Stihl 009 air leak, cant stop it.

[bullseye13]

So i am helping a friend of the family with his 009. Cleaned the carb and got it going, ran like it had a bad air leak. It sure does, at the bottom of the carb between it and the reed block. I installed a new gasket, still leaks bad. Tried two gaskets, no help. I also flat sanded the top of the reed block which was slightly off but it did not help like i hoped. If i throw the money into this on another reed block will this fix it or am i missing something else???

I really want to just get it off the workbench at this point, wayyy too much time in it.

 

[ttyR2]

Unless the part is cracked, a straightedge and feeler gauge should be able to help you figure out exactly where the leak is coming from if it's from a bad flange surface.

 

[Saw Dr.]

How did you determine that you are leaking at the reed block? I have an 009 with bad crank seals in my shop right now. I have seen those phenolic blocks crack also.

 

[epicklein22]

I should have some parts if ya need them. Something must be cracked or misaligned if still leaking with new gaskets.

 

[bullseye13]

It leaks on the front side of the saw between the carb and reed block. Like i said i flat sanded the top of the reed block and added a new gasket. Still leaks there and i spray WD when im pressure testing and theats where it blows BIG bubbles. I cannot imagine what could be off from here.

 

[Mastermind]

It leaks on the front side of the saw between the carb and reed block. Like i said i flat sanded the top of the reed block and added a new gasket. Still leaks there and i spray WD when im pressure testing and theats where it blows BIG bubbles. I cannot imagine what could be off from here.

What about the gasket under the reed block?

 

[bullseye13]

What about the gasket under the reed block?

That gasket is fine, the reed block has a raised area that presses into theat gasket as well, that area is not the problem.

 

[tmessenger]

I have a 010 on my bench right now, same problem the reed block is warped. I used 80g sticky sand paper stuck to a piece of grant counter top to get it back level on the top side (I checked with a machinist square) and on the bottom side I tweaked the reed mount to get the reed to seat and yamabonded the block back in. Haven't started it yet to see if it fixed the idle problem. Crank seals are OK.

 

[tmessenger]

I took a couple of my parts saws apart today and had a look at the reed blocks. The early saws had a reed block held down only by the two carb mount screws and use the WA series carbs. Both of them had warped reed blocks, the later version saw I check has two screws + the 2 carb mount screws holding down the reed block and it was not warped this saw uses the WT series carb. Bottom line is this was a problem with the early saws and Stihl fixed it on the later ones. I'm going to see tomorrow if it's possible to use the late style reed block on the early saw.

tm

 

[Mastermind]

I took a couple of my parts saws apart today and had a look at the reed blocks. The early saws had a reed block held down only by the two carb mount screws and use the WA series carbs. Both of them had warped reed blocks, the later version saw I check has two screws + the 2 carb mount screws holding down the reed block and it was not warped this saw uses the WT series carb. Bottom line is this was a problem with the early saws and Stihl fixed it on the latter ones. I'm going to see tomorrow if it's possible to use the late style reed block on the early saw.

tm

That's good stuff to know Tim. Thanks and keep us informed on what you find.

 

[tmessenger]

That's good stuff to know Tim. Thanks and keep us informed on what you find.

No luck the reed block is thicker and the mounts do not line up so if you are buying one of these saws get a later style. Photo; the new style is on the left note the 2 steel pins running through the block to strengthen it and the 2 extra mounting holes.

 

[Mastermind]

No luck the reed block is thicker and the mounts do not line up so if you are buying one of these saws get a later style. Photo; the new style is on the left note the 2 steel pins running through the block to strengthen it and the 2 extra mounting holes.

I've got a rear handled 011 av on my bench right now with a scored jug and slug. Now I'm wondering if the reed block could be the culprit? I'll try to get a look at it tomorrow if I have time, it's the orange and black style. We are doing some remodeling on the shop, that's top priority right now.

 

[tmessenger]

I've got a rear handled 011 av on my bench right now with a scored jug and slug. Now I'm wondering if the reed block could be the culprit? I'll try to get a look at it tomorrow if I have time, it's the orange and black style. We are doing some remodeling on the shop, that's top priority right now.

I have the same issue with an 010 orange and black one except it's all good with good compression. But I'm finding no love trying to get the carb sealed against the reed block. The reed block is easy to seal against the case but putting goop on the carb side could foul the impulse hole. I got desperate and did goop it and am waiting for it to dry before I pronounce final judgment. If this doesn't do it it's going to ebay for parts, enough is enough!

I'll let you know if it works.

tm

 

[Mastermind]

I have the same issue with an orange and black one except it's all good with good compression. But I'm finding no love trying to get the carb sealed against the reed block. The reed block is easy to seal against the case but putting goop on the carb side could foul the impulse hole. I got desperate and did goop it and am waiting for it to dry before I pronounce final judgment. If this doesn't do it it's going to ebay for parts, enough is enough!

I'll let you know if it works.

tm

I wonder if a plate could be made from a piece of aluminum or something, then stacked on to stiffen the original?

 

[tmessenger]

I wonder if a plate could be made from a piece of aluminum or something, then stacked on to stiffen the original?

You can't raise the carb any amount or it won't fit under the cover it's an exact fit with no extra room. If you add a plate you need to remove material from the block. It looks like on my block the carb was sealing around the impulse port and not sealing on the other end, the other end in more in the center of the block so in an area where the bow is the worst. I just sealed this area so I did not plug up the impulse port, we'll see if it works.

 

[Mastermind]

You can't raise the carb any amount or it won't fit under the cover it's an exact fit with no extra room. If you add a plate you need to remove material from the block. It looks like on my block the carb was sealing around the impulse port and not sealing on the other end, the other end in more in the center of the block so in an area where the bow is the worst. I just sealed this area so I did not plug up the impulse port, we'll see if it works.

Yep, you are right, the air box won't allow any height increases. I speak before I think all to often. :hmm3grin2orange:

Good luck with it. I'm set on peeking at the one I have tomorrow. Now I'm really wondering about it.

 

[bullseye13]

You can't raise the carb any amount or it won't fit under the cover it's an exact fit with no extra room. If you add a plate you need to remove material from the block. It looks like on my block the carb was sealing around the impulse port and not sealing on the other end, the other end in more in the center of the block so in an area where the bow is the worst. I just sealed this area so I did not plug up the impulse port, we'll see if it works.

I kept looking over at my tube od Dirko....but im screwed. My leak is on the side with the impulse port. Thanks for all the good advise. Could it be possible that the bolts are not drilled and tapped perfectly perpendicular to the saw and it pulls the saw down harder on one side?