Stihl 026 pro carb adjustment?

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merc_man

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first time trying the 026 today. Saw fired up perfect let it warm up for few min or so then eased on throttle and dies. Few times of that and put it away. Get home and figured id tinker with it. Fire it let warm up and runs mint WTF. may have to clean carb put new kit if i do. Any how thought it was a little lean. Never heard any fourstokng wot so put tach on to check and its reving 14300 way too high. The side of saw where you adjust carb has idle screw and above three wndows H nothing and L the middle window with nothing has the adjust screw and seems to be the low. Should ther be a high screw too. I thought ther should be.


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That is a later model 026 with the fixed high speed jet. can not adjust. The one you see is the low speed adjustment. Idle adjust is the big one. I must have a slight air leak or carb is dirty to be running lean. It is best to swap to fully adjustable carb.
 
14300 isn't that high, at least as it pertains to a muffler modded 026.
Shes not muf modded but it is wide open nothing in ther. And i little hole for it all to come out. Was gonna open it up but if cant retune kind of scarred to. Dont really wanna buy a new carb like mentioned above but dont mind cleaning and putting a kit in.

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Shes not muf modded but it is wide open nothing in ther. And i little hole for it all to come out. Was gonna open it up but if cant retune kind of scarred to. Dont really wanna buy a new carb like mentioned above but dont mind cleaning and putting a kit in.

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Do yourself a favour and buy a new carb. That saw is a complete dog without a muffler mod and as you noted you won't get away with a muffler mod with a non adjustable hi side carb.
 
Who knows mabe will have to gwt new carb if its recomended. Dont wanna ruin the top end if cant get rpms down a bit.

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Btw I have a hi/lo carb for an 026 for sale in the classifieds.
Just looked. Never seen it what ya asking and what would shipping be to southern ontario

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I paid I think $40 for a new walbro off ebay. IT is money well spent going to the adjustable carb ether buying his^ or another one.
 
If that carb is a Wt-403 it is better to get rid of it. It has idle and positional issues which lead to stalling at idle. However, the noted lean running condition MUST be properly diagnosed and FIXED before embarking on any modifications. That saw should run properly at WOT with that carb. Check the "L" carb needle and make sure it is at the proper opening. If the saw still revs too high you most likely have an air leak. This also would explain the stalling and lean off idle performance.

For alternative carbs you have:

WT-426 - H, L adjustable within limited range but easier to adjust
WT-194 - Fully adjustable but the adjustments get touchy. You'll also need to replace the compensating "snorkel from the top of your old carb.

Good luck,

Steve
 
make sure to plug the hole that runs to the
snorkle on your air filter if it came off the compensating carb
Better just put the snorkel from the old carb on the new one (wt-194). No air filter plugs required this way. The Wt-426 comes with the snorkel already on it.
 
If i switch carbs can i use same air filter.

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What is the normal max rpm. I figured about 13500 but googled it a seen 14000.

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Better just put the snorkel from the old carb on the new one (wt-194). No air filter plugs required this way. The Wt-426 comes with the snorkel already on it.
+1 for me. I love the WT-194. I prefer it above all the other options. I have handled hundreds of these saws and the 194 is my go-to carb option.
 
What is the normal max rpm. I figured about 13500 but googled it a seen 14000.
Please keep in mind that Stihl's max RPM ratings are taken under worst case operating conditions. The leanest mixture occurs at sea level under the coldest specified operating conditions. If you are hitting or exceeding the max RPMs under other conditions you have a problem that needs fixed... and it likely isn't the existing carburetor.

A new adjustable carb will probably "hide" the existing air leak... for a while. The air leak will eventually roach the saw when it suddenly increases and the saw "leans" out. Undetected and unrepaired air leaks are the BEST way to kill a saw! Check any thread in AS that mentions Piston and Cylinder and you'll see what I mean!
 

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