Splitting queston

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How many mechanical splitters users have gone back to an axe/maul?

  • Use splitter for everything

    Votes: 23 45.1%
  • Use splitter for everything I can pick up or split vertically

    Votes: 10 19.6%
  • I am a man and don't need no stinkin splitter, I am an axe/maul guy

    Votes: 17 33.3%
  • I don't split wood, I like it wet

    Votes: 1 2.0%

  • Total voters
    51
I prefer the most efficient tool for the job. Hand splitting is my preferred method for up to 2 cords in a day on one jobsite. If I am skidding to a landing and it is going to be considerably more, 3 point mount Iron & Oak with a 4 way. Split 8-10 cord in a day that way. I have a strapping young lad who also loves to swing a maul or the X27 along side me.

The manual splitting is faster and I don't have to jockey equipment for the smaller jobs. That being said, Elm=mechanical splitter.
 
@cantoo Yeah, I imagine it'd be heavy. Maybe put it on a splitter?
I'm in Shikoku (southwest of Osaka) deep in the mountains. I don't teach, I do artwork. You said you came to build houses. Was this after the Kobe earthquake or something? I'm a pretty big fan of the old school Japanese carpentry. Did you learn any while here?
 
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What the heck?!? :eek::eek:


I love my Super Split, but I still like to chop for the exercise, but I haven't had time to do it much. Kids mostly split the firewood now.

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Now that is a real man's axe.:muscle:
 
I love to split with a maul, X27, or a single bit axe but since shoulder surgery, I resurrected the splitter I built about 35 years ago and will be using it until the shoulder has had plenty of time to heal - planning on about 1 year. If I couldn't split it by hand, I would saw into smaller sections vertically - I don't like noodles all over the place.
 
As a kid I split by hand a lot as we didn't have an option. dad got a cone splitter and he used that then he made a hydro that did pretty good.

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Ron, you may want to try the electric manual splitter from Whamo. Puts the friskies to shame. ;)

Seriously though, I don't do hand splitting anymore since I built my splitter. I don't even have to roll them around as I let the winch drag them in and pick them up. I use the maul as a backup but it has not been used since this was built.

MVC-001S_3.JPG
 
I'm a big hand splitting guy and proponent of the S2800 in specific. However I'm on the lookout for a splitter, most likely a DHT because I've been coming across more yard trees that more or less require mechanical splitting.

It's great fun to bust up a cord or two of birch by hand. OTOH going after 40 plus inch yard trees with a twisted trunk isn't my idea of a good time.
 
I'm a big hand splitting guy and proponent of the S2800 in specific. However I'm on the lookout for a splitter, most likely a DHT because I've been coming across more yard trees that more or less require mechanical splitting.

It's great fun to bust up a cord or two of birch by hand. OTOH going after 40 plus inch yard trees with a twisted trunk isn't my idea of a good time.

All I have to do to get those twisted 40" rounds split is invite any one of my teen daughter's girlfriends to go with us. My teenage son will split granite boulders if there is a girl to impress.
 
IyaMan, we shipped prebuilt house sections to Japan. A few of us went over there to help teach them how to put them together. We sent several hundred houses over. Was more than 15 years ago now and most of the names escape me but we dealt with many Building companies there. They were interested in our 2x4 construction methods. We actually had a couple of our houses in the Kobe district and they survived total damage when other houses near them collapsed. It was felt that the 2x4 construction allowed the houses to flex whereas the post and beam style houses shook apart and collapsed.
 
@cantoo that's interesting to know. For a long time (1970s-1990s) Japan shunned wood frame homes. One factor being earthquakes (steel/concrete supposedly stronger), the others reasons being the number of floors allowed (no more than 2 floors in Japan with wood), the reduced interest in private homes (it was an era of going condo) and the fact that wood molds easily in super humid Japan. Also, the fire risk is a major concern, especially in earthquakes (not necessarily ones own home, but for fire starting in a neighboring home when everything is so packed together)
But in the past 15 years wood construction has had bit of a return. Aside from seeing how strong it can be (US 2x4 methods are superior to what was happening in the post WW2 era Japan ...maybe you even helped letting people realize this), but new anti-mold methods are now available. And wood is way way cheaper than concrete/steel. Actually, as wood was so common pre-1980, a ridiculous amount of tree farms were planted back then, but never harvested. There is so much cedar and cyprus in the countryside now its become a problem in many ways (trees are becoming too big; half the country has now developed allergies to the pollen; the monoculture is bad for animals; the lack of demand and oversupply has made the trees almost worthless to the landowners). Cities now even subsidize material costs if someone chooses locally sourced wood in new builds.
As for me, I have a whole mountainside of cedar/cyprus around me which the owners let me use as I will (which is why I plan to start milling). If they ever want it harvested professionally it'll almost costs more to extract than for the price of the log (too mountainous). And even with renewed interest in wood homes happening , lumber sourced from Japan is still more expensive than stuff imported from New Zealand, Canada, or China. Actually, most Japanese trees are just ground up into pulp for tissues and notebooks.
 
