Stihl 009 help!

[rallen]

I acquired a Stihl 009 that sat for several years with old gas. Prior to opening it up, I got it started and it ran for half-a-minute, before dying. Now, after doing the following, I can get it to start but then it immediately dies.

OK so...repairs done so far:

1. Replaced fuel and vent lines, and fuel filter. BOTH lines were rotten, and probably why the saw stopped the first time. Fuel filter I put on looks a little oversized, but I would think it would not matter.
2. Removed Zama carb and cleaned it out but did not have a carb kit (yet). Removed hi/lo adjustment screws and cleaned with carb cleaner. Removed diaphragm plate and sprayed carb cleaner into strainer but did not remove. Reassembled carb. Opened hi/lo screws one full turn each.
3. Removed reed block and cleaned it out.
4. Reinstalled carb.
5. Clipped off end of spark plug lead and re-installed the spark plug spring and boot.

Now...

1. Starts up on full choke easily, revs up to speed and then dies like out of gas.
2. Won't start again immediately, but if I let it sit for a minute or so, then will start and again act like out of gas. Sometimes I can get it to run a little longer if I give it more choke.

I double-checked the new fuel line, and it is not kinked or pinched. Same with the vent line. Just to make sure, I cracked open the fuel cap to see if it was a vent problem and it made no difference.

Do I have an air leak somewhere? I tightened all the screws pretty well, but since I did remove the carb and the reed block do I need to put sealant and/or replace those gaskets? Is this a sign that the fuel pump isn't working and that a carb kit is the next thing to do? I read other 009 posts about a warped reed block, but I have the model that has the reed block held by two screws recessed into the phenolic block on opposite corners, and then the two carb screws at the other two corners snugging it down so I don't think warpage is the problem. I don't have a vacuum tester or means to test for leaks so it is trial and error for me.

What puzzles me is why it worked before I dissassembled, and now it doesn't. On the other hand, considering that the fuel lines fell apart when touched and/or when I first started it up, perhaps the carb diaphragm has the same issue and needs replacement.

Suggestions? When it did start up, it started right away, and sounded great, for the 30 seconds it ran. Seems to be plenty of compression.


PERPLEXED...(a little knowledge is a dangerous thing!).

Robert

 

[rallen]

I think I solved the problem!

Note to self: carburetors have TWO sides to clean out, not just one!

After doing some research on line I was pretty well convinced it was a problem in the carburetor, so I took it off again and looked at it one more time, realizing that besides the screws on one side, there is a single screw on the other that holds the fuel pump diaphragm. And sure enough, once I took it off, I could see the crud (gas shellac) accumulated in a nice even mound which probably served quite nicely as a dam to keep the gas from getting into the carb. I cleaned it out, put it back together, and was called to dinner (!) just as I was going to start it. So tomorrow will be the test.

If it still doesn't run properly I will buy that carb kit, or perhaps buy it anyways, just to finish the maintenance items on the machine. Now all I have to do is figure out when it is properly tuned!

Robert

 

[sefh3]

I would get a kit a put it in. Those diaphrams become stiff over time and need to be replaced. They are good insurance and are not the expensive.

 

[rallen]

Closer, but no cigar....

So now it runs 20 seconds if choked...maybe 30.

I will order the carb kit, but after doing more reading my suspicion is that I STILL don't have the carb completely cleaned out, and that the culprit may be the little straining screen opposite the needle valve. I sprayed carb cleaner on it and thought it was clear, but something is keeping it from getting enough gas to stay running.

I may take it apart yet again to focus on just this strainer, and in the meantime, order the carb kit as I should have when I first got it.

Oh...anyone got any suggestions for a substitution for the little sponge that USED to be on the end of the vent line? When I replaced my vent line, it mostly disintegrated. I have an old kohler pre-filter air filter sponge/band, and am thinking that I could ziptie a bundle of it to the end and put the cover back on. Any other suggestions?

Robert

 

[ncfarmboy]

I cut a section out of a triple foam filter I had approx. 1" x 1" square split it 3/4 thru then zipped it on the line worked great. Shep

 

[DG2244]

If you think your starving for fuel open up the "H" screw. The 1 turn out is just a general set point. Back it out a little at a time until you can keep it running. Once you get it warmed up a little and fresh fuel through the system, then you will be able to dial it in.

