 

[flht01]

Here is a pecan I cut down few months ago that I havn't gotten to yet, it's not spalted YET, but I can't let it go much longer. The tree has been dying for the last few years, and was dropping limbs, had to come down...

Now THATS a real pecan log. Can't wait to hear what's on the agenda for that wood. Maybe we should start a few posts on what some are using their milled lumber for. I've got several stacks that are starting to show moisture levels right at or just below 20% and it won't be long before I'll be able to use it. When that time comes, ya'll be ready for lot's of questions

Kevin

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

I suppose the wood would be more stable, but not sure you're going to get any significant grain enhancement from pecan by quartersawing. Just don't know.

I mention quartersawing only for stability in this case. Based from my experience with milling, drying and building with pecan, it's worth it.

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

It's looks like you could almost split that log into cants along the checks with a few wedges. It would save you some fuel

 

[dustytools]

I am sure that most experienced woodworkers in here know this but for those that dont, breathing protection such as a cheap respirator or a dust mask should be worn when milling or sanding or just working spalted wood in general. As spalted wood contains spores and fungi that may or may not affect you, I guess that it affects people differently. Not trying to be the surgeon general or anything like that, just passing on a little bit of info.

 

[dustytools]

I did a little research and for anyone interested you can go to www.thewoodbox.com click on wood information then scroll down to spalted wood. This gives you a little information on working with spalted woods.

 

[flht01]

I am sure that most experienced woodworkers in here know this but for those that dont, breathing protection such as a cheap respirator or a dust mask should be worn when milling or sanding or just working spalted wood in general. As spalted wood contains spores and fungi that may or may not affect you, I guess that it affects people differently. Not trying to be the surgeon general or anything like that, just passing on a little bit of info.

Good advice, I'll be using a handheld bandsaw (plenty of fine dust) and didn't think about the dust containing the fungi/spores. I'll try to post a few pictures (now that I know how)

Kevin

 

[woodshop]

This is a fairly small log, about 14" dia, and will probably get boards 8" to 9" wide +/-. Do you get better quality with the narrower boards? I could rip it to 4" +/- wide before stacking if the end results would be beter. I sure hate the thought of putting these on the bottom of an existing stack but if it's spalted I'll do it for good flat boards. Thanks
Kevin

If I were slicing it up, I would not rip to thinner boards unless you have a specific need for boards that size. In general, the wider the board the more worth it has, since you have more options what you can do with it. Again, I've never sliced and dried pecan yet, so just don't know. Aggie has, and says its a tough wood to dry, so make sure you have lots of weight on the stack. If you're thinking of ripping to 4 inch so they won't twist up as much when drying, not sure that would help the situation. Worse case, if some of the board DO warp and twist a bit during drying, you can always rip/crosscut/jointer/planer them to smaller size THEN. Just my way to looking at it.

I have no idea what I am going to do with that pecan wood in that pic when I get to it, other than make a few Shaker side tables from some to see how they look in pecan. I figured about 2K bd ft from that tree if I mill the whole thing, which I probably won't have time for. Going to take the best 1000 ft or so, and the rest will probably end up at firewood. I've been sick for the last 3 weeks though, still don't have energy to mill wood. Patience...

Yes aggie, hope those natural splits don't go too far into that log... don't think they do, but if I have to knock a few feet off the butt end, there is plenty there for that.

 

[flht01]

If I were slicing it up, I would not rip to thinner boards unless you have a specific need for boards that size. In general, the wider the board the more worth it has, since you have more options what you can do with it. Again, I've never sliced and dried pecan yet, so just don't know. Aggie has, and says its a tough wood to dry, so make sure you have lots of weight on the stack. If you're thinking of ripping to 4 inch so they won't twist up as much when drying, not sure that would help the situation. Worse case, if some of the board DO warp and twist a bit during drying, you can always rip/crosscut/jointer/planer them to smaller size THEN. Just my way to looking at it.

