Stihl 026 soaking airfilter.

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doc874

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026 soaking the airfilter. Rebuilt the carb and tried another carb still no luck.
Saw will start but not idle well, tried adjusting H & l srews the L has to be turned almost two turns from lightly seated to get the saw to run. Possible air leak at seals?? All hoses in good shape and conected.
 
My 032 was filling the air filter with fuel mix after I had the local Stihl dealer clean(ultrasonic cleaner) and rebuild the carb. I took it apart and found that they did not set the inlet needle lever to the correct height. :censored:
So I did it myself and solved the problem. (If you want something done right, do it yourself.) :clap:

Also I have read on here that a worn piston skirt will cause fuel to be spit back into the air filter.

inletlever.JPG
 
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How's your piston skirt? Sloppy piston skirt (can have good compression) will allow more and more blowback as it wears.
 
How's your piston skirt? Sloppy piston skirt (can have good compression) will allow more and more blowback as it wears.

Andy. The piston is brand new, the cylinder is a used one i just bought from someone. I purchased the piston and cylinder from the same place. The saw is blowing alot of mix out of the muffler as well. If its likely the cylinder i will contact the seller, they are very honourable.
 
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My 032 was filling the air filter with fuel mix after I had the local Stihl dealer clean(ultrasonic cleaner) and rebuild the carb. I took it apart and found that they did not set the inlet needle lever to the correct height. :censored:
So I did it myself and solved the problem. (Want something done right? Do it yourself) :clap:

Also I have read on here that a worn piston skirt will cause fuel to be spit back into the air filter.

inletlever.JPG


Thanks for the tip. The lever on mine are level with the carb floor or as per diagram. Thanks.
 
What Grande says. and check you didn't slip your exhaust gasket so it's such across the exhaust outlet.

Pressure test your carb - make sure it's not dumping gas though because of a bad inlet valve.

Unless you can see a big scour under the inlet port, it's not the cylinder...
 
What Grande says. and check you didn't slip your exhaust gasket so it's such across the exhaust outlet.

Pressure test your carb - make sure it's not dumping gas though because of a bad inlet valve.

Unless you can see a big scour under the inlet port, it's not the cylinder...


Ok checked the spark arrester and there isn't one at all. The muffler gasket is seated the way it should. I'm now guessing that its gotta be the carbs. I have two carbs and tried both i haven't pressure tested them yet. What else could it be??
 
One problem with GOLF is QA.. many are fine and a few are not... Hopefully the inlet side skirt hasn't fallen off (just kidding).

if you get to the point you can't find anythng else wrong, measure the pistion<> cylinder clearance with a feeler.
 
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One problem oith GOl is QA.. many are fine and a few are not... Hopefully the inlet side skirt hasn't fallen off (just kidding).

if you get to the point you can't find anythng else wrong, measure the pistion<> cylinder clearance with a feeler.


Lol, good one Andy. Enjoy that turkey, "TURKEY", Lol. Well i figure to lessen headaches i've asked the seller if i can return this cylinder and piston to opt for a brand new setup i just don't need the trouble right now of trying to figure this thing out. It may be the piston or the cylinder but either way i guess the easiest solution is go new. Thanks for the Help gang and happy thanks giving to you in the good ol "US OF A".
 
Yup, I put a few cheesy pistons in saws, then Andy chewed me out and sent me to my room. I now regularly look for deals on OEM pistons on Fleabay (they roll around quite often) for future rebuilds. I recently got a nice OEM 026 piston for 23 bones. Funny thing is, I don't even own an 026. No one has ever accused me of not thinking ahead!
 
i have run across a few with bad seats had to change the
carb out for another because i cant remember where my
coining tool is at:dizzy:
 
Yup, I put a few cheesy pistons in saws, then Andy chewed me out and sent me to my room. I now regularly look for deals on OEM pistons on Fleabay (they roll around quite often) for future rebuilds. I recently got a nice OEM 026 piston for 23 bones. Funny thing is, I don't even own an 026. No one has ever accused me of not thinking ahead!


Then you need to release that OEM 026 piston to me, i'd hate to see it collect dust ya know.
 
Update on the 026. I changed the oil seals and all seems good, no flooding etc... Still not sure how the oil seals can cause this, but then again, i'm new to this saw rebuilding thing and trial and error are my best friends in this. Thanks to all who either had a suggestion or comment.

Doc
 
If you had a bad seal then you probaly increased the L mixture to compensate.. and that will contribuate to your problem.

If the L setting on a good carb is say 1.5 turns.. aways suspect seals etc..
 
If you had a bad seal then you probaly increased the L mixture to compensate.. and that will contribuate to your problem.

If the L setting on a good carb is say 1.5 turns.. aways suspect seals etc..

Absolutely correct Andy. In the first part of my starting this thread i had mentioned that i turned the L screw out about two turns to get it to run at all. I never expected the seals, but i figured its easier to change the seals myself and it also cost less. Truth be told, it was a lucky guess on my part. I hack away at small engines in my spare time and learn as i go with the help from you guys. Thanks all.

Doc
 
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