cedarshark
Addicted to ArboristSite
He must be single
Stihl 028 super troubles
- Thread starter Deane Hartford
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Yes, resist the urge to use the last tablespoon full of Dawn in the dishwasher....you willllll get caught for sure. FOAM!
fearofpavement
Trying them all
Sounds like the voice of experience?
kyle.kipple
ArboristSite Guru
Dishwasher works well, especially after she just left and was gone for 6 hours.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
kyle.kipple
ArboristSite Guru
And don't run a load if there is some to run afterwards. She will see you washed dishes and then know for sure you did wrong.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Deane Hartford
Super Lost
He must be single
You would be correct cedar. Single and free to do as I please here.
Thanks for the tips guys. They might come in handy some time.
Couldn't wait for all the parts to come in so I ran down to steal dealer today and picked up a new fuel and impulse line, half of the av mounts, new gasket for the oil pump and the seals for the crankshaft. I should be able to start assembly this weekend and get it up and running.
Quick question: What should I use on the crank seals for a grease, any old grease? I'm going to search it out, but figured I would ask here too. I also notice the spark plug line has some thin spots and one place where you can see a little wire. What can I get away with here, electrical tape, the heat shrink stuff or go new or ......?
Stihlofadeal64
Addicted to ArboristSite
You can use some mix oil around the sealing lips that touch the crank shaft. I've seen various builders use different kinds of grease though (the threads are out there)
You will need to use just a thin coat of sealer around the outer lips (the metal part that will engage the rims of your case). Some use Dirko, others use a liquid gasket
sealer that is ABSOLUTELY gas and oil resistant. On the spark plug wire, you should be able to pick up a piece of that at the dealer as well. If I was not able to find
it I'd just get a heat shrink and do your thang!
Happy Sawing!
You will need to use just a thin coat of sealer around the outer lips (the metal part that will engage the rims of your case). Some use Dirko, others use a liquid gasket
sealer that is ABSOLUTELY gas and oil resistant. On the spark plug wire, you should be able to pick up a piece of that at the dealer as well. If I was not able to find
it I'd just get a heat shrink and do your thang!
Happy Sawing!
Big_Wood
westcoast dweller
028's are some damn dependable saws that's for sure. i never thought i'd ever see one with cooked bearings but i got one on the shop floor right now with fried mains. like so bad that it is just inner and outer races on the PTO side. how it ran long enough to do that i don't know but this thread is giving me some motivation to break it down finally. the one i have here is only a wood boss though wish it was a super 
wish it was a super
Stihlofadeal64
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have a 028 right now that looks like its been worked to the bone. It still has a crap load of compression.
To me they are the work horse firewood saws of that generation. If I am not mistaken Stihl manufactured
the saw over a period of 20 years and in variations. The 028 super is the best model in the series. Hang on
to the saw even if you get a "3 saw plan".
To me they are the work horse firewood saws of that generation. If I am not mistaken Stihl manufactured
the saw over a period of 20 years and in variations. The 028 super is the best model in the series. Hang on
to the saw even if you get a "3 saw plan".
Deane Hartford
Super Lost
028's are some damn dependable saws that's for sure. i never thought i'd ever see one with cooked bearings but i got one on the shop floor right now with fried mains. like so bad that it is just inner and outer races on the PTO side. how it ran long enough to do that i don't know but this thread is giving me some motivation to break it down finally. the one i have here is only a wood boss though
Fix it up. How are the piston and cylinder on it? From what I have read on this site you could put in in the 46mm p/c and have a super. Might want to check on that though.
Thank you Stihlofadeal.
All my parts should be in friday. Saturday it could be up and running if I don't run into any problems.
Deane Hartford
Super Lost
Got home tonight and had some new parts waiting for me. I decided to go with a new piston and cylinder just in case the old cylinder is too messed up. I will be trying to save it to have on hand as a spare and I have to say the intake on the factory cylinder is much nicer. The rest of it seems about the same. I didn't order a new wrist pin bearing when I got the piston as I didn't know I would need one. Not sure if it is advisable to reuse the old one. I will be head to the local stihl dealer in the morning to see if they can take out the crank seals for me. I don't want to mess around with the little one on the fly wheel side. Carburetor rebuild kit. New gaskets for the cylinder and muffler. New impulse line and fuel line/filter are installed. Tank is back on the case with new av supports.