 

[rallen]

ordered carb kit...diaphragm swollen?

I took it apart yet again and made sure that everything was blown out and clean. No restrictions in the screen and passages that I can see, and I blew air through every opening.

The needle diaphragm does look a little wrinkled...perhaps it is the cause of the problem. I didn't see any holes in it when I held it up to the light. I ordered the kit and will swap out all the parts and try again.

I will play with the adjusting screw more but I would think it would not need to be opened more than 1 1/2 turns to run, and I have had no luck so far. Definitely fresh gas in it now.

I acquired this saw figuring it might take a little tinkering, and I see I am not disappointed! Once I get it running, I will wonder why I didn't do everything right the first time, but for now I will keep plugging away at trial and error, and hopefully be rewarded with a nice little saw.

I saw on ebay I could buy a new carb for it for about $50, but I am not ready to throw in the towel yet. I paid $40 for the saw; have $10 spent now on the carb kit; a few bucks for fuel hose and vent. Out of curiosity, I see they also sell walbro carbs for this model, a little cheaper. Are the Zama and Walbro interchangeable?

Thanks for the advice.

Robert

 

[8433jeff]

Yes they are. Zamas have been better more me in the 011's, but its almost the same saw. If the metering diaphragm was wrinkled, it wasn't going to work. Any foam on the end of the vent line should work. Carb cleaner and needles don't go well together. The ends can swell and fall apart.

 

[rallen]

Success!

I received the carb kit today and installed the parts, all except I did not use the replacement "plug" that I assume covers the jet if one takes it out.

Took it outside, and after getting it to prime got it to start right up on 1 full turn out of the hi-speed needle. Now I need to read up / look at clips as to how to tune it properly.

Would have saved myself alot of frustration if I had just ordered the kit to begin with and installed it. Looking at the replacement parts, the old diaphragm most definitely had wrinkles in it that were probably causing the fuel pump to malfunction.

So next....besides tuning it, I want to look at the oiler to see if it is functioning.

Robert

 

[glennschumann]

If the oiler isn't putting out enough oil, you don't need to replace the entire pump... there is a diaphragm with a needle like pin on it that cost about $5, I think, and that brought my 009 back to working. Tough little saw, but the vibrations caused my left hand to get numb after a day of cutting. I recommend anti vibration gloves if you get the same sensation... it can end up being permanant if you are not careful.

 

[rallen]

Thanks for the advice. I haven't tried the oiler out yet but if it is not working will probably try the rinse-tank-with- fuel-mix technique first and then dissassemble if necessary.

I bought the saw for both limbing and for my wife to use when a tree falls across drive while I am out of town (happened twice this winter). I have an 029 that I use for bucking / firewood. Looking forward to trying it out.

 

[JustinM]

The bad thing about those old saws is that they have often sat for so long that anything short of a complete tear down may not solve the problem.

The good thing is that they were built like tanks & after a complete tear down (and replacement of some rubber/gaskets/lines etc) will most likely be good as new again!

Good luck!

 

[rallen]

replaced oiler diaphragm

Just a follow-up to this post for future viewers:

I dissassembled the oil pump and sure enough the plunger diaphragm had completely deteriorated to the point it was just translucent fabric (all the rubber had worn off). You have to be very careful peeling the old diaphragm off the gasket underneath it since at first it looks like one piece. Once removed, I replaced it with my $9 diaphragm and plunger assembly from the Stihl dealer, and now it pumps like crazy.

Last thing: found out I had a problem with it not choking properly. See my post about 009 hard starting when cold for more details.

Robert

 

[Dale]

Warrenton..... off topic, but my buddy is an assistant girls softball coach at Warrenton H.S.

So, does it run now ?

 

[rallen]

Warrenton..... off topic, but my buddy is an assistant girls softball coach at Warrenton H.S.

So, does it run now ?

Small world!

Yes...runs great. I THINK I solved the hard starting issue now but still can't believe it was so simple, so will check it again today (choke shutter is culprit).

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Robert