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Stihl 046 Fuel Tank Crack

clint53

clint53

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People give saws away for a reason.
If this saw didn't have such a good piston and cylinder I wouldn't be replacing all the missing parts.

Would JB Plastic Weld be good to try and fix this or should I just order a new fuel tank?
20210112_214154.jpg
 
atpchas

atpchas

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If this is for your own use, give the JB a try (and let us know how it worked out). I've not used that product but have used Seal-All (https://www.amazon.com/Seal-All-380011-Adhesive/dp/B0000AXYZG) with very good results and would expect JB Plastic Weld to be similarly successful.
One concern - the crack appears to be at a place that will be highly stressed if the bar gets pinched and the user tries to yank hard to get it loose. Not sure any repair goo will stand up to that.
 
clint53

clint53

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If this is for your own use, give the JB a try (and let us know how it worked out). I've not used that product but have used Seal-All (https://www.amazon.com/Seal-All-380011-Adhesive/dp/B0000AXYZG) with very good results and would expect JB Plastic Weld to be similarly successful.
One concern - the crack appears to be at a place that will be highly stressed if the bar gets pinched and the user tries to yank hard to get it loose. Not sure any repair goo will stand up to that.
Yes, my saw. The good thing is it's on top of the tank and only leaked when turned on the side
I'll only be out of the cost of the JB weld if it doesn't work. So I'm going to give it a try.
I'm going the clean and rough it up before applying the JB.
 
cookies

cookies

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i have used a product called quicksteel to repair cracks in the past on radiator tanks, sand with 60-80 grit for added grip using the deep scratches and drill both ends of the crack to stop growth then really clean/degrease using a brush etc in the crack and the sanded area then dry well. Push the putty into the crack like your trying to force it through. That stuff dries hard in a hour and is sandable/ drill and tappable in 24 hrs, working time is about 5 minutes, I would also use a tank sealer inside the tank
 
Jasonrkba

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The putty jb weld makes works well. To be honest its the only repair on a cracked tank I have been satisfied with. Sand all the previous repair off as best you can and clean it with carb cleaner. Getting it clean is imperative and press the putty into the crack.
 
clint53

clint53

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i have used a product called quicksteel to repair cracks in the past on radiator tanks, sand with 60-80 grit for added grip using the deep scratches and drill both ends of the crack to stop growth then really clean/degrease using a brush etc in the crack and the sanded area then really dry push the putty into the crack like your trying to force it through. That stuff dries hard in a hour and is sandable/ drill and tappable in 24 hrs, working time is about 5 minutes, I would also use a tank sealer inside the tank
But isn't that for metal tanks? I had considered drilling a hole at each end of the crack.
 
cookies

cookies

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The epoxy putty i mentioned bonds to plastic just fine if prepped properly, that company makes more than version of the putty now. There is another thread on this site that mentions plastic welding, pvc glue and other ways to seal a plastic tank crack
 
clint53

clint53

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The epoxy putty i mentioned bonds to plastic just fine if prepped properly, that company makes more than version of the putty now. There is another thread on this site that mentions plastic welding, pvc glue and other ways to seal a plastic tank crack
Thanks. I went and got some today.
I'm gonna clean it with acetone well and then use the Dremel to rough it up. Then acetone again. Then the JB putty.
 
trains

trains

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I would go the plastic weld route first, clean well and you can use a soldering iron, but dont let it get too hot, or it will char, burn the plastic.
Trim off some excess fuel tank plastic from somewhere else if you need filler.
 
cookies

cookies

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i feel bad, i forgot to recommend putting a light vacuum on the tank when gluing then when dry apply 10psi pressure and vac to test your seal, I might be wrong but I think the sealer named cream works on plastic gas tanks, someone correct me if i am wrong.
 
clint53

clint53

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When it’s cured, use a screwdriver and try and remove some of that excess just to confirm it’s bonded. I have never had any luck with gluing / epoxying Stihls glass reenforced polymer.
The info said it cures in 4 to 6 hours. I left it setting next to the woodstove overnight.
The excess in areas where I had not roughed up with the Dermal came of easy when I scraped it with my pocket knife.
The roughed up spots, it's really stuck well.
Now, what's going to happen when gas gets to it? We shall see.
 
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