I have no idea what I am going to do with that pecan wood in that pic when I get to it, other than make a few Shaker side tables from some to see how they look in pecan. I figured about 2K bd ft from that tree if I mill the whole thing, which I probably won't have time for. Going to take the best 1000 ft or so, and the rest will probably end up at firewood. I've been sick for the last 3 weeks though, still don't have energy to mill wood. Patience...

Yes aggie, hope those natural splits don't go too far into that log... don't think they do, but if I have to knock a few feet off the butt end, there is plenty there for that.

Since this is such a small log I'm just going to slab it and see what it looks like. I've got a stack I can take down, put these on the bottom and restack the other boards in reverse order (putting the driest boards on top). The weight should help it dry straight. I've got a few 4/4 boards that was cut on a woodmizer last October and air dried without weight. I'll try to get a few pictures, some dried straight but most left a lot to be desired. Since they were cut 4/4 and didn't dry as straight as I'd like, I'll probable rip and plane them into door trim. At least that's what I'm thinking for now, I just don't have enough experience going from rough sawn lumber to finished stock to know what else to do with it.
Kevin

 

[scottr]

Intentional Spalting

Here's a thread that you might find interesting . http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Intentional_Spalting.html

 

[woodshop]

Best way to keep nasty stuff out of your lungs when milling is a respirator like in the pic below. Yeah its a pain in the tusch till you get used to it, like any other ppe, then its just something else to pop on before you fire up the mill. Keeps that REAL fine sawdust a bandsaw or a csm makes out of your lungs, as well as any bad spores from spalting, and also keeps exhaust from the saw at bay, which in the case of a Ripsaw or csm, is close to your face.

 

[Woodsurfer]

Spalted or rotten and punky... a fine line.

Here is some more yellow birch I slabbed this weekend. This was down for about 15 months. Definately some spalting happening!

In retrospect, I wish I had worn a mask.
Wood looks good!

Good luck with the pecan!

 

[flht01]

Best way to keep nasty stuff out of your lungs when milling is a respirator like in the pic below. ...

Are you using the charcoal filters or the dust filters? I've got a mask I used years ago when spraying automotive paints with hardeners. It has both the charcoal and dust filters, I'm leaning towards dust only.

Spalted or rotten and punky... a fine line.

Here is some more yellow birch I slabbed this weekend. This was down for about 15 months. Definately some spalting happening!
...
Good luck with the pecan!

Nice looking wood. Some rot, especially on the ends is a small price for the nice patterns the spalting creates. What you got planned for the birch?

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

Spalted or rotten and punky... a fine line.

Here is some more yellow birch I slabbed this weekend. This was down for about 15 months. Definately some spalting happening!

In retrospect, I wish I had worn a mask.
Wood looks good!

Good luck with the pecan!

Very nice looking stuff. "A fine line" is the truth. Nothing a little epoxy based stabilizer won't take care of.

 

[woodshop]

Are you using the charcoal filters or the dust filters?

Using the charcoal filters because they filter out the carbon monoxide from the saw. When your milling with a Ripsaw or csm, sometimes your face is right down near the saw as your pushing down the log, thus the exhaust is right there, and the charcoal filter takes care of that.

 

[Woodsurfer]

I can see making some small tables with the birch. With 18" boards, we're talking one piece tops... Bookshelves, picture frames, little boxes, are other typical projects for me. The spalt would look nice in a frame since I can rip out strips that go well together.

Funny, in half an afternoon I can mill enough wood to keep me busy in the shop for months. Ain't complaining!:biggrinbounce2:

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

I can see making some small tables with the birch. With 18" boards, we're talking one piece tops... Bookshelves, picture frames, little boxes, are other typical projects for me. The spalt would look nice in a frame since I can rip out strips that go well together.

Funny, in half an afternoon I can mill enough wood to keep me busy in the shop for months. Ain't complaining!:biggrinbounce2:

Not to mention how much that lumber would have cost you at the store. Great job.