The new cylinder came with one bolt with a turned down head because the casting is thicker than the original. But I'm going to have to turn down another as there are only two holes the originals fit into. There is going to be a lot going on tomorrow.
The new cylinder came with one bolt with a turned down head because the casting is thicker than the original. But I'm going to have to turn down another as there are only two holes the originals fit into. There is going to be a lot going on tomorrow.
Deane Hartford
Super Lost
Now I have an actual question about the axial play where the connecting rod is on the crankshaft. There is no radial play that you can feel, but axial play is quite a bit. It will slide far enough to touch one lobe of the crank and almost touch the other. I also say that needle bearing isn't centered where it site on the crank. Is this normal or too much?
ETA: Did some looking on ebay at new/used cranks and cases, they all seemed to be this way. I''l just give her a go, but I don't want to toast this thing either.
ETA: Did some looking on ebay at new/used cranks and cases, they all seemed to be this way. I''l just give her a go, but I don't want to toast this thing either.
Deane Hartford
Super Lost
I got the saw put back back together and adjusted the carb to the baseline from the manual. read quite a few threads on here for saw tuning and though I would give it a try. Took it out to to the woods and looked for a fallen tree that wasn't laying in the dirt. Fired up the saw and gave the throttle a squeeze. Didn't sound off. So I started a cut with it and cut a few cookies. I thought it was running rich so I tinkered with the hi lo adjusters but didn't go crazy as I didn't want to toast my rebuilt saw. That was two days ago.
In the time that has passed I watched the tuning videos again and decided to give it another try. Went out tonight and found a downed birch. Started the saw and did one cut. to my ear it sounded rich like in the videos. So I turned the hi up to race and then quickly turned it back till it almost died from being to rich. Then adjusted it back to in between settings, but the power never came back. Just stayed doggy like it still rich. Figured great I just toasted my new old saw. Got back and took the muffler and plug out. Piston looked fine and so did cylinder. I felt I needed a better look so I pulled the cylinder off and still looked good. Very wet though and I don't know what that means. Here are pictures of what I saw. First pic is intake side.
I need some advice. I plan on putting it back together and pressure/vac testing it tomorrow, but that doesn't seem like a problem.
All the little specs on the piston came right off with a touch. Thought maybe the bearings decided to go, but everything still seems smooth.
In the time that has passed I watched the tuning videos again and decided to give it another try. Went out tonight and found a downed birch. Started the saw and did one cut. to my ear it sounded rich like in the videos. So I turned the hi up to race and then quickly turned it back till it almost died from being to rich. Then adjusted it back to in between settings, but the power never came back. Just stayed doggy like it still rich. Figured great I just toasted my new old saw. Got back and took the muffler and plug out. Piston looked fine and so did cylinder. I felt I needed a better look so I pulled the cylinder off and still looked good. Very wet though and I don't know what that means. Here are pictures of what I saw. First pic is intake side.
I need some advice. I plan on putting it back together and pressure/vac testing it tomorrow, but that doesn't seem like a problem.
All the little specs on the piston came right off with a touch. Thought maybe the bearings decided to go, but everything still seems smooth.
What else did you do to the saw? Rebuild the carb? replace the fuel/impulse lines? Crank seals? Base gasket? Please list all the parts you replaced. There are a lot of unknowns after the saw has been torn down and reassembled.
Stihlofadeal64
Addicted to ArboristSite
It is possible that the tune on the saw just needs to be tweaked by someone who does it all the time.
I really think you've done a great job with this thread, and with your assessments. Did you check
the compression on the saw? That is a figure that I would be interested in. Keep the information
coming. Your pictorial is very good.
I really think you've done a great job with this thread, and with your assessments. Did you check
the compression on the saw? That is a figure that I would be interested in. Keep the information
coming. Your pictorial is very good.
Deane Hartford
Super Lost
List of replaced parts: Cylinder, piston, impulse line, fuel line and filter, air filter, rebuilt carb so it has new metering lever (hit me last night that maybe this is the problem, maybe) spring, needle and screen. And other parts like the AV mounts and clutch springs. Really doesn't seem like much when I write it all down.
I didn't replace crank seals on the advice of a guy that runs a saw shop near me. I have put the saw on it's sides and let it sit that way. Didn't race up, but that still doesn't rule anything out. So obviously the crank bearings are old, but the shaft turns smoothly. Bearing for the for wrist pin was also reused, when I took the cylinder off the piston moves freely on the connecting rod.
