stihl 038av Muff Mod

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hh1341

hh1341

ArboristSite Member
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Feb 10, 2009
Messages
59
Location
Honey Harbour, Ontario, Canada
Hi All,

I have an old 038av that might benefit from a muffler mod.

I searched some, but didn't find my model muffler.
Any advice would be appreciated.


View attachment 90980
View attachment 90979

The area of the exhaust port at the piston is 355 sq mm
The area of the muffler outlet is 121 sq mm (aprox 33% of inlet)

She is just a tad restricted

80% would be 284 sq mm

Looks like a 19 mm ID pipe would do (3/4" ID)

What say you all?

Carl
 
Mad Professor
Joined
Jul 2, 2007
Messages
18,290
Location
North East USA
Hi All,

I have an old 038av that might benefit from a muffler mod.

I searched some, but didn't find my model muffler.
Any advice would be appreciated.


View attachment 90980
View attachment 90979

The area of the exhaust port at the piston is 355 sq mm
The area of the muffler outlet is 121 sq mm (aprox 33% of inlet)

She is just a tad restricted

80% would be 284 sq mm

Looks like a 19 mm ID pipe would do (3/4" ID)

What say you all?

Carl

See if you can find a triple port 038 M II muffler.
 
Saw Dr.

Saw Dr.

Junk Collector
Joined
Oct 20, 2007
Messages
5,986
Location
Temple, GA
There are ALOT of 038 Super mufflers coming across greedbay. They are 2 port. One port is on the right side, and the other is in the front cover. It is very easy to add the 3rd port on the left side and make a MAG muffler if you cannot find one. You can even put the OEM screen in if you like. I have never had a "straight" 038, so I cannot suggest what to do with that one. It looks like the front cover on yours is solid.
 
stap2211

stap2211

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Messages
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Location
Yreka, CA
Your math seems off

If you close your original port, then 19mm is right on at 284 square mm ... which gives you the 80% of total port area you calculated.

If you keep your original port. use a tube of around 14 mm i.d. to get the total exhaust area you want. Remember that screens will reduce effective exhaust area by anywhere from 5 to 20 percent (or more if they get sooted). If you keep your openings screened, you might bump up your total area 10% or so.
 
hh1341

hh1341

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Joined
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Messages
59
Location
Honey Harbour, Ontario, Canada
If you close your original port, then 19mm is right on at 284 square mm ... which gives you the 80% of total port area you calculated.

If you keep your original port. use a tube of around 14 mm i.d. to get the total exhaust area you want. Remember that screens will reduce effective exhaust area by anywhere from 5 to 20 percent (or more if they get sooted). If you keep your openings screened, you might bump up your total area 10% or so.

Yes......

I was going to close the original port, actually mount the new tube where the original slots are.

Think I will just remove the screen.

Thanks for these replies

Carl
 
hh1341

hh1341

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Messages
59
Location
Honey Harbour, Ontario, Canada
Measurements

nice welding. How did you measure the areas?

Thanks,

The exhaust port is a somewhat tapered front to back so I had to take the measurement in at the piston end, however it is rectangular, so I used inside callipers.

Hight X width = area........... 25.4mm X 13.97mm = 355sq mm

To find the 80% of that area divide by 5 and multiply the answer by 4....equals 284sq mm

To find the pipe ID......divide 284 by 3.14.....then find the square root of the result. this resultant answer is the inside radius of the pipe needed.
Double that answer to get inside diameter of the pipe needed.

284/3.14 = 90.4
Sqrt of 90.4 = 9.5
2 X 9.5 = 19mm...........convert to inches if you like (approx .75")
This is simply the reverse of finding the area of a circle.... Pi X radius squared.

This is based on closing the original outlet ports on the muffler.

Carl
 
hh1341

hh1341

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Joined
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Messages
59
Location
Honey Harbour, Ontario, Canada
In the first photo of the inside of the front cover...

Nice welds. Just wondering why you have so much pipe inside the muffler?:confused:

Gives more support and allows me to slide a longer insert in and out "a la" a trombone.

It's my feeble attempt to find a tuned length.

If none of that works out, I'll cut it off.

Just playin' around, is all.

Carl
 
Last edited:
hh1341

hh1341

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Joined
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Messages
59
Location
Honey Harbour, Ontario, Canada
Ah, this is what I was wondering - so you think that was accurite enough?

Sure, this is all ballpark, anyway.

There seems to be quite a bit of leeway.

I like this insert idea, it lets you go from large to small without re-work.
Start large, use inserts, test, when you like it....:) make the rest that size. It's sort of a test bed.

Welding this thin stuff is a pain.
Make sure you get it good and clean before welding or brazing.
The process doesn't like carbon or paint.

Carl
 
Last edited:
harrygrey382

harrygrey382

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Sure, this is all ballpark, anyway.

There seems to be quite a bit of leeway.

I like this insert idea, it lets you go from large to small without re-work.
Start large, use inserts, test, when you like it....:) make the rest that size. It's sort of a test bed.

Welding this thin stuff is a pain.
Make sure you get it good and clean before welding or brazing.
The process doesn't like carbon or paint.

Carl
Yeah, doesn't sound bad. I should be a bit more patient! I'm going to mod an 038FB muffler to get the best out of a mag jug - so that'll be quite a bit of opening.
Hope my welding is up to it, should be I think. Going to use a mig, so will make sure everything is nice and clean.
 

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