Splitter cylinder leaking and Live Oak questions

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I jacked up my 20 ton log splitter foolishly trying it on some live oak rounds last year. It is leaking pretty bad under any pressure. Is it worth rebuilding those or do guys typically swap them out? I found a new 24x4 with a 2 inch rod is about 250.


Also anyone know a decent way to split live oak? Would it help to rip the rounds in half first with a saw then try to split?
 
Yes they can be rebuilt cheaper then buying a new one. Some places will simply swap them out or rebuild your actual cylinder.
As for the live oak, get a bigger splitter. I had a Husky 22 ton splitter that would split any red oak or post easily, she would struggle on pecan and even refuse to split even the smallest of live oak rounds. Live oak is tough stuff, no question. I up graded to a bigger unit (Cluntyline 40 ton) I can now split live oak and pecan with ease. My new unit is a far superior splitter over the 22 ton unit I had been using.
 
Just to clarify your issue with the leaking cylinder. Splitting hard woods won't cause the cylinder to leak or blow seals. Splitters are designed with a pressure limiter. So it will only produce a max pressure. However if the relief valve malfunctions or has been tampered with, then it could exceed the pressure limit it was designed for. The cylinder and all other components are designed to withstand the maximum pressures you'll see under operating conditions. My Husky was over 15 years old and had thousands of hours on it, it never leaked a drop of oil.
 
I jacked up my 20 ton log splitter foolishly trying it on some live oak rounds last year. It is leaking pretty bad under any pressure. Is it worth rebuilding those or do guys typically swap them out? I found a new 24x4 with a 2 inch rod is about 250.


Also anyone know a decent way to split live oak? Would it help to rip the rounds in half first with a saw then try to split?
Ram seals usually go bad from one of two things , contaminants from a pump going south or side-loading the cylinder and forcing the rod into the gland. If it's leaking and needs a re-seal then a shop might be able to do it cost effectively but if there's damaged chrome and you need the rod & gland replaced I'd go with the cheap new unit you found...
 
What I have seen in the past is that cyl can last a looong time if not abused. Usually a $35 seal kit will cure the leaks. Now if the oil is ran with lots of contaminates, the cyl barrel can wear and at that point a rebuild is useless. You wont know until the cyl is taken apart where you can look at it. The other thing that can ruin a cyl, or make it cost prohibited to rebuild is over pressure. Its hard to tell without a bore mic, but the barrel of the cyl can expand like a balloon being blowed up. A swelled barrel will give internal leakage with fluid bypassing the piston. New seals wont fix this and the symtems are not usually leaking oil. You could also have the bent rod problem with the rod rubbing on the side of the gland, wearing the gland out, you will get a lot of leakage around the rod shaft if that happens. My guess, and I havent seen the machine so its just a opinion, the extra pressure needed to bust that live oak, probably bent/bowed the rod as it was trying to push thru the wood. Only fix is a new rod. If this is the case, the $250 new cyl starts to look like a bargain.
 
I asked the place I had the lines for the splitter made and they didn't even have a way to order a kit.

Just to clarify your issue with the leaking cylinder. Splitting hard woods won't cause the cylinder to leak or blow seals. Splitters are designed with a pressure limiter. So it will only produce a max pressure. However if the relief valve malfunctions or has been tampered with, then it could exceed the pressure limit it was designed for. The cylinder and all other components are designed to withstand the maximum pressures you'll see under operating conditions. My Husky was over 15 years old and had thousands of hours on it, it never leaked a drop of oil.

I will try to look into this. I don't THINK it had any contaminants because it had new fluid and hoses and a flushing a few years ago and it obviously a closed system. So if another mechanical problem is too blame better to check it out.
 
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I asked the place I had the lines for the splitter made and they didn't even have a way to order a kit.



I will try to look into this. I don't THINK it had any contaminants because it had new fluid and hoses and a flushing a few years ago and it obviously a closed system. So if another mechanical problem is too blame better to check it out.

I wouldn't worry about it unless the problem shows up again. I've had brand new cylinders leak for no apparent reason. Once you get'er fixed, just run it as is, chances are it will be fine from then on.
 
Pull it apart and take all the seals to an industrial supply/bearing and seal house. Or look online. They are almost always std Parker seal dimensions, or just o rings and backup washers if cheap chinese cylinders.
But check the side loading and pressure issues. A proper system should have a relief valve and be able to stall all day long without damaging any mechanical parts (other than excessively heating up). Hard wood do twist and load things, but if it is done right, they should stall and not damage anything.That is one of the great advantages of hydraulics.
 
I jacked up my 20 ton log splitter foolishly trying it on some live oak rounds last year. It is leaking pretty bad under any pressure. Is it worth rebuilding those or do guys typically swap them out? I found a new 24x4 with a 2 inch rod is about 250.


Also anyone know a decent way to split live oak? Would it help to rip the rounds in half first with a saw then try to split?
Where in Texas are you?

Hal
 
I jacked up my 20 ton log splitter foolishly trying it on some live oak rounds last year. It is leaking pretty bad under any pressure. Is it worth rebuilding those or do guys typically swap them out? I found a new 24x4 with a 2 inch rod is about 250.


Also anyone know a decent way to split live oak? Would it help to rip the rounds in half first with a saw then try to split?
Live oak should be no issue for a 20 ton splitter. Some times the grain twists around the tree. A 24" round really should be split with few problems. I cut up rounds larger that 30" - more so I can move them than for the splitter.
 
Where in Texas are you?

Hal

About 200 miles southeast of Killeen. If you have any suggestions for a place for rebuilding it would be a huge help!

Live oak should be no issue for a 20 ton splitter. Some times the grain twists around the tree. A 24" round really should be split with few problems. I cut up rounds larger that 30" - more so I can move them than for the splitter.

That hasn't been my experience but hopefully with a new cylinder or refresh I can tackle them. They burn fantastic and I have several down that are green and ready to be sliced and diced.
 
Take the cylinder apart, keep things clean, see what all you need for o rings and seals. The last one I just rebuilt cost a whopping 16 bucks, I handed the guy a 20 and said keep the change, he said "I can't" ...LOL and that was at a fairly large shop. The guy walked back and grabbed the little ziplock bags off the shelf without even looking up part numbers, I took the head of the cylinder with me. Post a pic of the cylinder, maybe we can talk you through taking it apart.
 
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