rallen
ArboristSite Operative
It has not been a good month for me and my chainsaws. Besides the problem described below with my 009L, my 026 clutch self destructed, and the recoil on my 012AV that I picked up as a back-up for my little 009L turns out to be throwing the starter pawl intermittantly. They say trouble comes in three's....
The 009L is an interesting story, at least to me. This is the second Stihl saw that I acquired, and it had sat a LONG time with fuel in it when I acquired it for $40. I replaced oil and gas lines and filter, oil pump, re-built the carb, and replaced the choke cover and air filter (see earlier posts about hard starting...still can be difficult because of the less than perfect seal provided by the plastic choke shutter sliding against the air filter nylon ring at the carb intake). The 009L is a top-handle saw with a 12" bar, and it has been very useful for miscellaneous trimming and limbing. The saw has lots of torque, sounds like a little beast, and with the short bar is easy to handle, so having it out of commission is definitely noticeable.
The 009L always left an oily mess when I left it sitting, and I always assumed that it was the notorious unmetered diaphragm oil pump that delivered lubrication whether the chain was moving or not. However, when I went to use it two times ago, I opened the oil tank and smelled mix, and sure enough, the oil was diluted with gas. I figured I must have been half asleep and somehow put fuel mix in the wrong tank (!!); I dumped out the contaminated bar oil, and re-filled the reservoir with new bar oil. But this last time, when I went to use it, I opened the tank to again find fuel in the oil, except this time even more apparent. I must have a leak in the gasket that joins the crankcase together and separates the oil and fuel tanks. If there is a leak there, perhaps there are others that contribute to the oil that soaks the paper towel I leave under it when stored.
I bought a complete gasket kit from Stihl, and since I have to tear it down anyways, I will inspect the cylinder and at least replace the piston ring(s?), as well as the oil seals, while I am at it. I have the repair manual courtesy of one of our fellow members, and have read through the procedure, and it sounds pretty straight forward, but wondered if anyone had any special advice.
Is the case difficult to separate? Is it difficult to re-assemble? The 009 is similar to the 026 and other models that have a one-piece cylinder jug separate from the crankcase assembly, as opposed to the clamshell style of the 029. Anything to look out for, other than to use nylon ties or some other method to keep the needle bearings from coming out unintentionally?
I also ordered a new recoil pulley (have to buy a starter kit from Stihl, that includes the pulley, rope and handle), for the 012AV. I figured that I can put the 12" bar on the 012 while I find time to fix the 009L, and while the 012AV is not a top handle, it is otherwise almost the same saw and with the short bar will get me buy. Between the 026, 009L, and 012 all having issues, perhaps I am done with my string of bad luck and now will have clear sailing. Putting things in perspective, I should note that the saws range in age from 12+ years old (026?) to 30+ years old (009L?). They are great machines, but understandably require maintenance to remedy the sins of the past.
Robert
The 009L is an interesting story, at least to me. This is the second Stihl saw that I acquired, and it had sat a LONG time with fuel in it when I acquired it for $40. I replaced oil and gas lines and filter, oil pump, re-built the carb, and replaced the choke cover and air filter (see earlier posts about hard starting...still can be difficult because of the less than perfect seal provided by the plastic choke shutter sliding against the air filter nylon ring at the carb intake). The 009L is a top-handle saw with a 12" bar, and it has been very useful for miscellaneous trimming and limbing. The saw has lots of torque, sounds like a little beast, and with the short bar is easy to handle, so having it out of commission is definitely noticeable.
The 009L always left an oily mess when I left it sitting, and I always assumed that it was the notorious unmetered diaphragm oil pump that delivered lubrication whether the chain was moving or not. However, when I went to use it two times ago, I opened the oil tank and smelled mix, and sure enough, the oil was diluted with gas. I figured I must have been half asleep and somehow put fuel mix in the wrong tank (!!); I dumped out the contaminated bar oil, and re-filled the reservoir with new bar oil. But this last time, when I went to use it, I opened the tank to again find fuel in the oil, except this time even more apparent. I must have a leak in the gasket that joins the crankcase together and separates the oil and fuel tanks. If there is a leak there, perhaps there are others that contribute to the oil that soaks the paper towel I leave under it when stored.
I bought a complete gasket kit from Stihl, and since I have to tear it down anyways, I will inspect the cylinder and at least replace the piston ring(s?), as well as the oil seals, while I am at it. I have the repair manual courtesy of one of our fellow members, and have read through the procedure, and it sounds pretty straight forward, but wondered if anyone had any special advice.
Is the case difficult to separate? Is it difficult to re-assemble? The 009 is similar to the 026 and other models that have a one-piece cylinder jug separate from the crankcase assembly, as opposed to the clamshell style of the 029. Anything to look out for, other than to use nylon ties or some other method to keep the needle bearings from coming out unintentionally?
I also ordered a new recoil pulley (have to buy a starter kit from Stihl, that includes the pulley, rope and handle), for the 012AV. I figured that I can put the 12" bar on the 012 while I find time to fix the 009L, and while the 012AV is not a top handle, it is otherwise almost the same saw and with the short bar will get me buy. Between the 026, 009L, and 012 all having issues, perhaps I am done with my string of bad luck and now will have clear sailing. Putting things in perspective, I should note that the saws range in age from 12+ years old (026?) to 30+ years old (009L?). They are great machines, but understandably require maintenance to remedy the sins of the past.
Robert
