Country1
ArboristSite Guru
Yeah, my 441 seems to start the exact same way and it's not cold natured like some have experianced....
starting a MS361
- Thread starter LHJim
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
THALL10326
The Champ
I got a new 361. Tried to start it last Saturday and could not get it to start. Oh yeah I read the manual and know for a cold start the switch should be on cold start. And when the moment you feel the saw turn over you should move the switch up to the warm start. Pressing the trigger will move the switch up to the run position. I had the decomp pressed in and the brake on.
I will say that I *think* the saw started to turn and I did not move from cold start to warm start fast enough (is this supposed to be instanteous?.) However I think the saw could/will still start up and probably (can) run 30 seconds at the cold start before moving the switch to run start. Not sure what I am doing wrong. But I have the spark plug out now and will try again (the decomp is still pressed in...and when I do not start it is it ok to leave this decomp in?) but its supposed to rain the rest of the week. Dang this rain...but everything is greener
Does the saw need to have anything adjusted after running two or three tanks of gas thru it? Does anyone run 93 octane but look for gas with 0% ethanol in it? Not sure if this is the way to do it? I also have the 6 pack mix but does anyone recommend to run the ultra mix? I plan to run 93 in it but not sure if its better to run non-ethanol fuel and if so I'd have to look for it as every gas station here has ethanol.
Thanks for your help guys!
Dayumm Jim didn't they show you how to start that saw,LOL Lets make it easy. Remember it will NOT run on full choke, not 30 seconds, not 5 seconds, not 1 second. It will only fire on full choke. The 361 will not run very long on the fast idle half choke position either, it will start to bog if run more than 15-20 seconds on the half choke fast idle position. The only Stihl in the entire line up that does that. It may not cut off in the half choke fast idle position but boy it will sure load up on fuel if allowed to run in that mode.
Here's how ya do it.
1. Depress the trigger and push the choke lever all the way down to the full choke position.
2. Crank the saw and listen. You should hear it attempt to start after a couple of pulls. If there is a nosiy airplane overhead wait till it passes so you can hear the saw fire.
3. When you hear it attempt to start raise the choke lever up one notch, keep your finger OFF the trigger when you raise the lever. If your pressing the trigger when going up one notch the lever will skip over the half choke fast idle position and jump to idle position.
4. In the half choke fast idle position crank the saw and it should fire up within a couple of pulls. It will run fast for a few seconds. You will notice it starting to sound like its loading up on fuel because it is within a few seconds.
5. At that point squeeze the trigger. That releases the lever and it will automaticly go to the run position. Rev the saw alittle bit to clear it out and go cut some wood.
Here's another thing to watch for. When you sit that saw down for a period during use. You don't know if its entirely cold but you also know if its not entirely warmed up either due to sitting . In that deal use the run position first. If it won't start on the run position try the half choke position next before trying the full choke position on the lever. The 361 is fussy but you'll get the hang of it....
For all that info I wanna know what you paid for that saw??
SawTroll
Information Collector
Yes!
Cold start = choke.
Warm start (bad expression) = fast idle = halv choke (not really, but some call it that - LOL)
Run = on = idle. When the saw is really warm, it will start on a "halv-pull" in that position (see THALLs post).....
I agree with WT on drop-starting, but put the chain brake on when doing it!
Last edited:
litefoot
Addicted to ArboristSite
Why is the dang decomp there in the first place if its not needed...I hope Stihl does not add the decomp and the add $79 to the final price of the saw...
Stihl puts the decomp on the 260 Pro too. Neither the 361 nor the 260 need it. I think it does more to enhance each saws image, than to provide any beneficial function.
Country1
ArboristSite Guru
That's exactly what I think too, just didn't feel like typing it...
SawTroll
Information Collector
Totally agree!
:agree2:...except with the expression "halv choke".... :greenchainsaw:
windthrown
361 Junkie
For those of you that are Stihl confused:
There are 4 right thumb lever positions on any Stihl saw.
Full choke on any Stihl is the lever pressed all the way down. That is also called the cold start position. It is for cold starting only, and only good until the saw rumbles over, pops, or fires. Any more tries to start in this position after that happens and it will just flood.
Fast Idle on any Stihl is the lever pressed one up from full choke. It is also called the half choke position. It is good, as Tommy says, for starting a warm saw. You use it to start a cold saw after it has popped over on full choke. You can usually use it to start a hot saw as well. If you throttle the saw from this position it will automatically pop into the run position.
