Stihl 026 vs. 026 Pro

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i gotta get better with these searches, i coulda posted this a few days ago. as per Lakeside53-


If we're talking 026, NOT 260, there are other differences :

Mentioned : Decomp valve (nice if you're up a tree); Adjustable oiler, but not just adjustable, it ONLY oils when the chain is running. a very big plus is you leave the saw idling a lot.

Other:
Compensating carb, match air filter for carb, different clutch drum (wider mainly to drive the adjustable oiler, but dissipates heat better)

and, I believe the molded plastic handle first came out with the Pro but was on all 026 models after that time.
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i've read reports on this site where some 026's came with the adjustable oiler and even a cylinder with a blocked decomp hole. Stihl must have used whatever was on hand at times i guess.
 
Not entirely on topic but can a standard 026 be converted to Pro style oiling system? Neighbor gave me a running 026 because "It didn't cut well anymore." Replaced the blued bar / burned loop with a new bar/loop/drive hub and tuned the carb. He's impressed it runs that well again. I just wish I could make it quit pumping oil while it's idle and turn up the delivery just a tad while running.

Has this type of conversion been done before and is it feasible? Would I do better just to sell this one and buy another saw with the adjustable oiling system already installed?
 
Figured that was the case but asking wouldn't hurt. After cleaning out the oiling tank it does oil better than it did. Don't know what bar oil he was using but it looked like cold molasses coming out. I know why he burned up the bar.


Sad thing is he had over 20 loops hanging on the wall from this saw he'd acquired over 15 years. He kept taking them to the local mower shop that would sharpen the cutters but NEVER touched a raker! He mentioned after a chain was sharpened once or twice it just never cut right again. I grabbed my files and showed him you lower the rakers to .025" and it will cut again. That's when he gave me the saw and went and bought a new 260. I just need him to keep buying equipment and giving me his 'junk'.
 
i have a non-pro 0260 running a 20" bar with 3/8" chain. i have never felt like it needed more oil. i think you hit the problem with the old oil. wash the tank with diesel and let it sit for a little while, if you are still having problems.
 
I don't suppose the 026 plain jane has a tapped and plugged hole in order to simply install an compression release, do they? I have seen other cylinders, for example 360pro which may come with an optional plugged hole. Remove and replace with comp release if desired. That maybe was on aftermarket type parts, but still, pretty sure I have seen it.
Would drilling and tapping a hole be completely out of the question? reasonably speaking.
 
It would be less expensive to replace the cylinder with a Meteor unit that has a threaded hole for a decomp valve.
I have a several 026 saws and think a decomp on a 50cc saw is a sales fodder, rather than actual need.
 
I don't suppose the 026 plain jane has a tapped and plugged hole in order to simply install an compression release, do they? I have seen other cylinders, for example 360pro which may come with an optional plugged hole. Remove and replace with comp release if desired. That maybe was on aftermarket type parts, but still, pretty sure I have seen it.
Would drilling and tapping a hole be completely out of the question? reasonably speaking.
If the cylinder had the molded in boss on the cylinder head for the compression release then it would be easy enough but if not then it would require more expensive machining to remove cooling fins and provide a flat area to drill and tap for a compression release.
 

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