If I get out of work in time tonight I plan on finding a pressure/vac tester, and will also try to get a compression test. I also want to test the electrical system. Work really gets in the way of saw building.
I didn't replace crank seals on the advice of a guy that runs a saw shop near me. I have put the saw on it's sides and let it sit that way. Didn't race up, but that still doesn't rule anything out. So obviously the crank bearings are old, but the shaft turns smoothly. Bearing for the for wrist pin was also reused, when I took the cylinder off the piston moves freely on the connecting rod.
If I get out of work in time tonight I plan on finding a pressure/vac tester, and will also try to get a compression test. I also want to test the electrical system. Work really gets in the way of saw building.
Deane Hartford
Super Lost
Thank you Stihl and everyone that has helped me in this thread. I left that out of the last post.
Now I haven't been able to check compression yet as none of the auto shops here have a tester that will work, but I bit the bullet and ordered one. It will be in tomorrow so expect numbers then.
Today I talked to an older guy who has done some logging in his time. After hearing what he had to say and do a bunch more reading here I decided to make some some adjustments. I won't get anywhere if I'm too scared to try anything. First on the list was taking the carb back apart and adjusting the metering lever. I found the numbers (.060-.070 or roughly 1/16") searching on this site. So I bent that some more. I also replaced the ( now the name escapes me) little aluminum cap on the metering side. Nothing back there. Reset the carb to 1.125 turns out on H&L instead of 1.25 since it seems to have been running very rich at the 1.25 settings. I also loosened up on the chain a touch as I think I had that a bit too tight. Then went back out to my downed tree and gave it another go. I think the bogging last time was a combination of the metering lever being off and flooding the cylinder with H being too rich. It just couldn't clear out, but that is all just novice speculation on my part.
Now I leaned up the Lo adjustment and the Hi adjustment. It seems to still be four stroking when wide open even under load. It drop backs to idle quickly when the trigger is let off, but sometimes is doggy when revving back up. Am I right in thinking the sometimes doggy rev up is a Lo Idle adjustment? Cut a few cookies and it really seemed to liven up over anything I have done so far. I got some really good shavings, not sawdust, with some an inch long or more. Saw seemed to get a bit stronger. Definitely the best it has run since it started back up, but I still think it needs a tuning by an experienced saw smith.
Got back tonight and pulled the plug and muffler to check everything out. Exhaust side of piston and cylinder still look new, and everything seems moist with oil/mix. Plug was whitish on the very end, how does it look? Another cool thing was that I had the sound of the saw and bugling elk to close out the day.
Now I haven't been able to check compression yet as none of the auto shops here have a tester that will work, but I bit the bullet and ordered one. It will be in tomorrow so expect numbers then.
Today I talked to an older guy who has done some logging in his time. After hearing what he had to say and do a bunch more reading here I decided to make some some adjustments. I won't get anywhere if I'm too scared to try anything. First on the list was taking the carb back apart and adjusting the metering lever. I found the numbers (.060-.070 or roughly 1/16") searching on this site. So I bent that some more. I also replaced the ( now the name escapes me) little aluminum cap on the metering side. Nothing back there. Reset the carb to 1.125 turns out on H&L instead of 1.25 since it seems to have been running very rich at the 1.25 settings. I also loosened up on the chain a touch as I think I had that a bit too tight. Then went back out to my downed tree and gave it another go. I think the bogging last time was a combination of the metering lever being off and flooding the cylinder with H being too rich. It just couldn't clear out, but that is all just novice speculation on my part.
Now I leaned up the Lo adjustment and the Hi adjustment. It seems to still be four stroking when wide open even under load. It drop backs to idle quickly when the trigger is let off, but sometimes is doggy when revving back up. Am I right in thinking the sometimes doggy rev up is a Lo Idle adjustment? Cut a few cookies and it really seemed to liven up over anything I have done so far. I got some really good shavings, not sawdust, with some an inch long or more. Saw seemed to get a bit stronger. Definitely the best it has run since it started back up, but I still think it needs a tuning by an experienced saw smith.
Got back tonight and pulled the plug and muffler to check everything out. Exhaust side of piston and cylinder still look new, and everything seems moist with oil/mix. Plug was whitish on the very end, how does it look? Another cool thing was that I had the sound of the saw and bugling elk to close out the day.
Deane Hartford
Super Lost
Finally got around to testing the saw. Compression was not as high as I had thought it might be with new internals, 145psi. It held a vacuum fine.