The run position is the lever pressed one down from kill. This is where to put the lever when you start a saw that is warmed up. This is also where the lever will wind up if you press the throttle with the saw in either of the choke positions.
The kill position, or stop position is the lever all the way up. This shorts out the ignition and causes the saw to stop if it is running. It will also keep the saw from running, no matter how many times you pull the starter cord. I call this the 'dumb :censored:' position, as I have tried to start a saw more than once with the lever in this position.
One good thing about Stihls that I like is that every one of them (at least the newer ones) have the same thumb lever. Every one starts the same way. The 0xx models seem to start easier, and they will usually run from the full choke position long enough to pull the throttle without having to pull the starter again on fast idle.
Now for the underground guide to starting Stihl chainsaws (everyting that OSHA does not want you to know or do):
First is the chain brake. Lever forward, the chain brake engages. Lever back, and it releases. Several here have different methods. I used to start saws with the chain brake set, but I no longer do that. Reason being that when you start the saw at fast idle, it wants to run, rather than bog down with the chain brake set. Its hard on the clutch when the saw bogs down. The engine wants to run as well, and you want it to run in order to start and warm up. I use the brake when walking with the saw, handing the saw off, or setting it down. I also engage the brake when the bar is flying at my head in a kickback. Just be aware of proximity when starting your saws with the brake off. These are dangerous tools, if no one told you by now. If someone is close, or I am in brush, I will start the saw with the brake on. But that is an exception. I also prefer the mind set of thinking that the chain is free. When I used to start my saws with the brake on, and forgot to set the brake now and then, it was an unexpected surprise. You do not want surprises when starting saws. I also have saws that do not have chain brakes (ie., older Mac and Olympyk). So one standard method works better for me.
Second in this lesson is drop starting. The book explains for the fist 8,000 pages how to start a saw on the ground. This is great for making OSHA happy after years of law suits. However, many of us, myself included, believe that it is actually less safe and harder to start a saw on the ground. Chainsaws were originally (and still are, actually) designed to start in your hands, standing up. To do a proper drop start, you hold the top bar in your right hand and starter in the left. Hold the saw to the front/left side of your body. Then you pull up on the starter recoil with your left arm while lowering the saw with your right. This is actually easier on you and your saw, becasue you are standing in a balanced position, and no leaning down in an akward position with your foot in the handle of the saw. This starting position also makes it easy enough to start the saw without a decomp button. My 044 does not have a decomp, and I can start it without any real problems (even with a bum left arm that has tendonitis really bad). An alternative to the standard drop starting method is to hold the saw handle between your knees, and pull the starter with your left hand while holding the top handle in your right hand. I find this akward though, and prefer to let the saw swing free to my left.
So finally, to answer the question, why is there a decompression valve or button (commonly called 'the decomp' here)? Several reasons. One is that starting a saw on the ground is a lot harder and the recoil can snap your wrist good and hard in that position. Another is that some people are not as strong as others. Another is that it is easier on your arm and wrist to use it. The decomp is sort of a follow-on to the OSHA requirements for starting a saw on the ground. Anyway, using the decomp can lead to flooding when cold starting a 361, and so it is not advised to use it when they are cold. If you drop start your saws, it is not really as required, though I find it is easier on my saws and me to use them when hot starting my saws.
OK, OSHA can flame me now...
There are 4 right thumb lever positions on any Stihl saw.
Full choke on any Stihl is the lever pressed all the way down. That is also called the cold start position. It is for cold starting only, and only good until the saw rumbles over, pops, or fires. Any more tries to start in this position after that happens and it will just flood.
Fast Idle on any Stihl is the lever pressed one up from full choke. It is also called the half choke position. It is good, as Tommy says, for starting a warm saw. You use it to start a cold saw after it has popped over on full choke. You can usually use it to start a hot saw as well. If you throttle the saw from this position it will automatically pop into the run position.
The run position is the lever pressed one down from kill. This is where to put the lever when you start a saw that is warmed up. This is also where the lever will wind up if you press the throttle with the saw in either of the choke positions.
The kill position, or stop position is the lever all the way up. This shorts out the ignition and causes the saw to stop if it is running. It will also keep the saw from running, no matter how many times you pull the starter cord. I call this the 'dumb :censored:' position, as I have tried to start a saw more than once with the lever in this position.
One good thing about Stihls that I like is that every one of them (at least the newer ones) have the same thumb lever. Every one starts the same way. The 0xx models seem to start easier, and they will usually run from the full choke position long enough to pull the throttle without having to pull the starter again on fast idle.
