Splitting Wedges

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pafire

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After using my splitting wedges to quarter some large pieces of red oak and elm my wedges are starting to mushroom at the top. What methods do you guys use to reshape the head of the wedge back to the original shape?
 
Grinding a good 45 deg. campher around the strike area works well.

As for me, I like to rip blocks right down the tuffest knotts or grain and finish with a splitting mall, ,,,, I guess I'm just getting old and would rather sharpen chain then mushroom wedges!

Kevin
 
I've used a torch before. It works fine. You want the top soft anyway, so don't worry about temper.
And, don't wait so long.
 
Jim Mesthene said:
I've used a torch before. It works fine. You want the top soft anyway, so don't worry about temper.
And, don't wait so long.

Thanks. That is on my project list. Currently working on saw maintenance in preparation for spring...well actually just to be playing with them. Having withdrawal symptoms as I haven't cut anything since Nov.

Harry K
 
Grind them or file them, please don't torch them. Splitting wedges are typically a mid to high carbon steel so they will react to the heat of the torch. Likely you'll get a real mixed microstructure in the metal with large grain sizes. All put together the torched wedges will mushroom more, assuming you just let it cool slowly and don't throw it into a bucket of cold water to quench it.

If you quench the hot torched wedge in water you'll likely get localized hard spots and quench cracks. The localized hard spots will chip off at very high velocities when struck by the maul or sledge. The impact force from the maul or sledge will accelerate chips fast enough to pierce your clothing and enter your body. The chips are typically the size of the tip of your finger. And the quench cracks will cause much large pieces to break of unexpectedly.

Please grind'em or file'em.
 
DON'T quench them.
I torched some wedges I found at a yard sale, that had been grossly mushroomed. I torched them, let them cool naturally, then cleaned them up with a grinder. As I said, you want the top soft anyway. Torching is for reclaiming ruined wedges, not for maintainance.
One could also argue that the process of torching the mushroomed parts off annealed the work-hardened steel and made chipping less likely.
The real trick is: Don't wait so long.
 
Always used a hacksaw, doesn't mess with the temper, quick run-over with a large flatbastard to take off the sharps (a bit 'o' hammering will do the same). Just scored a beauty antique rail wedge, hand forged out of trainrail I think circa early 1800's, gonna be nice to keep it working :)
 
Oregon Engineer said:
Grind them or file them, please don't torch them. Splitting wedges are typically a mid to high carbon steel so they will react to the heat of the torch. Likely you'll get a real mixed microstructure in the metal with large grain sizes. All put together the torched wedges will mushroom more, assuming you just let it cool slowly and don't throw it into a bucket of cold water to quench it.

If you quench the hot torched wedge in water you'll likely get localized hard spots and quench cracks. The localized hard spots will chip off at very high velocities when struck by the maul or sledge. The impact force from the maul or sledge will accelerate chips fast enough to pierce your clothing and enter your body. The chips are typically the size of the tip of your finger. And the quench cracks will cause much large pieces to break of unexpectedly.

Please grind'em or file'em.

Okay, that sounds right and was really what I was wondering about. Grinder it is.

Harry K
 

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