Stihl 015L
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Results 1 - 48 of 233 - Stihl Chain Saw 015 015AVE Walbro HDC17 Carburetor K10-HDC Carb Repair kit New. $18.95. Type: Carburetor. FAST 'N FREE.
I may have to look into this. My 015L does not run quite like it should. I think it's the carb, but I have been told that replacing it is anything but easy. A classic little saw it is but...
1hander
ArboristSite Operative
only thing that can really go wrong with it is the checkvalve goes bad and...and rebuild parts
other than that the only adjustment you need to make
i love these little saws, i have 2, just finished restoring 1, other is waiting for me to finish the 08's
1. the metering lever height
2. adjust H and L needles
3. adjust idle screw
4. adjust metering lever spring pressure
5. replace checkvalve
6. leaking welch plug
whats wrong with it , the carbs are getting hard to find though , but they come up on ebay
other than that the only adjustment you need to make
i love these little saws, i have 2, just finished restoring 1, other is waiting for me to finish the 08's
1. the metering lever height
2. adjust H and L needles
3. adjust idle screw
4. adjust metering lever spring pressure
5. replace checkvalve
6. leaking welch plug
whats wrong with it , the carbs are getting hard to find though , but they come up on ebay
BlackCoffin
ArboristSite Operative
Are parts still available for the carbs?
1hander
ArboristSite Operative
one can still find rebuid kits.. actual parts some are available on ebay, others from walbro, but they are getting scarce
best thing to do is buy a used carb and keep it for parts or a spare..
one that isnt available any more is the metering lever....since i have two 015s i snatched up w meterings levers when they came up and i bough 3 checkvalves and 3 metering springs
the checkvalves i keep in vacuum sealed bags to protect them..
best thing to do is buy a used carb and keep it for parts or a spare..
one that isnt available any more is the metering lever....since i have two 015s i snatched up w meterings levers when they came up and i bough 3 checkvalves and 3 metering springs
the checkvalves i keep in vacuum sealed bags to protect them..
Ordered some parts from you last week for a echo hedger, was hoping to find a aftermarket carb that would work on the Stihl 015L.
Got it from a guy next door, said it has set in his barn for 10yrs. Ran before that. I have not messed with it yet.
Update, stated working on the 015L, put some gas/oil in cylinder to lube, put gas in, fired off 2nd pull. Then died and would not start. The gas/oil tank is leaking gas out the bottom. The bolts that hold the gas/oil tank will not come loose. I even tried a impact driver. I have a carb rebuild kit coming.
Any way of getting the bolts out of the gas/oil tank?
Any way of getting the bolts out of the gas/oil tank?
1hander
ArboristSite Operative
Those screws hold the crankcase halves together.. Your getting in another canoworms.. They are very long screws and they twist when you are trying to loosen them.. I had to get my son to use a screwdriver with visegrips clamped onto them... The key is You gotta put all your weight down on them and twist till you just about piss yourself..then once the head starts to turn you gotta keep turning . It might help to hold a screwdriver on top of them and hit them with a hammer to loosen them..but I doubt it... . your basically lookin at almost a complete teardown.. Do you know if the crank seals are good... If they are not you may as well do those too...and you'll need some yamabond or honda bond to reseal the crank halves..
If you do decide to take it apart be careful with the connecting rod and big end bearings.. Those little suckers just fall out lol.. But when you remove those screws most times you will loose the seal on the crankcase
If you do decide to take it apart be careful with the connecting rod and big end bearings.. Those little suckers just fall out lol.. But when you remove those screws most times you will loose the seal on the crankcase
1hander
ArboristSite Operative
It's worth a shot... Make sure that the oiler is working.. When I did my 015 the oil pickup and crossover tube just crumbled.... Im not sure if a tank sealant would clog anything important like the fuel and oil pickup.. You can remove the fuel pickup but not the oil ones... Sometimes if you really careful and don't jar the assembly you can remove the screws.. Get the gasket material off and reaaemble without disturbing the crank seal
1hander
ArboristSite Operative
i think its worth a try, dont forget to pull the fuel pickup and felt , sometimes the felt falls out of the rubber housing, if the fuel tank side of the fuel pickup line has a square shape to it, then the felt is either in the tank and fell out or its missing.the felt is about 2 or so inches long rectangular
2nd update, I got the 6 bolts out of the gas/oil tank after getting crazy with the impact driver.
Waitng on gasket from ebay. Everything else looks good inside tank. Making my own fuel line/filter, i haven't had any luck with rubber for china.
Waitng on gasket from ebay. Everything else looks good inside tank. Making my own fuel line/filter, i haven't had any luck with rubber for china.
1hander
ArboristSite Operative
2nd update, I got the 6 bolts out of the gas/oil tank after getting crazy with the impact driver.
Nice... And oh yes I tried those crappy fuel lines too.. Best thing. To do is do a search on ebay.. For stihl 015 fuel and there quite a few sellers parting out old 015s selling really good parts.. Did the cylinder come away from the crankcase half.. Or did you get lucky and it stayed together
1hander
ArboristSite Operative
Nice... Treat it like a baby lol... And hope the seal is intact when you put it back together lok
What out the cranks seals.. What kind of condition are they in..
If they are even questionable you should consider replacing them.. Try to poke at he rubber gently... Nothing sharp... If they are still soft you might be OK..
But it's not much more of a big deal... There's a way to keep the piston crank and bearings to stay in the bearing cradles with the cylinder half and not worry about bearings coming out of the rod big end
If you go that route post and I'll put up my experience with mine..
Also if you don't want to mess with those screws you could replace them Allen head partial thread bolts they are M5x.8x95mm
What out the cranks seals.. What kind of condition are they in..
If they are even questionable you should consider replacing them.. Try to poke at he rubber gently... Nothing sharp... If they are still soft you might be OK..
But it's not much more of a big deal... There's a way to keep the piston crank and bearings to stay in the bearing cradles with the cylinder half and not worry about bearings coming out of the rod big end
If you go that route post and I'll put up my experience with mine..
Also if you don't want to mess with those screws you could replace them Allen head partial thread bolts they are M5x.8x95mm
