Splitter problem

[turnkey4099]

Just a problem with my oil tank.

I got my splitter chopped apart and raised 9". Now my hoses don't reach. I will need to get a new 3/4" one made for the pressure side. I am trying to avoid havign to drain the tank to change the hose over. Draining the tank is not a simple operation as, when I was building it, I didn't know just how the tank would wind up. Put in two drain plugs 'just in case'. Well both of them wound up 1/2 way up the tank as built.



Will oil flow through a gear pump and spill or is the pump tight enough to avoid spillage?

Harry K

 

[cmetalbend]

Well you coud either rotate the tank away from the hose (pics would really help) or pinch it move to a location where you could drain it into somthing. Or if you can get the pump above the fluid level it won't drain anywhere. Pinching the feed line might get it. I don't think pumps are that tight. I never tried it.

 

[cabinman]

Hung

Just a problem with my oil tank.

I got my splitter chopped apart and raised 9". Now my hoses don't reach. I will need to get a new 3/4" one made for the pressure side. I am trying to avoid havign to drain the tank to change the hose over. Draining the tank is not a simple operation as, when I was building it, I didn't know just how the tank would wind up. Put in two drain plugs 'just in case'. Well both of them wound up 1/2 way up the tank as built.



Will oil flow through a gear pump and spill or is the pump tight enough to avoid spillage?

Harry K

Harry, Like CMB said,.figure out a way to (tip) your tank so It dont leak out the feed line,..Do you have a shop crain?... otherwise, I guess your gona have 2 drain it,..E,J,

 

[Mike Van]

Harry, the oil will come through the pump, not like an open hose, but it will flow. Having the new hose ready to go, [an extra set of hands helps too] un-do the old one, thread the new right in, you shouldn't lose much. Tipping the splitter if you can will help too. If you have a vented cap on your tank, change it to a non-vented one if you can, just to do the hose - that'll slow the flow too if it can't suck air in.

 

[mga]

why not just have 9" extensions made to attach to the hoses that are there?

a coupling would do the trick. that way you won't have to remove the hose from the tank, just disconnect at the control valve.

and, it'll save a few bucks.

 

[kevin j]

don't pinch the hose, that can damage the coils or braids.
Yes it will drool but not much if you are talking the pressure hose through the pump. It may drain a lot coming back from tank line thrugh the filter and valve.

Put a shop vac on the tank fill port. Pulling a vaccum minimizes the losses. Do that a lot with big tanks. give you time to cap a hose or port without losing much. shop va is not enough vacuum to cause and tank wall issues sucking in.

k

 

[turnkey4099]

Thanks for the replies. I was hoping for a miracle but got the answer I expected. Bite the bullet and drain it.

The errors made when building it are amazing. The "extend the hose" is still under consideration. I will probably do that using pipe but see next:

Undo it at the valve...etc.: That was my first plan until I looked and saw the idiot (me) had put the hose on upside down, i.e., the swivel is at the pump outlet, not at the valve where it should have been.

At least the motor/pump/tank assembly is off the splitter and I can move it around. It is awkward but I can see a lot of spilled oil before I am done. Not gonna be a matter of putting a drain pan under it - too big and awkward. Might be able to use dunnage to get it up high enough and at the right slope to drain though.

I'll take a pic of it just for y'alls chuckles.

Harry K

 

[mga]

The errors made when building it are amazing. The "extend the hose" is still under consideration. I will probably do that using pipe but see next:

Undo it at the valve...etc.: That was my first plan until I looked and saw the idiot (me) had put the hose on upside down, i.e., the swivel is at the pump outlet, not at the valve where it should have been.

so? just buy two swivels and leave the others there. it'll still be cheaper and less time consuming adding extension hoses.

 

[boostnut]

Be careful if you try to make up the difference with pipe as you mentioned. You'll be ok on the return side but common schedule 40 pipe fittings should not be used on the pressure side, they're an accident waiting to happen. I wouldn't even use sch.40 pipe. Buy the correct fittings and or hoses, they'll be cheaper than a trip to the E.R.