@cantoo that's interesting to know. For a long time (1970s-1990s) Japan shunned wood frame homes. One factor being earthquakes (steel/concrete supposedly stronger), the others reasons being the number of floors allowed (no more than 2 floors in Japan with wood), the reduced interest in private homes (it was an era of going condo) and the fact that wood molds easily in super humid Japan. Also, the fire risk is a major concern, especially in earthquakes (not necessarily ones own home, but for fire starting in a neighboring home when everything is so packed together)
But in the past 15 years wood construction has had bit of a return. Aside from seeing how strong it can be (US 2x4 methods are superior to what was happening in the post WW2 era Japan ...maybe you even helped letting people realize this), but new anti-mold methods are now available. And wood is way way cheaper than concrete/steel. Actually, as wood was so common pre-1980, a ridiculous amount of tree farms were planted back then, but never harvested. There is so much cedar and cyprus in the countryside now its become a problem in many ways (trees are becoming too big; half the country has now developed allergies to the pollen; the monoculture is bad for animals; the lack of demand and oversupply has made the trees almost worthless to the landowners). Cities now even subsidize material costs if someone chooses locally sourced wood in new builds.
As for me, I have a whole mountainside of cedar/cyprus around me which the owners let me use as I will (which is why I plan to start milling). If they ever want it harvested professionally it'll almost costs more to extract than for the price of the log (too mountainous). And even with renewed interest in wood homes happening , lumber sourced from Japan is still more expensive than stuff imported from New Zealand, Canada, or China. Actually, most Japanese trees are just ground up into pulp for tissues and notebooks.

Cedar and cyprus logs in plenty and for cheap sounds like log cabin material, as opposed to stick frame.
 
zogger, fire is a huge issue in Japan. You think Cities here are crowded, Japan is 10 times as bad. And they have many buildings that are 100's of years old.
lyaMan, most of the houses we did had a cement board or steel exterior finish. Clay tile roves. They were also treated on site for bugs. And of course all lumber was JAS #1. There is a new company here who is making really big advancements in multi story buildings. Process is same idea as shipping containers but allow for a much wider variety of building. My brother who also went to Japan (he went for almost a year) has done some work with this new company. I'm hoping to do a factory tour soon and also have them come to our factory. Maybe we will get back into the Japanese market someday soon.
http://connexiobuilding.com/portfolio/
 
I think that no matter the location a stick built home should be about the same. In Japan or California the forces of an earthquake are the same and so is the strength of a building that was built the same. I would no way substitute a cedar 2x4 for an SPF 2x4 but I wouldn't want to do that in California either. Everything is what it is after all.
 
One thing for me that has changed a lot is what the splits look like when mechanically split vs. by hand. When I split by hand pieces generally resemble "pie shaped" pieces that are triangular. Now with the splitter, most end up looking like thin rectangles that are often 1-2" thick depending on how big the pieces are. The latter pieces have much more surface area and dry faster. The stacks are more stable to.
 
One thing for me that has changed a lot is what the splits look like when mechanically split vs. by hand. When I split by hand pieces generally resemble "pie shaped" pieces that are triangular. Now with the splitter, most end up looking like thin rectangles that are often 1-2" thick depending on how big the pieces are. The latter pieces have much more surface area and dry faster. The stacks are more stable to.

That's why when I hand split I try to thin slab off the outside pieces with the bark, leaving the interior heartwood. Then you can get those nice more square splits. I hardly ever go right down the middle to split except for those that are only going in two pieces.

edit: of course my all time fav is zogger wood, no splittin needed! That wheelbarrow load is pure smalls, no splits whatsoever, good stuff for this cool but not cold weather.
 

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I went from a maul to a Timberwolf - tW5 - HATED IT ! It picked up the big logs and put them on the beam - then it split them 6 ways with each stroke. The splits went onto a table so I didnt even have to bend over. I hardly had to do anything at all but roll the rounds over to the splitter. Didnt even feel like splitting wood at all. Very disappointed.......
 
I went from a maul to a Timberwolf - tW5 - HATED IT ! It picked up the big logs and put them on the beam - then it split them 6 ways with each stroke. The splits went onto a table so I didnt even have to bend over. I hardly had to do anything at all but roll the rounds over to the splitter. Didnt even feel like splitting wood at all. Very disappointed.......

BWAHAHAHAHA, I bet you hated it! hehehehehe dump truck load in like ten minutes..
 
I went from a maul to a Timberwolf - tW5 - HATED IT ! It picked up the big logs and put them on the beam - then it split them 6 ways with each stroke. The splits went onto a table so I didnt even have to bend over. I hardly had to do anything at all but roll the rounds over to the splitter. Didnt even feel like splitting wood at all. Very disappointed.......

I call BS!

I still see a TW5 in ur profile and no mention of said super maul ...I think you like mechanized splitting more than you let on.
 
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