Stihl 029 - clutch drum replacement - part question?

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JEG in Raleigh

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First-timer here. I have a Stihl 029 that needs the clutch replaced, and after reading posts on this forum, I realize I also need to replace the clutch drum with integral spur sprocket. I've been on Bailey's looking for a replacement drum and they have an Oregon part that looks like the original part. But, they also have another Oregon part that they list as a replacement for the 029 that is a splined rim and drum. That saw model never came with a splined rim. From what I have read on this forum, I would like to convert to a splined rim, if possible. Is this done? Are aftermarket manufacturers producing splined rim drums that are replacements for the older spur sprocket drums? I want to make sure it will work before I go ahead and buy it. Thanks.
 

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First-timer here. I have a Stihl 029 that needs the clutch replaced, and after reading posts on this forum, I realize I also need to replace the clutch drum with integral spur sprocket. I've been on Bailey's looking for a replacement drum and they have an Oregon part that looks like the original part. But, they also have another Oregon part that they list as a replacement for the 029 that is a splined rim and drum. That saw model never came with a splined rim. From what I have read on this forum, I would like to convert to a splined rim, if possible. Is this done? Are aftermarket manufacturers producing splined rim drums that are replacements for the older spur sprocket drums? I want to make sure it will work before I go ahead and buy it. Thanks.
Get the rim setup it will work

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Why are you replacing the clutch?
I've had the saw for 23 years. I got it when a hurricane blew through and downed 18 trees in our yard. After that, I had used it sparingly until we moved to a new property with 11 acres. I've been clearing deadfall out of our woods and had a couple of 24" diameter, 100' tall oaks blow down in when the hurricanes hit the NC coast a couple of years ago. I've been using the saw every day for about a month, and the clutch is now slipping pretty badly. Ashamed to say, I hadn't done much PM on it the whole time I've owned it, but I am now. I didn't know much about maintaining a chainsaw, but I've been reading forum posts and realize there are things beyond the spark plug, air filter, bar and chain that should be maintained. I realize now that the sprocket on the drum is pretty worn, so I'm changing that too, along with the clutch. The chain oiler hasn't been consistent either, and I have that turned up to maximum lubrication....so I'm going to replace the gear that drives that when I replace the clutch.

After posting the question about the drum, I found one piece of info on that Oregon drum that disqualifies it for me. It is for a chain with a 0.375 pitch and my chain has a 0.325 pitch, so I'm going to have to go back to the old spur gear-type drum.
 
How is everything in Raleigh? My daughter and son-in-law live there. If your bar is worn pretty badly, now would be the time to change everything over to .375. If your bar is still in good shape, then I would stay with .325. The 029 should have plenty of grunt to pull a .375, the .325 might be just a tad smoother, the .375 will take a little bigger bite and may cut a touch faster.

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How is everything in Raleigh? My daughter and son-in-law live there. If your bar is worn pretty badly, now would be the time to change everything over to .375. If your bar is still in good shape, then I would stay with .325. The 029 should have plenty of grunt to pull a .375, the .325 might be just a tad smoother, the .375 will take a little bigger bite and may cut a touch faster.

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It's been beautiful here the past week, but we're hunkered down because of the virus. That gives me plenty of time to dink around in the woods. I just replaced my bar and chain, so I'm committed to the 0.325 for awhile. At some point, it probably won't make sense to put money into a 20 year old saw that isn't a true commercial grade saw. It would be nice to have a bit more hp and a 24" bar when I need it, for what I need to do around my property.
 
You can just replace rim sprocket on the drum. They make a .325 and a 3/8 sprocket for the that same drum. orf111891 .325x8, orf11892 .325x7, orf18720 .375(3/8)x7. Depending on who you are buying it from mabe they would swap it out. There are other aftermarket drums on ebay that sell .325 Rims and sprockets
 
With the rim and sprocket you can switch it back to 3/8 and run a 24" 3/8 bar with a skip chain. Not ideal but the saw will spin it.
 
Put up a pic of your old sprocket and chain,
please.
Here are pics of the saw, chain and drum. I'm using a 20" bar, which is the max for the 029 and yellow chain.
 

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It's been beautiful here the past week, but we're hunkered down because of the virus. That gives me plenty of time to dink around in the woods. I just replaced my bar and chain, so I'm committed to the 0.325 for awhile. At some point, it probably won't make sense to put money into a 20 year old saw that isn't a true commercial grade saw. It would be nice to have a bit more hp and a 24" bar when I need it, for what I need to do around my property.
Yeah, my daughter is working from home and taking care of their 5 month old baby girl. Son-in-law is a Raleigh firefighter so he has to go to work.
I agree with keeping the .325 setup if you have a new bar and chain. The rim sprocket for the clutch drum setup should be available in either pitch. You can try Amazon if Bailey's doesn't have it. Or just buy the .325 rim separately on eBay.

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You can just replace rim sprocket on the drum. They make a .325 and a 3/8 sprocket for the that same drum. orf111891 .325x8, orf11892 .325x7, orf18720 .375(3/8)x7. Depending on who you are buying it from mabe they would swap it out. There are other aftermarket drums on ebay that sell .325 Rims and sprockets
I want to understand the mechanics of how the rim sprockets work and I don't understand how the pitch correlates to the sprocket. Could you please answer the following questions:

1. Is a rim designed for a 0.375" pitch chain a slightly larger diameter than one designed for a 0.325" pitch chain?
2. And what is the function of the little "teeth" of the sprocket itself? Do those catch the bottom of the chain?
3. Is a 0.375" pitch chain also slightly taller than a 0.325" chain (which would make sense to me if the rim is a slightly larger diameter?

Thanks
 
Combined with running a shot sprocket, makes it hard to turn.
A new chain and sprocket, and your saw will be happy.
Well, the chain is actually sharp. I'm using a Timberline sharpener and I touch it up after each tank of gas and it's sharp. But, I have been cutting up a some red and white oak trees that are 18"-24" in diameter, and I have been cutting them up into 16" lengths for a friend to haul away and split.

I have read posts on this forum about how to tell when your sprocket is worn out, but I don't understand what I am supposed to be measuring to make that determination. Am I supposed to use calipers? Please describe exactly what I am to measure and what device I should be using to do so. Thanks.
 
I want to understand the mechanics of how the rim sprockets work and I don't understand how the pitch correlates to the sprocket. Could you please answer the following questions:

1. Is a rim designed for a 0.375" pitch chain a slightly larger diameter than one designed for a 0.325" pitch chain?
2. And what is the function of the little "teeth" of the sprocket itself? Do those catch the bottom of the chain?
3. Is a 0.375" pitch chain also slightly taller than a 0.325" chain (which would make sense to me if the rim is a slightly larger diameter?

Thanks
.375 aka 3/8" has longer chain links so the drivers are farther apart than
.325. does that make any sense?

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