Now for the underground guide to starting Stihl chainsaws (everyting that OSHA does not want you to know or do):
First is the chain brake. Lever forward, the chain brake engages. Lever back, and it releases. Several here have different methods. I used to start saws with the chain brake set, but I no longer do that. Reason being that when you start the saw at fast idle, it wants to run, rather than bog down with the chain brake set. Its hard on the clutch when the saw bogs down. The engine wants to run as well, and you want it to run in order to start and warm up. I use the brake when walking with the saw, handing the saw off, or setting it down. I also engage the brake when the bar is flying at my head in a kickback. Just be aware of proximity when starting your saws with the brake off. These are dangerous tools, if no one told you by now. If someone is close, or I am in brush, I will start the saw with the brake on. But that is an exception. I also prefer the mind set of thinking that the chain is free. When I used to start my saws with the brake on, and forgot to set the brake now and then, it was an unexpected surprise. You do not want surprises when starting saws. I also have saws that do not have chain brakes (ie., older Mac and Olympyk). So one standard method works better for me.
Second in this lesson is drop starting. The book explains for the fist 8,000 pages how to start a saw on the ground. This is great for making OSHA happy after years of law suits. However, many of us, myself included, believe that it is actually less safe and harder to start a saw on the ground. Chainsaws were originally (and still are, actually) designed to start in your hands, standing up. To do a proper drop start, you hold the top bar in your right hand and starter in the left. Hold the saw to the front/left side of your body. Then you pull up on the starter recoil with your left arm while lowering the saw with your right. This is actually easier on you and your saw, becasue you are standing in a balanced position, and no leaning down in an akward position with your foot in the handle of the saw. This starting position also makes it easy enough to start the saw without a decomp button. My 044 does not have a decomp, and I can start it without any real problems (even with a bum left arm that has tendonitis really bad). An alternative to the standard drop starting method is to hold the saw handle between your knees, and pull the starter with your left hand while holding the top handle in your right hand. I find this akward though, and prefer to let the saw swing free to my left.
So finally, to answer the question, why is there a decompression valve or button (commonly called 'the decomp' here)? Several reasons. One is that starting a saw on the ground is a lot harder and the recoil can snap your wrist good and hard in that position. Another is that some people are not as strong as others. Another is that it is easier on your arm and wrist to use it. The decomp is sort of a follow-on to the OSHA requirements for starting a saw on the ground. Anyway, using the decomp can lead to flooding when cold starting a 361, and so it is not advised to use it when they are cold. If you drop start your saws, it is not really as required, though I find it is easier on my saws and me to use them when hot starting my saws.
OK, OSHA can flame me now...
Last edited:
Your procedures mention TWO cranks...
Thall...,
Your instructions mention TWO crankings...in stemp #2 and #4. I did not realize this after you mentioned this and that may be my problem too besides the decomp probably not being needed.
I know I will get the hang of it...when I first get it running and a few times more under different scenarios. You covered am important step...after running the saw for a bit and stopping for some time...start with the least setting and move up choke-wise.
Of course I know the choke is not made to be used while running the saw. I swear I was able to run a old truck my Pop had a long time ago at full choke but had to close the choke after a few seconds. This was a long time ago and the memory escaped me so I am forgetful
By your handle...I believe I know who you are. Want proof? How does $589 sound
Thanks for your help!
Thall...,
Your instructions mention TWO crankings...in stemp #2 and #4. I did not realize this after you mentioned this and that may be my problem too besides the decomp probably not being needed.
I know I will get the hang of it...when I first get it running and a few times more under different scenarios. You covered am important step...after running the saw for a bit and stopping for some time...start with the least setting and move up choke-wise.
Of course I know the choke is not made to be used while running the saw. I swear I was able to run a old truck my Pop had a long time ago at full choke but had to close the choke after a few seconds. This was a long time ago and the memory escaped me so I am forgetful
By your handle...I believe I know who you are. Want proof? How does $589 sound
Thanks for your help!
Good Post Wind!
I start the saw with my left hand on the top handle so I don't have to juggle the saw after it is running.
Both of my Stihls (361 abd 460) start the same way regardless of temp. 5 pulls cold everytime. 2 on full choke (maybe 3) then 2-3 on 1/2 choke/fast idle for a total of 5.
I just cleaned up an old 026 for a guy and that thing will start on 2 pulls...3 tops!
