Stihl 031 points adjustment

[Axlerod74]

Can anybody walk me through this process without a dial gauge or setting cam (or is it possible)?

 

[Axlerod74]

Can anybody walk me through this process with out a dial gauge or setting cam (or is it possible)?

Can anyone confirm breaker point clearance.............. .016?

 

[RAMROD48]

If you were closer I would let you use ours...

 

[lcso10]

Take to two plastic plugs out of flywheel. Set flywheel back on crankshaft and there you have your cam. You can adjust your points from there with a small screwdriver.

 

[MnSam]

If you have a ohmmeter/multimeter you can adjust the points by using the timing marks on the flywheel and case. You'll have to remove the coil bolts and slip a sheet of paper under it to keep the coil from grounding on the case, then put an ohmmeter lead on the kill switch wire and another to ground. Adjust the points accordingly, will take a little trial and error but worked good for me. I removed my flywheel to ease point adjustment, then aligned it back onto the key without tightening it down to check my adjustments.

Edit: the saw I did this on did not have the adjustment windows. Point gap should be .012 - .016.

 

[Axlerod74]

Mine does have the adjustment windows. What reading am I looking for on the Ohmmeter?

 

[MnSam]

Zero (or near zero) ohms when points are closed, infinity when points open. Your looking for the transition from zero to infinity to correspond with the lined up timing marks. An audible continuity setting on an ohmmeter is nice for this.

 

[Axlerod74]

If you have a ohmmeter/multimeter you can adjust the points by using the timing marks on the flywheel and case. You'll have to remove the coil bolts and slip a sheet of paper under it to keep the coil from grounding on the case, then put an ohmmeter lead on the kill switch wire and another to ground. Adjust the points accordingly, will take a little trial and error but worked good for me. I removed my flywheel to ease point adjustment, then aligned it back onto the key without tightening it down to check my adjustments.

Edit: the saw I did this on did not have the adjustment windows. Point gap should be .012 - .016.

Thanks for the helpful info. The saw would not run for more than about 3 seconds. Poped out the inspection windows and the points were not opening at all. My first gap adjustment may be a little wide but the saw runs now, it has a slight miss at top end and once it warms up, it will not continue to idle if I let off the throttle. Any more on the idle screw and the chain turns at idle. Carb adjustments are good, but I need to fine tune the gap with feeler gauges. This is my first points ignition and it has been an intresting experience. I love the sound and feel of this old saw!

 

[Axlerod74]

The adjustment process is pretty fickle........ .006 clearance and it won't hold idle, .011 clearance and the snap back on the pull rope will nearly break your fingers, .015 is back to ilding rough....:bang:

I'm guessing .013 clearance on the breaker points would be about perfect but dang hard get it there.

 

[Axlerod74]

I finally got the breaker point clearance to .013 The saw is finally idling better but will only open up to full power occasionally. I'll have to try the ohmmeter trick. If the transition from infinity to zero does not correspond with the lining up of the marks on the case and flywheel...........then what??? Adjust stator plate??

Fish.............where are you?????