2tone
ArboristSite Member
There is a gasket.
I continued the tear down as I need to get the broken part of the piston out of the crankcase. The connecting rod bearing on the cranshaft looks really loose. I will post a photo a little later.You need to ask or check this:
Not sure about yours but some of the Stihls also used crankshaft bearings that had plastic bearing spacers in the bearing to keep the bearing spaced correctly and evenly around the race. Replace those type bearings with the type that have the steel spacers. When the plastic gets brittle it will break into small pieces and the rollers will slide instead of roll in the race. Saw will have strange noises and be little harder to hand crank intermittently when it first starts acting up.
Plus one on no China Junk!The crank main bearing spacing is normal. You shouldn’t have any up and down play on the rod, some side to side wobble is normal, but zero movemet up an down if you pull on the rod.
Jug might clean up, but you need to know what you are doing. Any proud areas of plating need to be sanded down. It’s been said that “nothing below the exhaust port roof matters” when it comes to jug salvage. Your areas above the ex roof do look fixable.
IMHO, that saw needs a full tear down, crank needs to go in a USC to vibrate any metal particles out of the main bearing, and it needs new bearings. Obviously a new piston and rings. Jug may clean up, but you could likely find a good used oem jug and slug on the TP here for under $100.
Stay away from any China junk for the rebuild.
Rebuilding these saws gets pricey. You may wanna just sell it on the TP here as is, agree that it’s done it’s job for you, and buy a new or used 261 Stihl here.
slow is OK rush is worse.Thanks for the feedback. I start the midnight shift tonight. So progress will be slow.
Try to figure if it is an even looking strike on top or a random piece junk hit it.No up and down play on the rod bearings. Checked piston and crank Looking at cylinder and top of piston.
It is NOT the piston bearing... It is the main crank bearings. You may or may not be able to see them from inside the crankcase with a small inspection mirror.Okie: The piston pin caged roller bearing has a steel cage.
I plan to do a full tear down.It is NOT the piston bearing... It is the main crank bearings. You may or may not be able to see them from inside the crankcase with a small inspection mirror.
So what would cause this kind of intake skirt wear? Fines getting through the air filter? Could be possible with the older style fleece filters. Cutting in wet/cold/snow conditions where ingesting water will wash the oil off of the cylinder? Any other possibilities?Looking at the saw now, I think the piston plainly worn out. The intake skirt is the thrust area, that’s where they thin.
When the severely thin, the skirt to bore clearance becomes excessive and the pistons start to rock. Then the crown can rock into the band, and the bottom of the skirt can catch itself on the intake floor. Kinda looks like what happened to your saw. I had one in similar shape a few years back.
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