I start the saw with my left hand on the top handle so I don't have to juggle the saw after it is running.
Both of my Stihls (361 abd 460) start the same way regardless of temp. 5 pulls cold everytime. 2 on full choke (maybe 3) then 2-3 on 1/2 choke/fast idle for a total of 5.
I just cleaned up an old 026 for a guy and that thing will start on 2 pulls...3 tops!
windthrown
361 Junkie
By your handle...I believe I know who you are. Want proof? How does $589 sound
Thanks for your help!
Another Elvis sighting?
Tommy, do the hair flip thing again...
litefoot
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thall...,
By your handle...I believe I know who you are. Want proof? How does $589 sound
Hmmmm....now I'm wondering just who or what dealer didn't show him how to start that saw....:hmm3grin2orange:
SawTroll
Information Collector
windthrown
361 Junkie
Oh no, now SawTroll has bugs in his sig line!
Smokerr
ArboristSite Operative
Read the manual for the flooded clearing procedure.
Sometimes a plug clean does it, but one I had it would no nothing, zip nada (just because it was -20 and froze up was no excuse).
So, I babied it, took it home, warmed it up overnight and nada. Over and over again. Finally read manual, did the drill nada.
Finally x 4, I read the manual CLOSELY and did it one step at a time, I had procedure wrong. Once I did follow it exactly was written, it ran immediately. All new to me as I have always been able to get two cycle stuff to start by cleaning plug, blowing out the chamber and away it went.
I don't have manual with me, but read it and try it.
Sometimes a plug clean does it, but one I had it would no nothing, zip nada (just because it was -20 and froze up was no excuse).
So, I babied it, took it home, warmed it up overnight and nada. Over and over again. Finally read manual, did the drill nada.
Finally x 4, I read the manual CLOSELY and did it one step at a time, I had procedure wrong. Once I did follow it exactly was written, it ran immediately. All new to me as I have always been able to get two cycle stuff to start by cleaning plug, blowing out the chamber and away it went.
I don't have manual with me, but read it and try it.
THALL10326
The Champ
Thall...,
Your instructions mention TWO crankings...in stemp #2 and #4. I did not realize this after you mentioned this and that may be my problem too besides the decomp probably not being needed.
I know I will get the hang of it...when I first get it running and a few times more under different scenarios. You covered am important step...after running the saw for a bit and stopping for some time...start with the least setting and move up choke-wise.
Of course I know the choke is not made to be used while running the saw. I swear I was able to run a old truck my Pop had a long time ago at full choke but had to close the choke after a few seconds. This was a long time ago and the memory escaped me so I am forgetful
By your handle...I believe I know who you are. Want proof? How does $589 sound
Thanks for your help!
Didn't I show you how to start that dayumm thing,LOLOLOLOL
SawTroll
Information Collector
SawTroll
Information Collector
I just borrowed them for a while - they will soon be gone (more on that in other threads).......
Last edited:
THALL10326
The Champ
Well I sold a 361 last week for 589.00. If Jim was that man he sure didn't tell me. I had no clue who he was. Had I known I would have sold it to him for 550.00, call it a AS perk. The man I was dealing with was deaf. Real nice guy but with the way I talk and as fast as I talk he may have had a tuff time reading my lips on the starting procedure but I did indeed point out how to fire that baby up.
If Jim was the man I will find him $39.00 more worth of discounts on chains or whatever he needs. He can also relax far as the saw goes, he's in good hands with HallState,haha
Wait a dayummm minute, my customer said he was deaf. That may explain the starting problem. If he can't hear it fire that makes starting more difficult for him, he has to feel it fire.
In that case, much as many disagree with it, drop starting may be the only way he will be able to realize the saw has fired. On the ground I'm not so sure he will be able to feel it fire, hmmmmmmmm. This is new terrority for me. We gotta come up with a way for him to know when it fires since he can't hear it, any ideas guys??
Last edited:
TravisL
ArboristSite Member
throttle trigger
I just posted a thread about the same topic with my new 361, but I think your main problem is "clicking" the throttle to change the choke position. If you move the choke manually, it will leave the throttle engaged, thats what I do and it starts 100% of the time (now). Just be careful not to flood it.
I just posted a thread about the same topic with my new 361, but I think your main problem is "clicking" the throttle to change the choke position. If you move the choke manually, it will leave the throttle engaged, thats what I do and it starts 100% of the time (now). Just be careful not to flood it.