 

[kevin j]

forgot, if these are NPT fixed ends you will have to spin one end. I am used to jic and ORFS swivel everywhere.

before draining, try the shop vac first. you may be surprised.
loosen the swivel at the pump just slightly, then spin the entire hose to unscrew it from the top valve end. Then add a loose swivel up top when you put it back with longer hose or short hose extensions.

 

[turnkey4099]

An hours work and it is apart.

As it was when I found the hoses too short (I had expected that)

Studying the problem. I just layed it on its side, undid the swivel at the pump and promptly dripped oil out of the loose hose all over the floor. Then used a hacksaw to cut off the return line.

Waiting for the lengthening operation.

I think I will bite the bullet and get a new hose made for the pressure side, cut up the old one to replace the return line. If I do extend the pressure hose with pipe I dunno which end would be better considering vibration, etc.

The pipe fittings are a bit dubious but those came out of the parts bins at the plant where we built huge fertilyzer applicators. Our machines used up to 100 ft and more of sched 40 pipe per machine, never heard of one leaking. I know their use is discouraged. The fittings were, however, heavy duty and I may replace all of the standard ones on the pressure side.


Harry K

 

[cabinman]

Vacume

Kevinj, is right on using a vacume cleaner on the filler neck/cap, CASE dealers pratice that method, so they can open up a resivior without draining the oil, I forgot about it when I posted, But it does work, all you have to do is crack the line and see If it leaks,. E,J,

 

[turnkey4099]

Finished it today I hope. Some doubt about the hose fittings leaking. They turned inside the hose, vice at the swivel. Those hoses are 22 years old and were salvage ones when I got them

Motor still out for overhaul.

Would look a lot better with a coat of paint but I got laid off at the plant before I could sneak it though the paint shed

Harry K

 

[cabinman]

Stupid

Finished it today I hope. Some doubt about the hose fittings leaking. They turned inside the hose, vice at the swivel. Those hoses are 22 years old and were salvage ones when I got them

Motor still out for overhaul.

Would look a lot better with a coat of paint but I got laid off at the plant before I could sneak it though the paint shed

Harry K

Stupid, I guess,.. And luckey 2 boot, We used sch 40 pipe on fertilizer trucks for 40 years, It banged the pop off many times, But didnt blow anything, I guess we were just Stupid luckey,..I dont build them like that any more,.E,J,

 

[cabinman]

Many, Times

Stupid, I guess,.. And luckey 2 boot, We used sch 40 pipe on fertilizer trucks for 40 years, It banged the pop off many times, But didnt blow anything, I guess we were just Stupid luckey,..I dont build them like that any more,.E,J,

When I say Many times,..I mean MANY times per DAY, Sthil not a GOOD idea,..All tho STHIL is a good Idea,...LOLOL E,J,

 

[wireedm]

When changing the hoses...........

You could have also ran the ram as far out as possible on the hydraulic cylinder.

This would have substantially lowered the amount of fluid into the tank.

 

[turnkey4099]

When changing the hoses...........

You could have also ran the ram as far out as possible on the hydraulic cylinder.

This would have substantially lowered the amount of fluid into the tank.

As it turned out there was no problem to begin wth. After I laid it on its side, I didn't lose a drop of oil other than what came out of the hoses when I disconnected them. Will need to add back a coupl quarts as it a dip stick shows it is (and must have been) low.

Harry K

 

[cmetalbend]

When changing the hoses...........

You could have also ran the ram as far out as possible on the hydraulic cylinder.

This would have substantially lowered the amount of fluid into the tank.

This would do nothing to help. Two way hydralics don't work that way. The same amount of fluid used to move the ram one way is exhausted out the other end. One way hydralic's and yes this would help.

 

[turnkey4099]

You are forgetting that the rod takes up fluid. In the extended position the cylinder holds more oil, retracted it holds less oil because the cylinder rod takes up space.

It shouldn't be a big factor. If it is the tank is way too small!

According to current standards mine is _way_ too small. It was built back in the early days. I would estimate it holds at most two gallons but it doesn't get but a little bit warm. I suppose that _could_ be due to slow cycle time...suspect it is more due to speed of the operator

Harry K